
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



.§1 



OCT 9 



To My Friend 

Mxbs lEmma 1G, ifntarfc, 

This Book is Gratefully and Affectionately 
Dedicated. 



A Word to the Reader. 



TWTOTHING was farther from the mind of the writer, 
when the Cruise to the Orient was made, than 
the publishing of a book. 

His purpose, at that time, was the careful study of 
those subjects which can be considered to the best ad- 
vantage by the student as he stands upon the ground with 
which they are so inseparably connected; therefore, for 
his own profit, a correct record of each day's happen- 
ings was kept by the author. 

After his return home, he was prevailed upon to de- 
liver a course of lectures to his people on successive 
Lord's Day evenings. 

The next request from his friends was for the publica- 
tion of the substance of those addresses in the daily and 
weekly issues of the home papers. 

Last of all, many of those whose judgment he most 
highly valued urged the importance of putting the let- 
ters in more permanent form. Therefore, responsibility 
for the placing of this little volume in your hands must 
be shared by the author's friends. 

Throughout this work the only attempt at originality 
has been to treat of the subjects as they impressed them- 
selves upon the writer amidst the sights and scenes of 



A WORD TO THE READER. 



those lands in which universal interest converges; and 
his sincere desire has been that he might share with 
others the priceless benefits of that memorable pilgrim- 
age. 

From first to last, the object of this unpretentious book 
has been, not so much the entertainment as the lasting 
profit of the reader. And if these pages shall be the 
means of enhancing your interest in the reverent study 
of the Word of God, the writer will be abundantly satis- 
fied. J. C. O. 



Contents 



CHAPTER I. 
From Texas to New York, - - 9 

CHAPTER II. 
From New York to Funchal, ------ 17 

CHAPTER III. 
From New York to Funchal, ------ 26 

CHAPTER IV. 
Madeira, - -- -- -- -- -- -- -34 

CHAPTER V. 
Gibraltar, - -- -- -- - 42 

CHAPTER VI. 
Algiers, - -- -- -- -- 50 

CHAPTER VII. 
Malta, - -- -- -- -- -- -- -59 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Athens, - -- -- -- -- -- -- -67 

CHAPTER IX. 
Constantinople, -------- - - - 7;, 



6 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER X. 
Smyrna and Ephesus, - -- -- -- --84 

CHAPTER XL 
Patmo, Rhodes and Baalbek, - - - - - 91 

CHAPTER XII 
Damascus and Beyrout, - -- - - -- -100 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Haifa to Sea of Galilee, ------- 109 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Cana, Nazareth and Samaria, ----- 118 

CHAPTER XV. 
Shechem, Jacob's Well, to Holy City, - - - 126 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Jericho and Gilgal, - -- -- -- --135 

CHAPTER XVII. 
Dead Sea and Jordan, - -- - 143 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
The Holy City, - - - - - - - - - - 151 

CHAPTER XIX. 
The Holy City, - - i6i 

CHAPTER X;X. 
Olivet and Calvary, - -- -- -- --170 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAPTER XXL 
World's Fourth S. S. Convention, 182 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Bethlehem and Joppa, - -- -- -- - 188 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
Alexandria to Cairo, --------197 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
The Great Pyramid and the Sphinx, - - - 207 

CHAPTER XXV. 
Heliopolis and Memphis, ------- 216 

CHAPTER XXVI. 
Egypt's Capital and History, ------ 226 

CHAPTER XXVII. 
Voyage to Naples, - -- -- -- -- - 236 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
Rome, - -- -- -- -- -- -- - 244 

CHAPTER XXIX. 
Rome, - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 253 

CHAPTER XXX. 
Pompeii, - -- -- -- -- -- -- - 2 6r 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT 



CHAPTER I. 
From Texas to New York. 

ON the second day of March, I left Taylor to join the 
Oriental cruise, booked to leave New York only six 
days later. My ticket read over the International and 
Great Northern via St. Louis. This popular route, fa- 
miliar to most travellers to the Northeast, I found very 
interesting. Our train arrived at St. Louis over one hour 
la'te, causing us to miss the eastbound Wabash train for 
Buffalo. I was not sorry to spend the night in the "Fair 
City," for I could then have the trip to Detroit in the 
daytime. 

At nine o'clock next morning, I boarded the "Wabash 
First Links in 'No. 4." Here I wish to say that I have 
the chain, never seen more faultless service than that 
rendered by this great system. 

How majestic was the "Father of Waters," as we pulled 
up to the west bank to the railway bridge ! 

The fine farming lands of Illinois were a constant 
pleasure to me. I was specially delighted with the river 
from which this road takes its name. For so many miles 
it kept us company, and entertained us with its rapid 
current, and ledges of ice on each bank, thrown up by 
the high water, resulting from the very recent rains. 
The tall, lithe, graceful, strong and stately sycamores 
along this beautiful stream, reminded me constantly of 
the very complimentary and happy sobriquet of Indiana's 
favorite son, "The Tall Sycamore of the Wabas'h." 



io CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



I shall never forget the perfect exhibit of natural ma- 
sonry at Willi amsport. The place is noted for its unex- 
celled quarries. The very finest advertisement that any 
quarry could have, is the one referred to in the form of 
strata seen there, as if laid out mathematically by the 
Master Builder. I have seen nothing more perfect, not 
even along the Rio Grande or the Saguenay. 

The city in Illinois that impressed me most was Dan- 
ville. Just above Williamsport, you cross the river to 
Attica. But the most attractive city in the land is, per- 
haps, Lafayette, farther up the Wabash. It is situated 
on both sides of the river, and is perfectly drained, while 
its feet are laved in the clear waters of this fascinating 
stream. Another feature I shall long remember, is the 
graceful manner in which the beautiful 'homes rise above 
one another, upon successive terraces on the east and west 
banks of this enchanting river. Logansport is another 
important city on this line. It is noted for its foundries 
and barrel factories. Peru is perforated with wells. One 
sees a forest of derricks all over that territory, it having 
been a productive oil field a few years since. 

At Butler, the road crosses the Ohio State line. One 
who observes, sees the difference between the sister States 
of Illinois and Indiana. The contrast might be expressed 
by the statement that the one is a farming, while the 
other is a dairying section. In Illinois, one is charmed 
with the splendid, rich farms; in Indiana, one is equally 
pleased with the well-built, attractive, large barns and 
neat homesteads. 

The junction point of the St. Louis and Chicago 
branches of the Wabash system is Montpelier. 

After a most pleasant, profitable day, I reached Detroit 
in time for a refreshing night's rest. 

Like an industrious man, I rose at half-past five. I 



FROM TEXAS TO NEW YORK. 



ii 



was astonished at its being so light at that hour, till I 
remembered that, in longitude, I was nearing the seventy- 
fifth meridian. After breakfast I started out to see the 
wonderful Detroit River. It is a magnificent stream. Its 
waters are clear as crystal, and its current very swift. 
It is about one mile wide, twenty-eight miles long, and 
forty feet deep. The trains are ferried across in trans- 
ports. I was greatly pleased with the city of Detroit. 
Its character sustains its reputation as being a very solid, 
progressive city. I shall always remember the crunch- 
ing, crashing ice panorama, as it was borne along by the 
resistless current of the mighty river. 

The carrying capacity of the great transports is aston- 
ishing. The entire passenger train was put on board and 
taken across the river, whose current is twelve miles an 
hour, at Detroit. 

I was much interested in the ride for miles along Lake 
St. Clair, which was frozen solid. Ice-boats were running 
in all directions. These boats 'are equipped with three 
steel runners and a sail. 

Throughout Canada, everything was covered with snow 
and ice, and hauling was being done on sleds, while the 
jingle of sleigh-bells made the whole country merry. I 
noticed at Thomasville there were evidences of a great 
oil deposit. The derricks were about as plentiful as at 
Peru, Indiana. The chief industry of this part of Canada 
is lumbering. The logging is done in the winter, when 
the snow and ice make the hauling a comparatively easy 
matter. 

Chatham, St. Thomas and Cayuga are attractive cities 
along this road. From St. Thomas on to Niagara, On- 
tario, the country is well drained and even quite pic- 
turesque. At nine p. M. we arrived at Niagara Falls, 
where I spent two nights and a day. 



12 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



The next day, being the Sabbath, I spent in attending 
divine services, morning and evening, and in worshipping 
God, through communing with him in the temple of na- 
ture, by observing his handiwork. At the First Presby- 
terian Church, where I worshipped, I was gratefully im- 
pressed with the genuine Christian hospitality shown me, 
by those who were not forgetful to entertain the stranger. 
I determined to spend the day alone, "near to nature's 
heart." After breakfast I went directly to look at the 
falls from the American side. I first went to Prospect 
Point. Here the huge mountain of frozen mist rose in 
all of its awful grandeur. Thence I walked up to the 
stone bridge leading to the main island. It was difficult 
to realize that this was the same place that I had seen 
several times before, in the open season. I passed to Luna 
Island, and from point to point on Goat Island, almost 
speechless. Never do I remember having been so im- 
pressed with the almightiness of God. 

With wonderful impressiveness did the first verse of 
the Holy Scriptures come to me then and there : "In the 
beginning God created the heaven and the earth." I con- 
tinued my silent walk to the point nearest Horseshoe 
Falls. Thence I skirted the island, and crossed the fas- 
cinating little bridges linking the Three Sisters. Along 
much of my slippery path I crept with great caution, for 
a misstep, or loss of footing, might have proven fatal in 
many places. From the Three Sisters I enjoyed a splen- 
did view of the rapids on both sides of the island, above 
the cataract. There the ice was dashing, by 
Niagara in ^ m ilKon tons, with a momentum that 

Fetters of Ice. 

would seem fabulous. A large part ot 
Niagara was frozen solid! This you could hardly im- 
agine, when you had looked at the fearful current in the 
summer-time. Circumstances were peculiarly favorable, 



FROM TEXAS TO NEW YORK. 13 



for the past winter had been' the coldest within a period 
of thirty-two years. It had been my ambition to see the 
greatest cataract in the world in the grasp of the winter 
king. I saw it, and was happy. 

Any attempt to describe this ramble would be incom- 
plete without a reference to the dense forest of birch, 
beech, ash, elm, oak, maple, cedar, poplar, pine, larch and 
chestnut. I was delighted with a little oblong red berry. 
It was peculiarly welcome in the midst of the snow and 
ice that abounded everywhere. The sweetest little sur- 
prise came when I heeded the sign, "To the Spring." I 
fully expected it to* be frozen tight and fast, too. But 
when I came to it, I found it as gracious and hospitable 
as if it had been the month of June. I never relished a 
drink of water more than that one. 

Before leaving the island I turned aside to examine a 
strange freak of nature: a limb joined two cedar trees, 
several feet apart, running through the fork of a third 
tree, standing between the Siamese twins. Thence I re- 
crossed the stone bridge to the city of Niagara Falls. 

After dinner I walked over the Cantilever bridge to the 
Canada side. I went by the inclined path to the "Maid 
of the Mist Landing." From that point I walked across 
the ice gorge and climbed 'the "Mountain of Mist." It 
seemed so strange to one who' had crossed the same place 
in a bo'at, when the river was such a swelling tide that the 
boat tossed like a cork upon its heaving bosom. 

After crossing to the Canada side on the ice again, I 
trudged down to the great whirlpool, stopping frequently, 
both going and coming, to look at the leaping, seething, 
foaming, thundering rapids above the whirlpool. On re- 
turning, I prolonged my walk to the Horseshoe Falls, on 
the Ontario side. Thence I could see the falls and the 
rapids above them, as the roaring waters were trans- 



14 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



formed into spray in an instant. The column of vapor, 
at times, would rise to a height of three or four hundred 
feet; and if the wind happened to be blowing in the 
wrong direction, the chances were that you would be en- 
veloped in a cold, wet veil. There, too, I had a fine view 
of the gorge, the ice-bridge and the mountains of spray 
under the cataracts, on both sides. 

There are three bridges across the awful chasm, which 
is more than two hundred feet in depth. Two of these 
bridges are railway structures. One of the railway 
bridges has also a lower bridge, for walking and driving. 
These railway bridges are controlled by the Michigan 
Central and Grand Trunk systems, respectively. The 
third, the Cantilever, is used for street-cars, drives and 
walks. The span of the Cantilever is nearly eight hun- 
dred feet. This bridge is nearest the falls. 

Niagara, Ontario-, has a population of six thousand, 
while Niagara, N. Y., has twenty-two thousand. I re- 
turned to the United States for supper, after having made 
more than the traditional Sabbath day's journey. After 
returning from church, and writing a letter home, I was 
fatigued enough to appreciate a good night's rest. 

On Monday morning, I rose at six and hurried to the 
New York Central station. There I purchased a ticket 
for the fast train for New York. At 6 : 48 our train was 
called, and we were off, up the Niagara, to Buffalo, on 
Lake Erie. There we had to change cars, and I had a 
cup of coffee that reminded me of home. 

I soon boarded the New York train, which is one of 
the very finest in the world. For some distance she ran 
at the rate of ninety miles per hour. A run of twenty-six 
miles was made in twenty minutes. For a solid hour, a 
mile a minute was covered. Although the rate of speed 
was so high, I could write with ease as the cars slipped 



FROM TEXAS TO NEW YORK. 15 



over the rails. All tifaie way from Niagara to New York, 
the snow and ice covered everything. Niagara and Erie 
were frozen over, -so were the Mohawk and the Hudson, 
so that double teams were being driven across them on 
the ice. 

Along this route lie some splendid cities, as Rochester, 
Syracuse, Utica, Schenectady and Albany. There is 
much that is grand in the landscape, throughout the entire 
journey. Especially is this true of the hills toward the 
South, and the scenery along the Mohawk and the his- 
toric Hudson. 

I was intensely interested in the ice harvesting clown 
the Hudson. Hundreds of ice-houses are filled and closed 
for summer. One thing that was very attractive to me, 
was the ice-boats, which appeared on the Hudson in fleets. 

In due time, we arrived at the Grand Central station, 
New York City. I went at once to the Broadway Cen- 
tral Hotel, where I found letters awaiting me. I found 
a large crowd of tourists at the Broadway Central, as 
that was headquarters for the cruisers till the time of the 
sailing of the Grosser Kurfuerst. 

On the morning of the 8th of March, I completed my 
shopping in preparation for the long sea voyage. Promi- 
nent among these little purchases was a good steamer 
rug, as I knew the value of such an article. At 12 : 30, 
I left the hotel for Hoboken. It was a great press from 
there to the steamer. 

On reaching the vessel, I found all arrangements, to 
the last detail, complete. Just after going aboard, I found 
W. L. Walker, a friend of my youth, C. A. Oliver, a 
Princeton school-mate, and C. O. Martindale, whom I 
had examined for licensure and ordination. I also saw 
E. M. Fergusson, an old Princeton class-mate, and Dr. 
Wilson Phraner and Dr. Jessup, both venerable gentle- 



16 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 

men, the one, a young man at five and eighty, and the 
other, a missionary for forty-eight years in Beyrout, 
Syria. Dr. Jessup was returning, with his devoted wife 
and daughter, to his life-long work. Before sailing, I 
had time to mail my souvenir list of passengers, some 
souvenir cards and my illustrated itinerary, to the home 
folks. 



CHAPTER II. 



From New York to Funchal. 

AT the appointed hour, the captain issued the com- 
mand, and the Grosser Kurfuerst loosed her 
hawsers, and we put out to sea. Our gallant ship was 
a thing of beauty as she steamed down the harbor, be- 
decked with hundreds of flags, showing every color of 
the rainbow. These ensigns were strung on cables, unit- 
ing the two great masts with the bow and stern, respec- 
tively, and joining the masts together. These decorations 
constitute the steamer's "glad clothes," or gala attire. 

The start was full of interest. There was a display 
of pocket linen, that suggested a brisk flurry in a snow- 
storm, on board, answering to a like demon- 
Piierims sail for station on the piers and on neighboring 

the Holy *, , 

Land. steamers, where there were thousands wav- 

ing "bon voyage" to their friends departing 
for the far East. Our good ship steamed through the 
magnificent harbor, under the bright light of the after- 
noon sun. 

It had been twenty years since I had embarked from 
this same pier at Hoboken. The vessel then was the noble 
but ill-fated Elba, of the same line, the "Nord Deutscher 
Lloyd." It will be remembered that the Elba was rammed 
by a Caithness packet steamer, in the North Sea. It was 
black night, and she went to the bottom, with ail on board 
except one woman, who floated on a life-preserver raft, 
till picked up by some craft that happened to be passing, 



i8 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



thirty minutes after this awful catastrophe. The Scotch 
vessel was never seen, having gone down with the 
lamented Elba. After you have crossed the Atlantic in 
a certain ship, you feel a sense of proprietorship in, and 
form a definite attachment for, it. Your interest in it 
never wanes. So I thought of the Elba, and her noble 
crew, and her precious human freight, as going down 
in the waters where she had made her trial trip, and over 
which she had so often sailed in her majesty. 

Among the places of interest that greeted us as we 
"slipped out to sea" were North River, the Battery, Brook- 
lyn Bridge, East River, Fort Columbus, Fort Hamilton, 
Fort Lafayette, the statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, and 
Fort Hancock, on Sandy Hook. The last-named fort is 
the most modern of the harbor defences. This stronghold 
is manned by the latest improved disappearing guns. The 
old masonry structures have given way to the more un- 
pretentious, modern earthen ones. The latter have the 
advantage for two reasons : First, they do not afford so 
attractive a target for the enemy; and second, they are 
not so destructible. It will long be remembered how 
effective the improvised forts of palmetto logs and sand 
were about the harbor of Charleston, S. C, during the 
war between the States. 

The official pilot left our boat for his own steamer, 
which was lying outside the bar, waiting for him. The 
pilot was "loaded to the gunwale" with letters, postals, 
souvenir cards, telegrams and cablegrams, sent by the 
cruisers, between the dock and the bar. Those, of course, 
he sent upon landing in New York. Then several lusty, 
wicked screams from the sirens, were exchanged between 
the Kurfuerst and the New York, the pilot's jaunty boat, 
and we were under full head of steam, off for the deep 
blue sea. 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 19 



I found myself very fortunate in my room-mates, Dr. 
John R. Brown, of Providence; Rev. G. J. Gongaware, 
of Warren, Pa. ; and Mr. John W. Blank, of Emporia, 
Kansas. We had a delightful, roomy, well located, well 
appointed stateroom, and were happy. Almost every pas- 
senger was present at the supper-table. The delicious 
music of the ship's orchestra, together with the feast 
spread before us in the dining-room, gave everything 
about our first meal on board, the air of a banquet. But 
on toward evening, the question of "mal de 
First Symptoms m er" began to thrust itself upon the atten- 

of Malde . _ , . _ 

mer . tion of the pilgrims. Even at the table, 

there was a look of fearful anticipation on 
the faces of a great many; and too many of the diners 
left abruptly, without finishing their meal — some, indeed, 
before the first course was passed. It was immensely 
amusing to see the effort, on the part of so many, to be 
brave and "not go. down." To tell the truth, I was not 
quite certain about myself, for being a little hungry, I 
partook rather freely of the absolutely faultless supper. I 
took the precaution of staying outside, on deck, in the 
open air, till nearly eleven o'clock. This is the finest 
preventage of sea-sickness. When I did retire to my 
stateroom, I went to bed to sleep like a baby, "rocked in 
the cradle of the deep." I never enjoyed a better night's 
rest. The ocean swell was lively, and the effect was 
magical. One thing about the personnel of the passengers 
impressed me the first day : there was an air of refine- 
ment, gentleness and culture that I had never seen in so 
large a company of men and women before. There was 
nothing strange or unnatural. There was not a long 
face among the passengers. There were none but first 
cabin tourists on board. Everybody was as good as any- 
body else, and if anything, a little better, too. 



20 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



The following facts, obtained from official sources, will 
prove welcome, I am sure : The Grosser Kurfuerst was 
built at Danzig, at a cost of two million dol- 

The Kur r fuer e st. krs - Her len £ th is 5§2 feet ; beam, 62 
feet; depth, from upper deck to keel, 45 
feet ; draught, 28 feet of water, when loaded to the water- 
line. She measures 13,183 tons displacement, and can 
carry 12,000 tons of cargo. She is divided into thirteen 
water-tight compartments by twelve bulkheads. Ten of 
these compartments can be filled with water, and the 
vessel continue to float. She carries 2,294 tons of water ; 
1,527 tons of ballast ; 264 tons of feed water for the boilers ; 
503 tons of drinking water. There are two main engines, 
each quadruple expansion, with four cylinders, working 
on four cranks, together turning the shaftings. The 
shaft of each engine is 216 feet long, and 16 inches in 
diameter. She is equipped with twin propellers, each 
screw measuring eighteen feet in diameter, with twenty 
feet pitch. Both engines register 9,700 horse, while each 
propeller is capable of making eighty-two revolutions per 
minute, giving the ship a speed of sixteen knots per hour. 
The steam, for all purposes, is produced in five double- 
end and two single-end cylindrical boilers, with thirty-five 
fires in all. The coal bunkers, lying around and above 
the boilers, carry 2,000 tons of coal, and the daily con- 
sumption of coal is from 150 to 160 tons. There are three 
dynamos supplying the electricity, for the one thousand 
lights, and the motors in the cold storage and the laundry. 
There is a hydraulic machine, supplying the power for 
four hydraulic cranes, for handling cargo and baggage. 
There is an evaporator, producing fresh water from sea 
water, for 'feeding the boilers at the rate of forty tons 
per day ; and also a distiller for making twenty-four tons 
of drinking water, daily. She has three ten-ton ice ma- 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 



21 



chines for refrigerator rooms and provision stores; and 
twenty pumps for the various uses on board. 

The machinery crew consists of chief engineer and nine 
assistant engineers, a boilermaker, an electrician, seven 
oilers, a hydraulic man, a storekeeper, twenty-seven fire- 
men, and thirty trimmers — in all seventy-eight. This 
crew is divided into three watches, of eight hours each. 
The ship's crew numbers three hundred and sixty-six 
men. The captain is the supreme commander, having the 
power of life and death over the entire crew. Under 
him are four officers of equal rank: the chief officer, in 
charge of forty-eight deck sailors ; the chief engineer, 
in charge of sixty-eight men; the purser, in charge of 
two hundred and fifty table, kitchen, room and deck 
stewards ; and the chief doctor, charged with keeping all 
on board in the best of health. The chief steward has 
the responsibility of one hundred and sixty-seven men, 
who have the care of the dining-rooms, gangways, decks, 
cabins and kitchens. This includes four second stewards, 
seven stewardesses, sixteen musicians, nine dishwashers, 
two heads of pantries and one hundred and twenty table 
stewards. Every day the dishes and glassware are 
counted. The company allows ten per cent, for breakage ; 
all over that, must be paid for by the stewards, the 
amount being equally divided amongst them. 

The "log" is an instrument that records the speed of 
the ship. It consists of a spiral wheel, trailing in the sea, 
fifty fathoms behind the vessel. The revolutions of this 
wheel, are in direct proportion to the rate of speed at 
which the ship is moving, thus registering, accurately, 
the distance sailed each day. The daily record is pub- 
lished a't noon, on the bulletin board. 

Independent observations are taken by the captain and 
chief officer every morning and afternoon, when the sun 



22 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



is shining. Thus the latitude and longitude are found, 
within a fraction of a knot. In foggy weather, they run 
on "dead reckoning," which means that they determine 
the position of the ship from the speed and course. 

There are two 170- foot steel masts, known as the "fore- 
mast" and "mainmast." At night, a light is carried aloft 
upon each mast, and to the mainmast the Marconi instru- 
ment is attached. On the foremast, all interest centres 
in the crow's nest, in which two sailor boys keep watch 
for one hour at a time, day and night. The ship's flags 
are of the greatest importance. At the bow flies the flag 
of the city of Bremen, as every ship carries on the "jack- 
staff," the flag of her city. At the top of the foremast, 
she carries the flag of the nation into whose harbor she 
is entering. At the top of the mainmast, flies the flag of 
the ship's company. From the stern, flies the German 
ensign. Every ship flies her national flag at her stern. 
The signal flags and lights speak an universal language 
to sailors. Gala flags are used in decorating the ship on 
festive occasions. 

At the port, a red light is carried, at night, while a 
green light signals from the starboard side. 

The following is the official list of supplies taken on 
board at New York before sailing: Poultry, 22,900 
pounds; meats, 87,296; flour, 95,000; po- 

Ship's Supplies. or . 

tatoes, 142,887; eggs, 57,000; citrons, 
35,780; sugar, 23,038 ; coffee, 7,340; fish, 17,521; vege- 
tables, 38,190 ; butter, 31,215 ; tea, 735 ; oranges, 40,250 ; 
milk, 9,262 gallons; ice, 135 tons; coal, 3,906 tons; min- 
eral water, 50,228 bottles ; dried fruit, 8,866 pounds ; and 
fresh fruits, 18,050 pounds. Other supplies were taken 
on at other points on the cruise. 

On the hurricane deck are the life-boats, lashed on each 
side. Each boat is capable of holding fifty persons, and 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 



23 



is fitted with sails and oars, and kerit ready for instant 
use. On each voyage these life-boats are supplied with 
water, hardtack, a compass and some stimulants and other 
simple medical remedies. In case of need, 'the boats could 
be lowered in perfect order, and ready for use, in ninety 
seconds. Also, as a precaution, every stateroom is sup- 
plied with life-preservers. 

Wednesday morning I was awakened by the musical 
notes of the bugle call at seven. The sweet strains of that 
bugler were like those of our splendid mockingbird of the 
Southland on a balmy spring morning. I dressed and 
went on deck, to get the bracing tonic of the pure ozone 
of the early morning sea. The Atlantic was just enough 
agitated to make the sail interesting. The sea gulls were 
still in evidence, following in the wake of the ship. After 
a delightful appetizer, I went in at 8:45, and enjoyed a 
good breakfast. But, alas ! that many who had fought 
with me the night before, when the lights were brilliant 
and the music captivating, were missing! We did not 
ask where they were. We knew too well. My friend, 
Gongaware, had to quit the field early in the battle. He 
ordered soft-boiled eggs, grape fruit and oranges, but 
never saw the order filled. He did not remain for the 
return of the waiter. The waiter understood, and was 
respectful and silent. 

That morning I received an envelope enclosing return 
ticket, side-trip tickets, passports and steamer chair ticket. 
I never saw a grander day. The face of the deep was 
flecked with white caps, which always indicate a good, 
stiff breeze. Our path lay in the Gulf Stream ; our direc- 
tion bore to the southeast. The wind was blowing from 
the north. Flad our course been different, the effect of 
the wind would have been much greater. The trip was 
such an ideal one, that I could but wish that all my friends 



24 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



might enjoy it with me. I forgot to mention that we met, 
in New York harbor, the Kaiser Wilhelm II., coming into 
port. This is the largest and fleetest liner of the company. 
By twelve o'clock, noon, we had gained twenty minutes 
in time from Sandy Hook. From this time on, our 
watches had to be changed daily. The first religious 
service was held in the dining-room at 9 p. m. It was 
a service of song, Scripture reading and prayer, conducted 
by Mr. F. H. Jacobs, of New York. It was a profitable 
hour to all who could attend. There were, by that time, 
hundreds of cases of sea-sickness. The exception was 
when the passenger did not feel uncertain. Personally, 
I was glad to report freedom from the least suggestion 
of discomfort. After a jolly time on deck, after service, 
with some fellow-passengers, I bade them good-night and 
sought the arms of Morpheus. 

On the morning of the tenth of March there was a 
great sea running, by daylight. A rain and hail-storm 
overtook us from the northwest. The proverbial rainbow, 
"the sailor's warning," was in distinct evidence soon after 
sunrise. The boat rocked, rolled and plunged. The ex- 
perience proved very exhilarating to those who were well 
and strong, but not so to the other large list. I never 
saw grander swells. The waves at a distance, through 
the mist, looked like ranges of snow-capped mountains. 

Up to noon, our ship had made a total of six hundred 
and twenty-seven "sea miles" and gained fifty minutes in 
time. I had a fine appetite for dinner, and proved equal 
to the occasion. I had the honor of a seat at the captain's 
table. Our section won the name of "the invineibles." 
I never felt better than on that stormy sea. The billows 
steadily increased, till the great liner "reeled to and fro 
like a drunken man." Had the storm been "dead ahead," 
the seas would have rolled over the hurricane deck, and 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 



compelled the hatches to be closed. A storm at sea baffles 
all description — indeed, it would not be what it is if it 
could be pictured. How delightful it was to stand at the 
prow and see the great leviathan rise to an incredible 
height, only to fall to a corresponding depth ! At times 
it would almost take your breath. An experience quite 
as interesting was enjoyed at the stern. The angry seas 
came rolling after us, as if they would overwhelm the 
ship. But the powerful twin propellers were doing their 
work at the rate of eighty revolutions per minute. This 
broke the force of the billows as they struck her astern. 
The only living creatures we saw in the waters were the 
impudent little sea turtles; the only denizens of the air 
were the dauntless gulls, that seemed to glory in the 
stormy moods of Neptune. To realize what I witnessed 
that day, it must be seen. 

At eight p. m. we were treated to a stereopticon lecture 
by Dr. Clark, of Ohio. The topic was, "In and Around 
New York City." 



CHAPTER III. 



From New York to Funchal. 

THE next day dawned bright and clear. For some 
time after breakfast I stood at the bow with Rev. 
Samuel Harris, of North Dakota, drinking in the delicious 
atmosphere. During the forenoon I had my first game 
of "shuffle board" and "ship ring." The game, in eacli 
case, was between four persons. 

The captain distributed a souvenir hat-band among -the 
cruisers before noon. 

A souvenir edition of the "Manual of Worship," for 
use in the convention at Jerusalem, was distributed among 
the members. This I shall always keep, in memory of 
the cruise to the Orient. 

At three p. m. we had a "Dixie" meeting, at which time 
all the Southern people on board were to meet and get 
acquainted. It was a fine time that we had. We elected 
Judge Martin, ex-Moderator of the Southern Presby- 
terian General Assembly, our chairman, and Miss White, 
of Memphis, our secretary. By 12 M. we had gained 
one and a quarter hours from New York and two and a 
quarter from Taylor. 

The temperature throughout the day was much milder 
than the day before. We were sailing in the latitude of 
Richmond, Va. Madeira is in the latitude of Savannah, 
Ga. ' 

Our route being out of the great thoroughfare, we had 
sighted only one craft, a two-masted schooner, so far. 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 27 



a Desert of This one fact impressed us with the vast- 
Waters. ness f the Atlantic. Just think of sailing 
for more than a thousand miles without seeing another 
vessel of any kind ! 

The sun went down with a magnificence all his own — 
such as is seen only on the mighty deep. I never saw a 
more -beautiful day. ''The sea is his, and he made it," 
is gloriously true. 

After supper we met to hear some "Hints on Travel." 
The company recited in unison the travellers' Psalm, the 
ninety-first. Then we were entertained and instructed 
with talks from Dr. Henry Jessup, Hon. Herbert Clark, 
Vice-Consul to Jerusalem, and others. 

When I went to my stateroom I found a basket of 
grapes and oranges, sent to Mr. Gongaware by a New 
York friend. Of these, Brown, Gongaware and I did 
partake to our satisfaction. Poor Blank could not enjoy 
fruits, for he was too busy paying his devotions to Nep- 
tune ! The truth is, that gentleman did not come tO' his 
stateroom to sleep at night. He was afraid that he might 
not be able to again raise his head from his pillow. Life 
was no pleasure to him all the way over. 

The next morning the weather was warm and the sea 
like glass. Early in the day we sighted a large liner, 
about ten knots to the north of us. She was a grand ship, 
and, by the 'aid of the glasses, we made out that she be- 
longed to the Cunard line. 

I was talking with Captain Reimkasten that morning 
about the "watches" on the vessel. All calculations are 
from noon to noon. There are six watches 
in the twenty-four hours, of four hours 
each. Besides this, there is a peculiar feature from four 
to six p. m., known as the "dog watch," at which time 
the watch in the crow's nest is doubled. This is done 



28 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



in order that a shift may be made, and the same set of 
men not have to be on duty at the same hour every day. 

This great ship has a fine government, everything being 
carried on according to the most perfect system. It is a 
veritable bee-hive. 

The World's Sunday-School Executive Committee had 
to pledge $440,000 for this trip. They jointly risked their 
private fortunes. The enterprise has proven such a suc- 
cess that they will lose nothing. 

The delegates were beginning to organize, by States 
and divisions, for their own convenience. The Canada 
contingent was a large one. Ohio's delegation numbered 
seventy-nine. The "cruise chorus" was also organized, 
and we had a good time practicing some of the songs for 
the convention in Jerusalem. Every day, except the 
Lord's day, we met at 2 : 30 to practice. This was a great 
privilege that I would not like to have missed. 

The rest of the afternoon I spent on deck. As I looked 
out on the sea, I was charmed with its indescribable 
beauty, and overwhelmed with a sense of its vastness. At 
nine o'clock we had an informal service in the assembly- 
room. 

On Sabbath morning the orchestra aroused us with the 
music of "Jesus, Lover of my Soul," "Come, ye Discon- 
solate," and several other hymns, exquisitely rendered. 
That prepared us for rising to praise the Lord for his 
goodness to us all. 

At 10 : 30 divine service was held. After appropriate 
hymns, Scripture reading and prayer, Dr. John Potts, of 
Toronto, preached a fine sermon, eminently suitable to 
the occasion. The text was the thirtieth verse of the one 
hundred and seventh Psalm, the theme being "The Voy- 
age of Life." The discourse closed with Tennyson's 
"Crossing the Bar." There were two other services at 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 29 



the same hour, on the fore and aft decks, one being in 
German to the crew. 

After dinner I attended the great Sunday-school, con- 
ducted by Mr. Marion Lawrence, of Toledo. The nura- 
First sabbath b er present was five hundred and twenty- 

atsea. ifc WOl . The offering was for the International 
Sunday-school work, and amounted to exactly one hun- 
dred dollars. These exercises could but prove a great 
blessing, both for that day and the future, and to others 
as well as to ourselves. 

That was an ideal day at sea. The heavens above, and 
the waters upon whose bosom we were being rocked, were 
bright and sweet and beautiful. The steady breeze was 
ahead, and the Kurfuerst was sailing "with a bone in her 
teeth." 

I was pleased with the difference -between this and the 
other six days of the week. The purpose of the cruise 
was to "remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy." 
There were those on board who had not been out of their 
staterooms 'since we left Sandy Hook. For these, special 
prayer was offered at the hours of public worship. Some 
of those unfortunate people were not able to be up till 
"terra firma" was sighted, on the other side. The sight 
of land is an unfailing cure for sea-sickness. 

Throughout the day we sailed in the northern part of 
the Sargasso Sea. The sea-weed was much in evidence, 
but did not interfere with our speed. At 8 : 45 evening 
worship was conducted in the forward dining-room. It 
was a most profitable service, and ended a happy day on 
board. 

Monday morning, at the bugler's bewitching call, I rose 
and proceeded to the deck for a constitutional before 
breakfast. After "morgenessen" we met on deck, to get 
a picture of our table, the "invincible halfscore," 



3Q CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



After the practice of the chorus, in the afternoon, I met 
with the Illinois and Ohio delegations, to study the coun- 
tries whither we were bound. Up to noon we had sailed 
2,052 knots, and were in latitude 34 35', and longitude 
31 n\ We had gained three hours and forty-five 
minutes, so that at twelve noon there, it would be 8: 15 
at home. 

We were constantly making a little over fifteen knots 
per hour, and everything was going well. At 8: 45 p. m. 
we assembled to hear a lecture by Dr. Jessup on the 
Mohammedan religion. That was most instructive and 
interesting. Mohammed, the founder of 

Moslem Creed. . . , r . 

this system, was born at Mecca m the year 
570. He is the author of the Koran, which is the Bible 
of the Mohammedan. This he claimed to have received 
by revelation from God. The following are the five points 
of its ritual : 

1. The testimony: "There is no God but God, and Mo- 
hammed is his apostle." 

2. Almsgiving. 

3. Pilgrimage to Mecca, once in a life-time. 

4. One full day's fast each year. 

5. Prayer, five times a day. 

When a Mohammedan has conformed to these require- 
ments, he may commit any sin and yet be saved. They 
have a saying to the effect that iF a man has gone to 
Mecca once, he is all perfect; if twice, watch him; if 
thrice, watch him with great care; if four times, have 
nothing to do with him, for he is so holy that he is dan- 
gerous. The idea is that the pilgrimages confer licences 
to commit any sin known to the decalogue. From the 
Mohammedan's dress, one who is versed in their religious 
practices can tell whether he has ever been to Mecca, 
and if so, how many times. 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 31 



There are two hundred million Moslems in the world. 
Turkey and Morocco are the only countries where they 
now dare to persecute "infidels," as they style all who are 
not followers of Mohammed. 

On Tuesday, the 15th, I rose early to see the sun rise. 
As we were to arrive at Madeira the following day, every- 
body on board was busy writing letters home, to be mailed 
at Funchal. 

After supper we met to hear a lecture on Madeira by 
Dr. John R. Brown. Also, addresses were made by Dr. 
Jessup, Rev. W. Scott Whktier and Mr. Warren, chair- 
man of the World's Committee. From the conference 
we gathered many important facts. 

The island is of volcanic origin, belongs to Portugal, 
and the people speak the Portuguese language. Madeira 
Island is fifteen by thirty miles in area, and has a popula- 
tion of more than one hundred thousand. 

The majority of those professing to be Christians are 
Romanists. 

There are two Protestant missions in Madeira. The 
Scotch Presbyterian, which is the older, was founded by 
Missions in Dr. Kalley in 1837. Dr. Kalley was not a 
Madeira. minister, but a physician. He went thither 
for his health, and remained to break the bread of life 
to the inhabitants. The result of the efforts of that con- 
secrated physician was the conversion of a thousand Por- 
tuguese to Protestantism. In 1846 persecution arose, and 
drove from the island all the Protestants. A part of these 
fled to the island of Trinidad. Of these Mr. Whittier is 
pastor. The rest went to Jacksonville, Illinois, where 
they have a Portuguese minister, and have their services 
in their mother tongue. For a period of about ten years 
there was practically no Protestant witness in Madeira. 
But the mission has been reestablished, and is doing a 



32 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



noble work among the people. The other mission was 
founded by the Methodist Church of the U. S. A. They 
have two ministers, and are also doing efficient service for 
the Master. 

About 8 : 30 Wednesday morning land was sighted. As 
we approached, the island presented a magnificent appear- 
ance. The northern end rises abruptly out 

Terra Firma. r . ,™ , . . . 

01 the sea. lne coast line is almost per- 
pendicular, and stands several hundred feet above the sur- 
face of the water. When we first sighted the land, mist 
enveloped the island, but as the morning advanced the 
mist gathered and formed glorious clouds. These clouds 
cast most beautiful shadows over the mountains, and 
added much to the splendor of the landscape. The 
shadows were so well defined that the variety was unend- 
ing, and most pleasing to the voyagers. The clouds that 
capped the summits of the mountains immensely enhanced 
the glory of the pictures as they came and went. 

As we sailed along some distance from the southwest 
coast, the most rugged ridges and peaks rose up before 
The Fairy us - The canons and gorges were grand. 

island. i n many places the island seemed to be cleft 
asunder. Ridge after ridge, and peak after peak, lifted 
themselves and towered in the panorama. The highest 
point on the island is more than six thousand feet above 
sea level. We saw some of the most exquisite waterfalls. 
The first of those was several hundred feet in height. 
Then another, with three successive cascades. 

About ten o'clock I discerned something that looked 
to me like the spray of the sea upon a rock-bound coast. 
This I found, in due time, to be a village at the mouth 
of a canon at the seaside. Also, I discovered a group of 
objects that showed so white and so small that I thought 
they were a herd of white goats or cows. Soon they 



FROM NEW YORK TO FUNCHAL. 33 



revealed themselves as a town composed of white 
houses. 

From that on to Funchal the views became more and 
more distinct. We found that the country near the 
water's edge was very generally settled. We noticed that 
a large part of the surface was without trees. This area 
was covered with grass, whose green could be discerned 
for miles out at sea. The timber growth consisted of the 
cedar and pine, for the most part. As we passed down 
toward the southern side of the island, we could see corn, 
millet and sugar-cane growing. There most of the fruits, 
tropical and sub-tropical, abound. In March, straw- 
berries, beans, sweet and Irish potatoes, pumpkins, toma- 
toes and squashes were plentiful in the gardens and on 
the market. 

At exactly twelve, noon, we dropped anchor in the 
beautiful harbor. 

Thus, an eight-days' sail was completed on time, to the 
minute. 

This passage across the Atlantic was a remarkable one 
for several reasons: the exceptionally fine weather, the 
steady sail of this gallant ship, the courteous, efficient 
service of the capable crew, from the captain to the stoker 
in the terrific heat below; the peculiarly delightful com- 
pany on board, and the specially gracious kindness of 
God, who made the sea, and holds its waters in the hollow 
of his hand. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Madeira. 

I SHALL never forget the impression made upon me 
by my first vision of the city of Funchal, the unique 
capital of Madeira. The white and yellow houses, with 
their red and terra-cotta roofs, the old forts, the churches, 
the system of terraces, the sea-wall, the wharves, the gar- 
dens and the crooked streets, together made a picture of 
unusual beauty. The half-clad natives, surrounding the 
Grosser Kurfuerst with their fleet of a hundred rowboats, 
and calling to the voyagers to throw pieces of silver into 
the clear waters below, that they might dive from their 
boats and bring up the coins before they reached the bot- 
tom, presented another picture, in vivid contrast with the 
first. One boy made a high dive from the bridge deck, 
a distance of fifty feet, for fifty cents of American money. 

No one had an appetite for lunch, for the tenders were 
in waiting to carry us ashore. When landed on the stone 
wharf, I felt as if it were rocking and swaying under 
my feet, and so it seemed for hours. I could hardly 
become relieved of the impression that I was on board 
the ship. 

The first strange sight was the "carro," or ox-carriage. 
There was a row of them, possibly fifty, lined up as our 
in Madeira's carriages and omnibuses are at the railway 
capital. stations. These are peculiar to this island. 

They have two runners, as in the ordinary sled, only well 
finished, and turning up at each end. The top is a canopy, 
closed at each end and open at the sides. There are two 



MADEIRA. 35 

seats, facing each other, and holding two persons each. 
The appearance is much that of the ancient vehicle known 
in America as the "carryall." It is a little more quaint 
than the antiquated "caleche" that we saw in the city of 
Quebec, and at Murray Bay, far down the St. Lawrence, 
toward the mouth of the Saguenay River. To this carro, 
whose runners are "armed" with a plate of steel, are 
hitched a yoke of oxen. The tongue to which the yoke 
is attached is a huge pole, such as is seen in the ordinary 
ox-cart in the West. Each pair of oxen wears two little 
bells. 

The streets and pavements are beautifully paved with 
small water-worn stones taken from the beach. Much 
skill has been displayed in the construction of these high- 
ways. The stones are placed upon their ends, and driven 
so close together that no cracks or chinks are left. Great 
pains have been taken to place these stones artistically. 
The prevailing color is very dark brown, and with this 
as a back-ground, the ornamentation is done by means of 
white stones, some of which are no larger than marbles 
on the exposed ends. They make with these numbers, 
letters and figures of diamond, rectangular and triangular 
shapes. The names of public buildings, places of business 
and private residents are inlaid in this unique way. The 
whole system of paving is a mosaic in pebbles. 

Greater Funchal is a city of thirty-six thousand inhabi- 
tants. The city was founded four hundred and sixty-four 
years ago. It has hundreds of miles of stone walls, for 
all the residences and gardens are terraced. Some of 
these walls are twenty, thirty, fifty — up to five hundred 
feet in height. Streets wind like serpents' paths. They 
are very steep in places. On these steep inclines the 
paving is done in transverse parallel ridges. This feature 
supplies the place of necessary steps. 



36 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



The public and private gardens are a splendid dream. 
The palm, sycamore, colossal ferns, firs, pines, cedars, 
mesquite, acacia, wisteria, boganvilia, rhododendron, 
geranium, pandanus, oak, orange, banana — all are a per- 
fect delight to the visitor. 

There is a great variety of climate on the island. While 
much snow falls on the mountains, in Funchal the tem- 
perature rarely falls below sixty degrees. The fact that 
there is only ten degrees difference between the average 
temperatures of winter and summer, shows how equable 
the climate of Madeira's capital is. 

The delegates met at 4 p. m. in the Grand Theatre. 
The Right Hon. J. A. Dixon, of Ireland, Consul from 
Great Britain to Madeira, an ex-member of Parliament, 
Great Cruise was called to the chair, and presided with 
Service. great dignity. Addresses of welcome were 

made by the chairman and representatives of the two 
Protestant missions in Funchal. Responses were given 
by Dr. Potts, Messrs. Warren, Hartshorn, Lawrence, and 
others. The soul-stirring hymns, "In the Cross of Christ 
I Glory," and "Nearer, my God, to Thee," were rendered 
by the great throng. At the same hour another meeting 
was held in one of the public gardens. The municipal 
authorities granted the use of these public places free of 
charge. The Portuguese were not permitted to attend 
the exercises, the services being ostensibly for the for- 
eigners. At the door of the theatre an offering worthy 
of the assembly was put on the plates for non-sectarian 
charities. 

We visited the old fort, built in 1641, which is now 
used for signal service only. From the citadel we had 
a fine view of the harbor. On the top of this stone mass 
we drank delicious cold water from a cistern supplied 
by the springs in the mountains. 



MADEIRA. 



37 



Then we crossed the rivers San Juan and Santa Lozia, 
running like cataracts through the city. These are from 
thirty to sixty feet below the streets, and their banks are 
walled with stone. The waters are not deep, but cause a 
mighty roaring as they fall toward the sea. 

The Portuguese women and children, down on the 
rocks washing their clothes, presented a very picturesque 
appearance. They use the smooth rocks as washboards, 
and spread the garments on the rocks to dry. Every day 
is wash-day in Fundi al. 

So far as the streets are concerned, Funchal is the 
cleanest city I ever saw; for, on account of the steep 
grade of the streets, they are washed clean whenever a 
great rain falls. 

One of the most delightful places in the city is the 
private garden of an English gentleman. We were given 
the freedom of the grounds, and enjoyed the privilege to 
the fullest extent. I was attracted by the fuchsias, be- 
gonias, bamboos, and a species of tree with green bark, 
and roots that grow three or four feet above ground, and 
serve as braces to the trunk of the tree. The stem does 
not reach the ground, but is met and supported by the 
roots, as intimated. There we saw many magnificent 
varieties of palm, among which was the date. The 
manner in which we were thanked for our visit was re- 
freshing. 

Later on we took the horse tram-car to the station of 
the elevated railway, which carries you two miles up the 
mountain. The ascent is very steep. On both sides of 
the road there is a succession of terraces, upon which the 
inhabitants have their houses and gardens. These gar- 
dens are irrigated by the abundant waters that rush down 
from the high mountains. At frequent intervals there 
are cement tanks, which receive and distribute the water 



3* 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



through a system of pipes, for all purposes. We have a 
fine illustration of intensive gardening on these terraces. 
While they do not have the "hanging," they do have the 
"two-story" gardens to perfection. The grape arbors, 
made of bamboo, are erected above the vegetable and 
sugar-cane plots. 

Out of the crevices of the rocks and walls, without even 
having been planted or cultivated, grow the finest speci- 
mens of calla lilies, geraniums and nasturtiums. By 
actual measurement, I found one of these callas to be six 
inches, shortest diameter, eight inches in length and 
twenty-six inches around the cup. Here the magnificence 
of the boganvilia captivates you. It is a reddish, purple 
flower, with three petals, and resembles the calix of the 
ground-cherry, of the Carolinas. It climbs for many rods 
on the sides of houses, on the rock walls, and over the 
trees, much as the w T isteria, and in as great profusion. 
Nothing could "be more beautiful. It is the first and last 
flower that you see in approaching and leaving the city. 

In ascending the mountain, the native children run 
along each side of the track on the rock walls, throwing 
the most gorgeous roses, lilies, japonicas and geraniums 
in upon the passengers, hoping to receive pennies for 
their attentions. The same experience you meet in the 
tram-cars, carros, and even in walking on the streets — 
everywhere. They will come to you and put flowers into 
your pockets, your buttonholes and your hands, until you 
grow weary of their lavish kindness. 

After leaving the railway, at the terminus on the moun- 
tain, we walked up to the Convent Church, with its two 
stately towers, an old structure of other days. From the 
gallery above we had a glorious view of the harbor, the 
city and the mountains to the northwest and southeast. 

Thence we descended by the carros de monte, or to- 



MADEIRA. 



39 



boggan cars. These are made of wicker work, are on 
wood runners, are seated and upholstered 
Rapid Transit. ^ ^ € accommodation of two, and some- 
times three, passengers. The cars are so light that they 
are carried up the slide upon the shoulders of one man. 
It takes two hours to make the ascent and ten minutes the 
descent. It is an exhilirating experience, and one not 
likely to be repeated by tourists. The slide is very steep 
and the rate of speed very great. Each car is manned 
by two Portuguese. They hold in their hands ropes, 
with which they guide the course and regulate the speed 
of the car. The men run and ride behind. The slide is 
paved in transverse ridges. 

I never saw anything more perfect than this track. It 
is a fine piece of engineering, and the surface is as smooth 
as glass. There are high walls on each side of the road, 
and at intervals there are wine shops, at which the at- 
tendants are accommodating enough to stop for your 
refreshment and theirs. 

The celebrated Madeira wine is to be had everywhere. 
At the foot of the slide, which is over two miles in length, 
we took the tram-car for the "Afrika Haus," where we 
had an elegant supper. 

After a visit to the public gardens, we passed through 
the city toward the wharf, where we took a tender for our 
good ship. 

Friday morning, wishing to see something of the life 
and occupation of the humbler natives, we made our way 
beyond the city limits. 

Everywhere we were greeted with flowers, fruits and 
vegetable gardens. One peculiarity of most of the fruit 
trees was that while the trees were in full blossom, they 
were laden with half-grown, and in some instances ripen- 
ing fruit. 



40 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



One of the surprises of that outing was the pottery, 
which we stumbled upon. Hereafter the Scripture pas- 
sage, "As clay in the hands of the potter," will have a 
different meaning for me. How wonderful is the skill 
of the artist, as he takes the lump of clay, and upon the 
lathe fashions the vases, pots, basins, figures, and such 
like, as he will ! 

I saw no wooden houses. They are all made of stone, 
and plastered on the outside. The well-to-do have tiled 
roofs; the poor, thatched. 

The lower classes are all beggars, from the little child 
to the old man and woman. Thousands of hands held 
out with the request, "A penny, please," made an inter- 
esting, and yet painful, picture. 

The people are universally polite, as are all nations 
speaking the Romance languages. 

The method of the dairyman is ingenious. The milk 
wagons are of the most perfect type. The milk never 
How the People spills, nor does it ever grow stale. The man 

Live - and woman go together, and drive the Jer- 

sey goats from door to door, and sell the product accord- 
ing to the order of the customer. The dairymen are so 
accommodating that they will even drive the "wagons" 
upstairs, when the people live in the second story. This 
I saw with my own eyes. It is the funniest sight — these 
dark brown goats scampering up and down stairs as if 
they were enjoying a holiday on the rock ledges. 

I was surprised to rind there the mule. This animal 
is the burden-bearer. He carries water, gravel, wood, 
rock, vegetables, sugar-cane, groceries, wine — every- 
thing. The peripatetic grocer is the man with the mule 
or burro, who takes around to his customers whatever 
they may need in his line. 



MADEIRA. 



4i 



At about 12: 15 we took our final leave of the city for 
the boat. 

After watching my fellow-passengers come aboard, my 
attention was attracted to the wide-open bazaar on deck, 
where the Portuguese were displaying the products of 
their handiwork. The inlaid work, willow baskets, wicker 
chairs, the pottery and drawn work, were a sight well 
worth looking at. 

The old fort, standing out in the water, is finely pic- 
turesque. The cylindrical tower of the signal station 
could certainly not be duplicated anywhere. 

The uniform of police and soldiers was seen every- 
where on board and on the fleet of small boats about the 
ship. The navy blue cap and overcoat, the gray panta- 
loons (much like the Confederate gray), tucked into boots 
reaching to the knees, the red stripe down the legs and 
around the collar and cap, and the belt, with the scabbard 
sheathing the machete, the bright buttons on the short 
coat — this constitutes the equipment of the soldier of 
Madeira. 

The order of the Franciscan monks is conspicuous here. 
The full-fledged monk wears a broad, black hat, a long 
black frock, reaching to the ankles, scarlet socks and 
black slippers. The "Novitiate," with his Prince Albert 
coat and his thin black shawl thrown over his left shoul- 
der, going usually with books in his 'hand, and always 
with his head bared, calls attention to the power of the 
Roman Catholic Church in Funchal. 

At three o'clock we "weighed anchor," and were under 
way promptly. The taking up of the anchor is a great 
enterprise. The great weight, the ponderous chain, the 
depth of water, twenty fathoms, all add to the interest. 



CHAPTER V. 



Gibraltar. 



WE waved "adios" to the inhabitants of the island, 
and our ship, bearing on her side a long label, 
"Jerusalem," printed in large letters, flying the German 
colors, and the flag with the cross and the words, "In this 
sign we conquer," signalled "auf wiedersehen," and we 
were off. 

As we sailed around the point, other beauties of Ma- 
deira were revealed to us. To the south of us were the 
"Desertas," a trio of rock-bound islands. These are unin- 
habited, being chiefly valuable as pasture lands and hunt- 
ing grounds. This is the home of the rabbit. The 
Desertas stand out hundreds of feet perpendicularly from 
the water's edge. 

The greatest wonder to me was the tall sentinel rock, 
standing out several rods from the nearest of the trio. 
It must be one thousand feet high, and is so symmetrical 
that it took a long time, with aid of glasses, to decide 
that it was not a lighthouse. 

There is only one lighthouse on the group, and that is 
on the most southeasterly promontory of Madeira. Here 
there is a signal station. 

But another wonder soon came into view. Behind the 
point displaying the lighthouse there is a great colossus, 
standing upon two giant feet. The opening must be two 
hundred and fifty feet by one hundred and fifty feet, thus 
affording a passageway large enough to allow the largest 




GIBRALTAR. 



43 



of modern steamers to pass through. I never . expected 
to see such a sight in this world. 

From this we passed to the last of the sisterhood, 
"Porto Santo." This is an inhabited island. There Co- 
Home of lumbus lived. He met his wife on Madeira. 
Columbus. This island is much like Madeira, though 
not so rugged. The last points of land passed were two 
sentinels that stand out some distance from Porto Santo, 
keeping guard over the most easterly of the Madeira 
group. 

Madeira lies two hundred and forty knots from Tene- 
riffe, on the Canary Islands ! three hundred and sixty, 
from the coast of Africa ; four hundred and eighty, from 
the Azores. 

Dr. Jessup addressed us, after supper, on the subject 
of "The Position of Woman in Mohammedan Countries." 
women in It was a great privilege to listen to one so 
Moslem Lands. we \\ qualified to speak on a topic of so much 
interest. There are more than one hundred million of 
Mohammedan women and girls. There is a proverb that 
"The threshold weeps when a girl is born ; but when a 
boy is born there is rejoicing." For thirty days after the 
birth of a daughter there is weeping and wailing; but 
when a son is born, the happy family exchanges presents 
and sends a favorite dish to the neighbors and friends. 
Since Mohammed's day no woman has shown her face 
on the street. A man never sees the face of his bride 
till after the ceremony has been performed. The women 
are wholly uneducated. 

According to the Koran, every man may legally marry 
five wives, and as many concubines as he can buy or his 
hand can take in war. The poor, who live in the country, 
rarely have more than one wife, while the rich in cities 
may, and do, stock their harems. With this polygamous 



44 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



life there comes continual unhappiness into the home. 
The Moslem may scourge his wife, even unto death, and 
no one can 'hinder him. He can divorce his wife by telling 
her, "There is the door." She then is helpless. She leaves 
her children behind. "What a Moslem does in his harem 
is nobody's business." But the dawn cometh. Two 
epoch-making books have been written in Arabic by a 
Moslem, wherein he advocates four distinct points: the 
education of woman, the abolishment of the veil, the plac- 
ing of woman on equal footing with man, the wiping out 
of polygamy. 

It is easy to see that this is the opening of the door 
to the bringing in of the gospel of Christ into the lives 
of the Mohammedan world. 

On the following morning the sea was a little boister- 
ous, consequently a good many people were "not feeling 
like coming to the table." That day nobody was able 
to walk straight, which looked a little suspicious after a 
visit to Madeira, but it was even so. 

At lunch the places of many more were vacant, and 
everything was "coming up" to their expectations ! 

Up to 12 m. we had sailed three thousand and sixty- 
eight knots from Sandy Hook, and had gained in time 
five hours and a quarter from Taylor. The captain's re- 
ception, appointed for the afternoon, was "indefinitely 
postponed," on account of the "inability" of a great many 
of the invited guests to attend. 

At night we listened to a lecture on "Gibraltar" by Rev. 
Junius Millard, of Baltimore. He treated the subject geo- 
logically, geographically and historically. The address 
was well prepared, and of special benefit, in view of the 
fact that we were expecting so soon to look upon the 
world's most formidable fortress. 

A little after daylight next morning, I rose for the pur- 



GIBRALTAR. 



45 



pose of seeing the two continents, as we sailed between 
them, through the straits of Gibraltar. 

I confess to a sense of oppression at the thought of 
looking upon the 'two ancient countries, as I stood upon 
Between too tne forward deck of this great cruiser. On 
continents. our left was Spain, Hispania of the Ro- 
mans, Cadiz, Trafalgar, Tarifa and Algesiras. Here the 
rugged mountains rose majestically from the waters on 
the southeast. Some of the mountains showed a face of 
bare rock, but the beautiful ridges that lay at right angles 
to the coast presented a carpet of indescribable green in 
the spreading grass. 

On the African side the mountains were equally evi- 
dent, the highest along the strait being one of the Pillars 
of Hercules, directly opposite Gibraltar, the other Pillar. 
This mountain rises abruptly and precipitously from the 
sea. We passed Tangier, Morocco, a city of fifteen thou- 
sand inhabitants. 

We had the pleasure of seeing two whales, "spouting," 
before breakfast. The popular notion that the whale 
sends out two streams of water from his nostrils is an 
error. In fact, he converts the water into spray by ex- 
pelling the air from his lungs, when he comes to the sur- 
face for a breath of fresh air. Whales, being mammals, 
cannot live without breathing. The volume of spray is 
several feet in height. About the same time we saw sev- 
eral schools of porpoises, some of which had a splendid 
frolic in running a race with us, under the prow of the 
ship. 

As we were approaching Gibraltar, we could see the 
"Leon Couchant," the reclining lion, peacefully gnawing 
a bone, while he looked suggestively toward Spain. 

At 8 a. m. we cast anchor, and were landing promptly 
by 9 o'clock. 



46 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



In the harbor were anchored one German and nine 
British men-of-war, besides several torpedo boats and 
torpedo boat destroyers. There also lay Koenig Albert, 
the German Emperor's ship. 

Gibraltar belongs to the English, and is the greatest 
stronghold in the world. "Impregnable" is the only term 
that will describe the great rock. 

On landing we were met by guides, with United States 
flags upon the lapels of their coats. They carried us 
through Main street, by the post-office, thence through 
"Castle Gate," just inside of which we had to register. 
Forty-five in a company were allowed to go beyond this 
point. We then went up to the fortifications through two 
dark tunnels, out from which were many port-holes open- 
ing, each aperture being armed with a terrific cannon. It 
did not look hospitable. 

Through another tunnel we passed to the old Moorish 
castle, erected three hundred years ago, but now used as 
a civil prison. From this place we returned through Cas- 
tle Gate, and went down by the Roman Catholic church. 
Thence we continued our tramp, through ascending 
streets, toward the south. From points all along this 
walk we had glorious views of the harbor and the Spanish 
and Morocco coasts. We passed along the road, where 
the dizzy heights and fearful depths divided our attention 
and admiration. 

Everywhere the wild verbena, heliotrope, oxalis, dan- 
delion and daisies were to be seen. We had a delightful 
visit to the public gardens. There many of the fruits and 
flowers were like those seen in the fairy island of Madeira, 
save that the latter place is more tropical. 

The climate of Gibraltar is delightful the year round. 
It never snows in Gibraltar, though the summit of the 
rock is over fourteen hundred feet. 



GIBRALTAR. 



47 



The largest tree in the city is an English walnut. 
When we reached this point we were informed that 
Kaiser Wilhelm II., of Germany, was to pass by, as the 
royal guest of Gibraltar. So we halted, and 

Der Kaiser. 111 1 • • 

were soon rewarded by obtaining a near 
view of his Majesty. In a victoria, with Admiral Beres- 
ford and the Governor and the Mayor, the son of "Unser 
Fritz" drove by. He was dressed in the uniform of an 
admiral. I was much pleased with the strength and kind- 
liness of the Kaiser's face. He impressed me as being a 
courteous and affable gentleman. He lifted his white cap 
to me, and I my black derby to him. Thus, two great 
representatives of two great nations met, recognized each 
other with an exchange of greetings, and passed ! 

With three of my comrades, I took a victoria, made on 
the island of Malta, and drove to Europa Point, the most 
southerly point in Europe. This was a royal drive. We 
passed the English and American churches, the Gov- 
ernor's mansion, the exchange, the American Consulate, 
the barracks, the officers' quarters, the Soldiers' and Sail- 
ors' Institute, the school-house, the lighthouse and the 
battery on the point. 

We left the carriage for an excursion up the side of 
the mountain to a cave, which Teel and I proceeded to 
explore. There we had a good example of the limestone 
cave. The one we entered had two chambers and a small 
lake. Thence we went around the eastern side of the 
rock, where we could see up under the face of the great 
fortress. This view was a sublime one. The outlook 
over the strait to Cuida and Cape Centa, the African 
Pillar of Hercules, was beautiful. 

Gibraltar is three miles long by three-quarters of a 

The World's Great- mile Wide. It is honey-COmbed With natti- 
est Stronghold, ral caves. There are many miles of tun- 



48 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



nels and galleries, stored with military supplies and armed 
with fortifications. Two great tunnels run through the 
rock at its base, the one at the north and the other at the 
south end. Billions upon billions have been spent upon 
this fortress. By it the British hold the Russians in 
check, and can dictate, at least negatively, to the East. 
From the water's edge to the summit Gibraltar frowns 
with batteries. Two of the most modern and powerful 
disappearing swivel guns crown the apex. No forces, by 
land or by sea, could surprise Gibraltar. You see the 
power of England here as nowhere else on the globe. 
Soldiers are on every hand, and you are always under 
their eye. It was with the Kaiser as with every other 
visitor. But you understand it, and do not mind it. You 
land here only by express permission of the British Gov- 
ernment, and you have also to leave at a certain hour. 

We drove from Europa Point to the "Neutral Ground," 
passing the base-ball ground, where a game was being 
played between competitors from the artillery and infan- 
try. On the way we passed through a grove of wild 
olives. There the only wild monkeys in Europe are 
found. These comprise both the tailed and tailless species. 
These little people are fawn-colored. 

Crossing the neutral strip, we were soon in the kingdom 
of Spain. We walked at once to the place of the greatest 
into Spain. interest in Lina, the Plaza de Torros, or bull 
ring. Here they engage in this brutal sport on every 
Lord's day during the summer months. Every Sabbath 
six of these poor animals are slaughtered. Here you can 
hardly make your way for the army of juvenile beggars. 

The difference between Britain and Spain is very strik- 
ing — almost spectacular. The latter looks a thousand 
years behind the former. 

From Lina we had a magnificent view of the northeast 



GIBRALTAR. 



49 



face of the rock. This is the phase of the mountain which 
the Prudential has adopted as its illustration and symbol. 

The population of Gibraltar is more than twenty thou- 
sand, about seven thousand of whom are soldiers and 
sailors. The streets are so narrow that draught horses 
and mules are never driven two abreast, but tandem. 
Here you see Turks, Arabs, Moors and Spaniards. Great 
numbers of Spaniards are employed in the docks. You 
meet armies of these workmen returning to Spain in the 
evening, they not being permitted to spend the night in 
Gibraltar. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Algiers. 

AT six o'clock sharp we weighed anchor, boxed the 
compass, and were off for the capital of Algeria, 
with flags flying and the band playing "America." 

We sailed around the Point between the Pillars of 
Hercules, where the strait is only fifteen miles wide. 
Here the current, from the Atlantic into the Mediterra- 
nean, is two and a half miles per hour. The theory of 
this current is rapid evaporation and under and side cur- 
rents in the opposite direction. 

The flash-lights from two great lighthouses, on both 
continents, greeted us as we passed. 

As soon as we entered the strait, I noticed the absence 
of the ocean swell. This is true also of the great sea. 
Its waters contain a stronger solution of salt than those 
of the Atlantic. J stood on the top deck and watched 
the great rock disappear under the mantle of night. The 
African mountains, the Sierra Madras and the sea, made 
a glorious setting for this incomparable gem. 

This ended a day of rare privileges. To have been 
permitted to look upon two continents, and three historic 
countries, was a new experience for me, in one day. 

That night we listened to addresses on Algiers. Valu- 
able suggestions as to "what to see and how to see it," 
in Algiers, were welcomed by us. 

The Sabbath dawned beautiful and bright. We were 
awakened by the sweet strains of "Onward, Christian 
Soldiers," "From Greeland's Icy Mountains," and "There 



ALGIERS. 



5i 



is Rest for the Weary," as those old church hymns were 
rendered by the orchestra. At 10: 30 we attended public 
worship, where Rev. Dr. Henry, of Philadelphia, preached 
a sermon, with Joshua xxii. 34 as his text. The session 
of the Sabbath-school opened at 2 : 45 p. m. The topic 
was, "Christ Feeding the Multitude." There were five 
hundred and eighty-eight present. The school was con- 
ducted by Mr. Pearce, of Ohio. This proved to be a very 
profitable hour to all in attendance. The services at night 
were conducted by Mr. Semelroth, of St. Louis. The 
subject was "Christian Fellowship." 

Monday, at 5 a. m., we were rounding the cape for 
the harbor of Algiers, and by six, were making ready to 
fasten the hawsers to the mole, some distance from the 
quay. We were on deck with open eyes. The harbor 
stretched toward the east ; the city lay spread around the 
west side of the harbor. The old Moorish city was to 
be seen far up the mountain, to the very crest of the 
ridge. The new city of the French extends from the 
water's edge, back to where it is met by the old town upon 
the mountain side. 

The fishing fleet was most interesting, with its ancient 
looking sails. Like the "Mosquito Fleet," of Charleston, 
these boats sail out in the early morning, and return, laden 
with the products of the sea, at eventide. The divers, 
equipped with their masks, were busy off the mole, bring- 
ing up the coal that had been dropped overboard when 
the cargo of coal freighters was being discharged. The 
coal was drawn up, by block and tackle, in stout hampers. 

Arrangements were made for our landing in small row- 
boats, carrying the stars and stripes. At the quay we 
On African were met by carriages and omnibuses. I 

San. W as fortunate enough to secure a seat on 

the top of one of the 'buses, drawn by two Arabian horses. 



52 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



This was my first introduction to the celebrated Arab 
steeds. The majority of these are grays and bays. They 
are not large animals, but muscular and active. Their 
limbs are well formed and graceful, their eyes large and 
intelligent, their necks arched, and their tails long and 
beautiful. 

Our drive led through French Algiers, down through 
Mustafa, past the military drill grounds, to the Garden 
of Palms. There we left our carriages, and walked 
through the garden, to meet them on the opposite side. 
The stately date-palm, the African palm, the eucalyptus, 
banana and bamboo were a joy to us. To me, the bamboo 
was the most wonderful of all. In diameter, just above 
ground, some of these giants are six and seven inches, 
and reach to a height of fifty and sixty feet. 

The drive from this enchanting spot to the top of the 
hill was one never to be forgotten. The road was perfect. 
The winding of the pike, around and up the side of the 
mountain, was indeed most beautiful. The grade could 
not have been improved upon. All along the way most 
beautiful and fragrant flowers abounded. The water 
tumbling in a cataract on one side, and the towering cliffs 
on the other, afforded a delicious variety. An old under- 
shot wheel added much to the picture. Here there are 
many other wheels used for the purpose of lifting the 
water for irrigating the gardens and vineyards. The 
great variety of sub-tropical wild flowers on every hand 
delighted us with their beauty and fragrance. There were 
quarries hundreds of feet above us, where the loosened 
stones were allowed to come thundering down the moun- 
tain side, not far from where our road led. On this drive 
we passed by many vineyards, and orange, lemon, citron, 
mandarin and lime groves. These trees presented the 
lovely picture of the ripe fruit, the green half-grown 



ALGIERS. 



53 



fruit, and the sweet, fresh blossoms — all at the same 
time. 

The old Moorish architecture, with its square walls, 
without windows, flat roofs and open courts, was some- 
thing new to us. At the summit there were magnificent 
residences and public buildings. One of the most inter- 
esting of the latter was the Moorish Convent, or "Sisini." 
There the kodak contingent were forbidden to take pic- 
tures of the premises ; but while the Moor was forbidding 
some of them, others were "getting in their work." After 
passing that place we had a most perfect view of the city 
and harbor. 

About half the distance down the mountain we came to 
the palace of the Governor. We were admitted into the 
grounds. The house was a fine example of Moorish 
architecture, and the garden was superb. 

A little farther down the drive we came to the old 
Cathedral Musee, where ancient relics of all descrip- 
a Noble tions, from Northern Africa, were to be 
Martyr. seen. There the interest centres in the 
plaster cast of Geronimo. He was a Moor, who was 
captured by the Spaniards, in a battle with the Moors, 
and carried to Spain. There he was converted to Chris- 
tianity. Afterwards he was returned to Algiers, where 
he was commanded to renounce his faith in Christ. He 
refused 1 , and was then told that if he did not recant he 
would be thrown into a vat of concrete which was being 
prepared for the building of a wall. He was firm, and 
the cruel threat was carried out. Centuries afterward, 
in 1853, the wall was torn down. The tradition of the 
tragedy had marked a certain section of the concrete as 
the place where the martyr was made to suffer. An 
archaeologist found the section, and had it broken open. 
He found the cavity and removed the bones. These are 



54 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



buried in the cathedral church, below, in the city, and a 
Latin inscription is there, to mark the last resting place of 
the bones of this faithful servant of Christ. 

A plaster cast of the mold was made, and is now found 
in this museum. It is erected on a frame, face downward. 
The hands are bound behind his back. The heavy iron 
hand-cuffs that manacled him are hanging on the end of 
the table. When looking at 'the face which looks toward 
the floor, one is met by something most astonishing. There 
is a life-like expression of the countenance. The look is 
kindly, full of faith, hope and love. I never expected to 
see such a sight. It was heavenly ; the product of Chris- 
tian trust alone. Surely here is a lesson well worth taking 
to heart and pondering. 

The following is the inscription upon the tablet : "Ossa 
venerabilis servi Dei Geronimo qui illatam sibi pro fide 
Christiana mortem opetiisse traditum in arce dicta a 
viginti quatuor horis in qua insperato reperta die XXVII. 
Deeembris, anno MDCCCLIIL, Cathedral Algiers, 
Africa." 

The grounds about this museum are very beautiful. 
From this garden one sees many places of interest in the 
city, as it stretches northward to the point where the 
Notre Dame Mosque stands. Here, too, is to be seen an 
old water-wheel, in use at the present time. 

Soon after leaving this wonderful place we passed the 
Consulate of Denmark. This, too, is a dream of beauty. 
Thence a rapidly descending drive carries you into the 
heart of the city. On the way to the quay you pass by 
the Square of Marechal Bugaud. Immediately after, the 
driver called out "Je finis" and we came down upon terra- 
firma. We turned our feet toward a mosque, near the 
park, where an equestrian statue of the Duke of Orleans 
stands. 



j 



i 




ALGIERS. 



55 



The mosque was a revelation to me. This, to the Mos- 
lem, is holy ground. You are not permitted to step upon 
Moslems at tne carpets and rugs till you have slipped 
worship. your feet into wooden sandals. Then you 
are allowed to go around as much as you please. At cer- 
tain places you see devout Moslems at prayer, kneeling 
and prostrating themselves, placing their foreheads upon 
the floor. But, before they pray, they must go to the 
fountain and wash their hands and feet, to the shoulders 
and knees, as a ceremonial preparation for the acts of 
worship that are to follow. Mohammedans always pray 
with their faces toward Mecca. Five times a day the 
Muezzin climbs into the Minaret, and calls the faithful 
to prayer by chanting, in as loud a voice as possible, the 
Mohammedan creed: " Allah akber (four times) ; Esse- 
hadou Allah il-laha il-Allah (twice) ; Essehadou Anneh 
Muhammadan ressool-ul-lah (twice) ; Haayah Allah 
saHah (twice) ; Haayah al ul-fellah (twice) ; Allah 
Akber (twice) ; La il lah il Allah." "Great one, I avow 
there is no god but God ; I avow that Mohammed is his 
prophet ; let us go and pray ; let us go save our souls ; 
God is great; there is no god but God." 

I was solemnly impressed, as I witnessed the blind 
devotion of these men. Their fidelity to their religion is 
both an example and a rebuke to many of us who have 
a better light and a brighter hope. Of course, one is very 
careful not to offend these benighted children of men in 
the maintenance of their conscientious position. 

We lunched at the Grand Hotel of the Foreigners, our 
first meal in Africa. It was an elegant repast, for which 
we paid three francs and fifty centimes. I would be 
baffled in any attempt to give the bill of fare, as we were 
served with African dishes, prepared according to the 



56 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



mysteries of the French cuisine. Thence we sallied forth 
to see more of the everyday life of the people. 

There are large Arab quarters in the city, which reveal 
all the virtues and vices of Arab life. The term, "quar- 
ters," indicates that the Arabs, Moors and Turks, re- 
spectively, occupy exclusive portions of the city of 
Algiers. 

The city being built upon a succession of natural ter- 
races, these quarters are separated from one another by 
long flights of stone steps. 

One of the most characteristic places in the city is the 
market, under a spacious awning, at the head of a long 
flight of steps, leading from the Rue de Republique. It 
is a great bazaar, where you could purchase anything to 
eat or to wear. I was specially interested in the great 
variety of native fruits and vegetables on sale. There 
you could see all classes of citizens, the lower classes 
prevailing. 

In Algiers there are 105,000 inhabitants. Of these, 
30,000 are Frenchmen, 25,000 Arabs, 20,000 Hebrews, 
and 15,000 Italians. There are also many 
a iona i les. Turks, Moors, English and Americans. We 
paid a visit to the stores and post-office to get some little 
souvenirs and mail letters home. 

The Turks, Arabs and Moors are peculiar in their busi- 
ness methods. They invariably ask at least three times 
as much for their wares as they expect to receive. If 
you pay their first price they are astonished, but receive 
what you give ; if you offer two-thirds, they are little less 
surprised, but will take your offer; but you are safe in 
offering about one-third of the stipulated sum. 

We then went to the dock, and embarked in a row- 
boat, manned by a Soudanese negro. He was the first 
person to ask me for "Backsheesh." 



ALGIERS. 



57 



At the appointed hour, five o'clock, we put out to sea. 
I was deeply impressed with the sight of the fine sea wall, 
as I thought of the fact that it was built by the labor of 
enslaved Christians, under the relentless lash of the 
Moors. 

There was a feeling of gratitude, mingled with pity, 
as I left this beautiful city to the west of us — gratitude 
that I had been permitted to see this place, and pity for 
the inhabitants, chiefly the women, who are so degraded 
and enslaved. There the first thing that meets you is the 
veiled woman. The poor creatures can never let their 
faces be seen. When you meet them, you see only their 
eyes. There is something most pathetic in the dark eyes, 
that look straight at you, as if to appeal for help. There 
is a great work for the western world to do here — espe- 
cially for the women, who must have much to do with 
the emancipation of their sex in the East, without their 
privileges and honors. 

The country of Algeria is controlled by France; and 
at the capital city French is the official language. 

The captain, with the Executive Committee and their 
wives, gave a reception to the cruisers that evening. At 
this reception the official badge of membership in the 
Jerusalem Convention was given. 

The first land we saw the next morning was the Gala- 
teas. These consist of one larger and several smaller 
rugged, rocky cliffs, which rise abruptly out of the water. 
From there the mainland can be seen, extending along 
to Cape Farina. The sand hills and slopes were seen 
distinctly as we sailed by. This looked quite familiar to 
one accustomed to seeing the sandhills of South Carolina 
and Georgia. Not a sign of vegetation could be seen on 
these hills, where the sand abounded. Elsewhere the sur- 



58 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



face, except where it was bare rock, appeared to be cov- 
ered with verdure and trees. 

Later on, we sighted the small, rocky island of Djamur. 
Then, away to the southeast, we could see the mainland, 
stretching on to Cape Bon. This is a prominent point, 
extending into the water, and receding promptly as soon 
as the point is made. There were two lighthouses to be 
seen, the one near the edge of the water, the other, a 
beacon, on the highest point, back of the great lighthouse. 

At noon we were in latitude 37 35', longitude 9 13' E. 
From Taylor, Texas, I had gone a little over one-fourth 
of the distance around the world. The Rev. Mr. Hatch, 
of Three Oaks, Mich., gave us a most delightful address 
on "The Knights Hospitalers of St. John." Dr. Jessup 
followed this with a suggestive talk on Malta. As we 
were to anchor in Valetta harbor at 6 a. m v and as we 
would have to rise very early for a sight of St. Paul's 
Bay, we retired without delay. 



CHAPTER VII. 



Malta. 



I WAS up before dawn, to get a sight of St. Paul's 
Bay as we passed. But all I could see was the light- 
house. As I looked out on the dark waters I tried to 
imagine what it meant to Paul, a prisoner, when he was 
in unknown waters, in a storm, which had lasted fourteen 
days. What a brave spirit it was that animated this 
faithful man of God ! Such experiences will help to a 
better realization and appreciation of the Apostle to the 
Gentiles. 

Immediately after breakfast I embarked in a gondola, 
carrying the star that showed it to be in the service of 
the cruise. On reaching the landing we took carriages 
that were in waiting. Then we drove to the Malta rail- 
way station, where we took the train for Citta Vecchia, 
seven miles away. As in Gibraltar, everything there is 
of the nature of a fortification. 

The Malta group is composed of three small islands : 
Malta, Gozo and Comino. Malta is seventeen miles in 
length by nine miles in breadth. The high- 
est point on the island is eight hundred and 
ninety-seven feet above sea level. Its population is two 
hundred thousand. The old capital is Citta Vecchia, built 
upon the highest prominence on the island. The present 
capital is Valetta, on the Grand Harbor, on the northeast 
of Malta. 

The land rises precipitously and boldly out of the water. 
As you approach, you would think it to be a barren, 



6o CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



inhospitable mass of rock. Such it was, practically, when 
first settled. Shiploads of soil were brought from Sicily, 
sixty miles to the north. The principal stone of the 
island is a soft sand and chalk-rock, which easily crum- 
bles, and is readily reduced to a soil that can be enriched. 
The fertilizer used is never wasted, because of the under- 
lying stratum, which prevents the richness of the soil 
from sinking, and thus being lost to the gardener and 
farmer. The hillsides are terraced with walls of these 
stones, gathered up and so placed to get them out of the 
way. Most of the soil is spaded or dug up with picks. 
They do not irrigate, but depend upon the rainfall, and 
the moisture of the sea, which envelops Malta as a robe. 
The gardens abound in barley, crimson clover, pulse, 
beans, onions, potatoes, artichokes and Maltese turnips. 
These turnips sit upon the surface, while only the roots 
penetrate the soil. The cedar, pine, privet and loquot are 
seen everywhere. 

In San Antonio Gardens, just outside Qtta Vecchia, 
we picked the oranges from the trees. That was an ideal 
spot. At the foot of the hill is a fine spring, which sup- 
plies the city of Valletta with water. The trains were 
crowded to their utmost, but the company was a happy 
one, and it did not matter if they. were a little uncom- 
fortable. From Museum station we were in the care of 
official guides, who did their work well. 

The first place visited was the catacombs. These were 
built by the Phoenicians, and were afterwards occupied 
by the Christians when oppressed by the 
Ancient capital. Turks All the dead bodies were then taken 

out and buried in the cemetery. There I saw the places 
where the Christians ground their grain, cooked, ate and 
slept. 

Then we went to St. Paul's Church. This remarkable 



MALTA. 



61 



structure is built upon the traditional site of the house 
in which Paul sojourned during the three months of his 
life on Malta. Over the doors there is an inscription in 
Latin to that effect. Under the dome there is a repro- 
duction of r Cor. ix. 2: "Si aliis non sum apostolus sed 
tamen vobis sum!' Behind the main altar is a wonderful 
series of paintings : "Paul's Conversion," "Paul Preaching 
to the People/' and "Paul's Shipwreck." But the largest 
and most impressive of these pictures was the one which 
represented Paul and the whole company standing around 
the fire built by the "barbarians." A viper springs out 
of the fire and fastens upon the apostle's hand, and is 
promptly shaken off into the fire. It is a fine picture. 
The artist has admirably succeeded in representing the 
look of consternation upon the faces of all the witnesses. 
These paintings are unveiled for a "consideration." There 
are several other large pictures of Paul in different parts 
of the church. The architecture here is Romanesque. 
The marble was wonderful, both as to character and 
abundance. 

Out in the cemetery, on the adjoining square, was a 
large statue of Paul, in marble. From this we went to 
the Cathedral, where the house of Publius used to stand. 
This imposing structure occupies a commanding position, 
overlooking the sea and Valetta and Sliema, lying at the 
water's edge. A magnificent view to the east and north 
could be enjoyed from that point. Here the architecture 
is Gothic in its style. The paintings are of immense pro- 
portions. There is a very large one here of the shipwreck 
of Paul, which is rather grotesque in its conception. 
St. Paul's Cathedral does not compare with St. Paul's 
Church. The decorations are less refined; and where 
marble is used in St. Paul's Church, it is wood and can- 
vass, painted, in the cathedral. At the cathedral door we 



62 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



took a carriage for the Governor's summer palace, and 
San Antonio Gardens, beyond. This was a grand drive. 
Everywhere you could enjoy a splendid prospect. We 
went to the top of one of the houses in the garden. It 
is all of stone — floors, roof, and all. There is a stable 
below, and the family live just above. Of course, this 
was one of the humbler houses. The stone steps led up 
on the outside, and were without banisters. The mangers 
were of stone. I never saw the crimson clover, the 
daisies, and oxalis, with its pure lemon yellow, more beau- 
tiful than they were there. We drove back directly to 
the station ; and on the way I jumped out and gathered 
some wild flowers to 'take home. 

Across the station to the north was the great "Imtarfa" 
Barracks, with a tower very similar to the one at the 
'Tost," in San Antonio, Texas. To the north of east 
from the station there stands 'the "second largest dome 
in the world." It is a chapel under the hill. We left on 
the first train for Valetta, in an observation car. One of 
the features of the railway line is the tunnels, which have 
been cut through the soft rock. This is also seen on a 
large scale about the quays, as in the case of the Victoria 
Gate, opening into the city. The principal thoroughfare 
of Valetta is "Strada Reale." 

We took lumch before beginning the excursion of the 
afternoon. We then went to the Cathedral of St. John. 

There the frescoing was beautiful. The 

Modern Capital. . J . , n • 1 • 

painter spent thirty-five years m his crea- 
tions, and would not accept a shilling for his life-work. 
Here is a painting of the Madonna, crowned with gold, 
said to be the work of St.. Luke ! It has to be unveiled 
and lighted up; then you must stand at a distance in 
order to be able to see it in its proper perspective. In 
a crypt below are several sarcophagi, splendid in char- 



MALTA. 



63 



acter. There is one of La Valette, the first "Grand Mas- 
ter of Knights of St. John," in Malta. Also, one of 
Adam, the chief of the same order in the island of Rhodes, 
before their expulsion by the Turks. Then there is one 
of St. John himself. This last is the most imposing of 
the three. On the lid of Vale'tte's is a bronze figure of 
the daring knight in his armor. The stone carving in this 
cathedral is most elaborate, so that you are caused to 
wonder greatly. The Latin is of 'the ancient type, certain 
forms of which are not familiar to one acquainted with 
Ciceronian Latin. 

From this cathedral we went to the Governor's winter 
palace. Here is found the finest collection of armor 
outside of London. Here are the equipments that were 
worn and wielded by La Valette and Adam. From the 
helmet to the sandals, offensive and defensive armor, is 
complete. Here, too, the coach used by Valette is pre- 
served in the middle of the hall. Napoleon is said to 
have been the last man who rode in it. Here, also, is an 
old palanquin, the first one that I remember to have seen. 
You see there the stone cannon balls used in the ancient 
mortars. One double-barrelled flint and steel shot-gun 
is seen in the armory. One barrel is placed under the 
other. Two old spiked clubs are there. They are exceed- 
ingly cruel examples of death-dealing weapons. 

All of this is full of interest to one who knows some- 
thing of the deadly conflict that was waged between the 
Moslem and the Christian. Thence we went to the 
"Chapel of Bones," where a crypt is lined and decorated 
with human bones — a most gruesome picture ! With a 
sigh of relief one turns away from this ghastly exhibition. 
One explanation is that these are the bones of thousands 
of Christians who were killed by the Moslems before 
Malta was won for the cross. 



64 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



We walked from this to the market, where we quite 
enjoyed the sight. The final object of our sight-seeing 
was the Baracca Garden. From the Victoria Piazza, in 
the grounds, we had a most glorious view of the sea, the 
grand harbor, Fort St. Elmo, the custom-house, the dry- 
docks and the British men-of-war. Britain owns Malta, 
and the land is leased to the inhabitants for occupation. 
Of course, the official language is English. In full view 
of Victoria Piazza is the monument of Ball, standing in a 
commanding position on St. Elmo. 

Of the population of Malta, ten thousand are British 
soldiers. The Highland Regiment are most picturesque, 
with their kilts and coats-of-arms. The natives are a 
mixed race, with Italian 'and Arabian ancestors, and, as 
might be expected, their language is a composite of like 
character. 

Malta is second only to Gibraltar, in the British Em- 
pire, as an impregnable fortress. The advantage of Malta 
to Great Britain, from a military point of view, is ines- 
timable. Its position is central, with reference to the 
Levant ; it provides an inexhaustible coaling station, and 
its dry-dock is of the greatest importance to the navy. 
The streets of Malta's capital are narrow and well kept. 
The surface is very hilly. One of the first things to notice 
is the style of vehicle. It is the Maltese victoria we used 
in Gibraltar. Another characteristic is the Faldetta, 
which the ladies wear. This bonnet is universally worn. 
I would not be rash enough to attempt a description of 
this headgear, but would recommend it to my fair friends 
at home were it not for the fact that it would take out of 
their lives one of their highest privileges — their interest 
in the millinery openings. These "openings" are unknown 
in Malta. 



MALTA. 



65 



Our visit to Malta was quite an event in the history 
of the place. They do not see much of their neighbors, 
for obvious reasons. 

_One of the most interesting features of Malta is the 
lace industry. In Vecchia and Valetta the bazaar is the 
rule. Maltese lace is world-famed, their patterns being 
found only in Malta. On shipboard before sailing there 
was a busy scene. The last purchases were being made. 
Here many hundreds were spent, by both men and 
women, in lace souvenirs. 

The •eight-point cross, brought from Rhodes by the 
Knights of St. John, is the distinctive emblem of Malta. 
As the Malthese cat is a favorite in our households, it 
would be of special interest to the children to know that 
this island is the home of their attractive pet. 

Great crowds of people lined the galleries to wave 
"good-bye" to us, as we steamed out of the port, at 5 p. m. 

The captain had promised that we should 

Where Paul was , have ft d ^ Q f g t p aurs g seyen 
Shipwrecked. ° •* 

miles west of Valetta. So we turned out of 
our way for this purpose. At the proper time it was 
announced, and the bay was pointed out. There "a cer- 
tain creek with a shore" remains to this day the same, 
for the shore is of imperishable rock. The "place where 
two seas met," and where the Alexandrian ship went to 
pieces, from the nature of the case, must ever remain 
unchanged. On a rock in the bay there stands a fine 
marble statue of the great apostle, to commemorate this 
thrilling incident in his eventful life. 

I can never describe my feelings as I looked on the 
place where as great an example of courage and faith as 
is found in history was seen. From this point we turned 
seaward, and were off for historic Greece. The moon 



66 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



looked down upon us, and the stars also, and smiled, as 
we thanked God for the pleasure and profit that he had 
given us. That night Dr. JessUp delivered a most instruc- 
tive address on "Forty-eight Years a Missionary in 
Syria." Tired and grateful, we laid us down to sleep. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Athens. 

THE next day was one of no special interest, as we 
were on the way to Athens, the "Eye of Greece, 
and Mother of Arts and Eloquence." Toward sundown 
a bird, that I took to be a swallow, flew on deck, and flitted 
about like a discontented passenger. This assured us 
that we were nearing land. Soon we sighted the revolv- 
ing light on Cape Matapan. We did not sail in sight of 
the island of Crete, but left it to the south. About ten 
o'clock we could see two other lights, one on each side. 

During the evening we had a classic lecture on Athens, 
by Mr. Henry Houk, of Pennsylvania, Superintendent of 
Public Instruction for the Keystone State. Following 
this was a brief address by Mr. Goldthwaite, upon the 
Athenians as men of thought, which was embodied in 
literature, architecture, sculpture and philosophy. 

My purpose was ito rise early the next morning to see 
the Acropolis, as we entered the harbor of Piraeus. Ac- 
At Anchor cording to plan, I was up and saw the 
in Piraeus. "mother of dawn, the rosy-fingered morn- 
ing appear," from out the "starry kirtled night." The 
opalescent east was a scene of quiet glory. We came to 
anchor in the harbor, where were lying three large Aus- 
trian men-of-war and a forest of other craft of every 
description. The large freight steamer is the chief feature 
of the shipping at Piraeus. 

After breakfast we were landed by tenders and row- 
boats, all flying United States flags. A walk across the 



68 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



square from the quay brought us to the cars waiting to 
transport us to Athens, five miles distant. The run 
through olive groves and farms is quickly made. 

On arrival at Athens, we left the train at Theseion 
station, where we took carriages for the day. The only 
trouble about the drive proved to be the inability of the 
driver to speak English; but we managed, through the 
guides, to get a pretty good general view of the city the 
first day. 

We took dinner at the Hotel Splendid, and then spent 
the afternoon much as we had the morning, in locating 
different places of interest and in visiting the museums. 
Late, we returned by rail to Piraeus, to spend the night 
on the ship — a very tired multitude. 

Saturday morning we were up and breakfasted about 
three-quarters of an hour earlier than usual. With my 
chief objects friend Gongaware, I then went out and pur- 

ofinterest. chased a guide book on Greece. With this 
we located, with great satisfaction, the Temple of the 
Olympian Jove, Hadrian's Arch, Theatre of Bacchus, 
Temple of iEsculapius, Theatre of Herod Atticus, Soc- 
rates' Prison, the Acropolis, with the Parthenon, Temple 
of Victory, Propylae, Temple of the Virgins, Museum, 
and the Belvidere. The other places were : Monument 
of Philopappos, Hill of the Pnyx, Hill of the Nymphs, 
Mars Hill, Tomb of Kimon, Theseus Temple, Monument 
of Lisocra'tes, Stoa of Hadrian, Old Cemetery, Stoa of 
Attalos, Gate of the Agora, Gymnasium, Tower of the 
Winds, together with the old Roman Market Place, and 
last, the restored Stadion. 

The origin of Athens, like that of Rome, is veiled in 
the clouds of uncertainty. But according to Heroditus, 
the Greek historian, the ancient capital of 
Attica was founded by Cecrops, the Egypt- 



ATHENS. 



69 



ian, in the year 1556 B. C. The city was first called 
Cecropia, and afterwards the name Athense was given 
it in honor of the goddess Athene, who guarded the 
interests of the Acropolis. A gold and ivory statue of 
this deity, thirty-nine feet in height, the work of Phidias, 
was, in the process of time, erected just inside the 
Propyls. 

The citadel occupied the level plateau of a limestone hill, 
whose sides rose perpendicularly to a height of several 
Acropolis, hundred feet above the surface of the ground 
surrounding it. This plateau would measure a little more 
than five hundred by one thousand feet. On this sacred 
area were assembled some of their most notable struc- 
tures : the Parthenon, or Temple of Minerva, the Erech- 
theion and the Temple of Athene Nike, or the ''Wingless 
Victory." The Parthenon was the most faultless speci- 
men of ancient art, and surpassed all other buildings in 
the classic city, both in its design and realization. Its 
foundation measures 101 by 228 feet. The temple is sup- 
ported by forty-six fluted Doric columns, eight on each 
end and fifteen on each side. The columns are thirty-five 
feet in height, with basal and capital diameters, 6 feet 
3 inches and 4 feet 10 inches, respectively. These columns 
formed the outside .framework of the temple. Besides 
these, there are sixteen other large and thirty-six smaller 
columns in this splendid structure. The entire temple 
is built of Pentelic marble, and in its ruins, after two and 
a half millenniums, it commands the admiration of every 
lover of art. The Parthenon was the proudest triumph 
of Greek architecture. 

The Erechtheion is constructed upon a design distinc- 
tively Ionic, and was built to hold the shrines of Athene. 
Its length is not over sixty-six feet, while its width is 
only thirty-seven feet. The front of this temple, facing 



7o CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the south, is guarded and ornamented by six columns, 
with richly carved capitals. These pillars are two and a 
half feet in diameter, are twenty-two feet high, and are 
decorated with twenty- four flutes each. Like the Par- 
thenon and Theseion, the Erechtheion was once occupied 
as a Christian church ; and as the Parthenon was at one 
time used as a Mohammedan mosque, so was the Erech- 
theion desecrated as the harem of a Turkish Pasha. 

The Temple of the Wingless Victory I found exceed- 
ingly attractive. It stands on the extreme southwest 
corner of the Acropolis plateau, the dimensions of its 
foundation being eighteen by twenty-seven feet. The 
sides of this beautiful temple face east and west. The 
columns number only eight, four being arranged at each 
end. Like the other temples on the Acropolis, the temple 
of Nike Apteros is built of the favorite Pentelic marble. 
The occasion of the erection of this sanctuary is said to 
have been a victory of the Athenians over the Persians. 
Previously, vistories of the Atheneans had taken wings 
and departed from them. This time they determined to 
make a repetition of this calamity impossible; hence, 
they erected a temple to Nike Apteros, or Wingless Vic- 
tory, so that the success of their arms over their enemies 
might remain with them forever. 

The Acropolis was the centre of ancient Athens, and 
was considered the very heart of Attica. It is situated 
five miles from the harbor of Piraeus, with which it was 
connected by the two famous long walls, 
built by the unrivalled genius of Themis- 
tocles. The popular interest in the erection of these walls 
is shown 'by the fact that the women and children enthu- 
siastically gave their time and labor for the promotion 
of the enterprise. 

The golden age of Athens was embraced within the 



ATHENS. 



7i 



fifth century, B. C, during the administration of Pericles. 

At that time Athens numbered among her 
inhabitants one hundred thousand free citi- 
zens, with over two hundred thousand slaves. Ancient 
Athens has had no rival in the history of the world. 
She furnished the university for all the nations ; and to 
her schools of letters, science and art the brightest 
scholars from all countries flocked. So unquestioned was 
her supremacy, that she has reigned in the realm of cul- 
ture, having been crowned queen by all the centres of 
learning, for the past three thousand years, while no 
institution has risen to dispute her right to the throne. 
Even in the twentieth century of the Christian era, she 
supplies the models for the artist, the philosopher and the 
rhetorician. 

The Temple of Jupiter was surpassed, in size and mag- 
nificence, by only one other Greek sanctuary, that of 
On the Banks Diana, at Ephesus, Asia Minor. The foun- 
ofiiissos. dation is 171 feet by 354. The temple was 
adorned by one hundred and twenty-two huge fluted 
Corinthian columns, placed in two rows, of twenty each, 
on each side ; three rows, of eight each, at each end. 
The sides of the structure look toward the north and 
south. These columns measure sixty-one feet in height 
and six feet in diameter. To-day sixteen of those grace- 
ful shafts remain to point to the glory of the great temple, 
that required seven hundred years for its completion. 
This splendid pile was called by Philostratus "a struggle 
with time," and -by Aristotle "a work of despotic gran- 
deur." The sacred enclosure of the temple measured 
426 by 676 feet. The temple proper held a noble statue 
of Jupiter Olympus, made of ivory and gold, the fins'hed 
work of the genius of Phidias. 

Mars Hill stands directly west of the Acropolis. Upon 



72 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



this eminence you look down from the Propylse. It rises 
about four hundred feet above the street 

The Hill of Mars . , _ ..'..,« 

at its western base. It was distinguished 
as the place where the Supreme Court of Athens sat. 
This court was invested with great dignity, and was 
charged with the care of the morals of the city. Their 
meetings were held in the open air, and they took cog- 
nizance of blasphemy, profanity, and other offences 
against the gods. 

In the year 52 A. D., the Apostle Paul went from Berea 
to Rome, where he remained for two years. 

While he waited for Timothy and Silas, his spirit was 
stirred within him, as he saw the city wholly given to 
idolatry. In the synagogue he discussed 

Paul in Athens. . \ . . , , T 

living doctrines with the Jews and devout 
persons, and in the market-place he daily met with the 
Epicurean and Stoic philosophers. 

Before the court of Areopagus Paul was brought by 
the multitude, that they might know what the "babbler," 
who seemed "to be a setter forth of strange gods/' would 
have. to say for himself. This furnished the occasion for 
one of the most admirable addresses ever delivered by 
the lips of man. In this wonderful sermon the splendid 
tact and Christ-like faithfulness of this gifted servant of 
God were brilliantly exhibited. 

During Paul's sojourn in Athens he wrote two of the 
pastoral epistles, First and Second Thessalonians. 

The history of ancient Athens was a most checkered 
one. She passed through varied forms of government, 
from an absolute monarchy to a pure 

Ancient Athens. - T , 1 . Jlt . ,. 

democracy. It was during the democratic 
rule that Athens attained her highest prosperity. 

Attica was frequently invaded by the armies of Persia, 
Macedonia, Lacedemonia, Rome and Turkey. In their 



ATHENS. 



73 



die fences the most brilliant achievements in the history of 
warfare were won by the Greeks. The immortal heroism 
of Leonidas and the three hundred at Thermopylae will 
ever remain amongst the most thrilling exploits of the 
field of battle. 

In June, 1822, the Greeks regained possession of the 
Acropolis at Athens, and twelve years later Athens be- 
came the capital of the kingdom of Greece. 
At that time, 1834, there could not have been 
more than fifteen hundred inhabitants in Athens. At the 
present the population cannot be less than two hundred 
thousand. 

The present sovereign, King George, is beloved and 
honored by his people, who are apparently happy and 
prosperous. His majesty extended a courteous invitation 
to our party to visit his royal palace. 

Modern Athens lies mainly to the north and east of the 
Acropolis, while the west and south are scarcely built up 
at all. 

The streets are well laid out, and the stores would do 
credit to any large, progressive European city. The lan- 
guage of the city is modern Greek, and one who has a 
working knowledge of Attic Greek has but little trouble 
in reading the newspapers and in understanding the lan- 
guage of the present-day Atheneans. But it looked 
strange enough to see the names of the streets spelled out 
in Greek characters. How very singular did it seem to 
look up and find that you were walking in the "street of 
Alexander the Great," "Themistocles," "Dionysius the 
Areopagite," or of the "Apostle Paul." 

Of course, the interest of the devout student centres in 
the Acropolis and Mars Hill. To one standing on the 
Acropolis, the splendid ruins of the magnificent monu- 



74 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 

merits of ancient Athens are inspiring in the highest 
degree, and eloquent of the glorious past. 

As I stood by the Temple of Victory, beside the 
Propylae, at sunset, on a cloudless evening-, 

A Superb View. . , , , , , , . 

and looked toward the west, the glowing 
description came vividly before me : 

" Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race be run, 
Along Morea's hills the setting sun; 
O'er the hushed deep the yellow beam he throws, 
Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows. 
On old iEgina's rock and Idra's isle, 
The god of gladness sheds his parting smile; 
Descending fast, the mountain shadows kiss 
The glorious gulf, unconquered Salamis! 
Till, darkly shaded from the land and deep, 
Behind his Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep." 

The statue of Byron is of great interest for two rea- 
sons : on account of the beautiful poem, "The Maid of 
Athens," and also for its pure artistic beauty. 

Before leaving the city, I ascended the mountain of 
Likabettos, crowned by the monastery of St. George. 
From this vantage point I saw the yEgean Sea, Bay of 
Salamis, Hymettos (Honey) Mountains, Pentelikos, 
Parnes, Hermes, and, away to the west, sixty miles dis- 
tant, the Akro-Corinth. 

At noon we had an elegant lunch at the Hotel Bretagne. 
Also we had the pleasure of a visit at the residence of 
Dr. Kalopathakes, a native Presbyterian minister. His 
charming wife was a native of Montreal. After another 
hard day's work we returned to the Grosser Kurfuerst. 

That night Dr. and Mrs. Kalopathakes were the guests 
of the ship. During the evening we enjoyed a most inter- 
esting and instructive address, on the work of Protestant 
missions in Greece, from the venerable Doctor. 



ATHENS. 



75 



With possibly a half dozen exceptions, the cruisers 
made the pilgrimage to the Areopagus, when Mar's Hill 
was covered with devout worshippers. A 
fine sermon was preached by Dr. John Potts, 
of Toronto, on Acts xvii. 18. His theme was "J esus and 
the Resurrection." Mr. Jacobs, of New York, led the 
chorus, and Dr. Gates, president of the Robert College, 
Constantinople, read, in concert with all the people, the 
latter part of the seventeenth chapter of Acts. Prayer 
was offered by Rev. Mr. Lowden, of Providence, R. L, 
and the benediction was pronounced by the writer. Be- 
sides the one thousand from the ship, there were hundreds 
of native Christians present on that memorable occasion. 
The service was very simple, solemn and impressive. We 
could but picture the intrepid Paul, as he stood before 
the Supreme Court of Athens, "in the midst of Mar's 
Hill," and pronounced that matchless defence of the car- 
dinal principles of his stalwart faith. 

We returned to the Kurfuerst for late lunch. There 
was no session of the cruise Sabbath-school that after- 
noon. When supper was over, Dr. Gates, with the Dean 
of the American College for Girls, in Scutari, and others, 
addressed the cruisers on the educational interests of the 
American Board of Missions. This proved to be a de- 
lightful meeting. I was overwhelmed by my visit to the 
classic city. I found the people exceedingly polite. It 
was a wonderful privilege to have been permitted to visit 
the ancient city, that produced more great men, within 
a generation, than all the rest of the world did, in the 
same period. What breaks the heart of the lovers of 
culture and art is the universal desecration of that which 
was so sacred to the Greeks, and which represented the 
best thought of the palmiest days of Athens. 

After a delightful sail out of the Piraeus harbor, and 



7 6 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the last, lingering look at the receding Parthenon and 
Minerva's Mount, I had the pleasure of a nearer view of 
Salamis and the iEgean. I stood for hours on the prow 
of the vessel, and feasted my eyes upon the scenes on each 
Goast, as we sailed majestically along. We could see, 
around the point of land to our left, the battle-ground of 
Marathon, where the Greeks and Persians met in mortal 
combat. 



CHAPTER IX. 



Constantinople. 

FROM Athens to Constantinople, the countries between 
which we sailed, were so full of historic interest that 
one seemed to be living in past ages. The geographical 
features that were most prominent were the Hellespont 
(or Dardanelles) and the Sea of Marmora. The surface 
of this sea was as smooth as marble, to which fact it owes 
its name. A few miles out from Constantinople we met 
the Kaiserin Maria Theresa, and marconigraphed a mes- 
sage, while that companion ship circled to greet us. She 
was beautifully decorated 1 in our honor. 

Constantinople was made the metropolis of the Roman 
Empire in the year 330 A. D., by the first Christian 
Emperor. 

The new capital consisted in the enlargement, fortifica- 
NewRome. tion and adornment of the ancient city of 
Byzantium, a Grecian city, founded by emigrants from 
Megara in 667 B. C. 

From this it will appear that Byzantium was one thou- 
sand years old before its name was changed to Con- 
stantinople. 

In the "City of Constantine" four of the general coun- 
cils of the church were held — 381, 553, 681 and 869 
A. D. 

Since 1447 this has been a Mohammedan city. 

The geographical position of the Capital of the Otto- 
man Empire is unsurpassed in the world. 
Through the Bosporus, the Dardanelles, the 



78 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Straits of Gibraltar and the Suez Canal, it commands 
every sea, and has access to every country on the globe. 

If the City on the Golden Horn were in the hands of 
Anglo-Saxons, it would be to-day the metropolis of the 
world. 

The view of the city of Constantine, as we approached 
in the bright light of the afternoon, was indescribable. The 
mosques and minarets, the Tower of Seraskerat, and the 
old walls of the city, with their seven towers, were among 
the most prominent objects in the extended prospect 
spread out before us. 

The city of Constantine comprises about one million, 
though it is very difficult to find out, even approximately, 
the population of any city in the Ottoman Empire. 
Greater Constantinople embraces Stamboul, south of the 
Golden Horn, Galata-Pera, north of this arm of the sea, 
and Scutari, just opposite, on the Asiatic shore. Stam- 
boul is the ancient city. The chief city of Turkey is 
located at the meeting of the Bosporus and the Golden 
Horn with the Sea of Marmora. 

At seven in the evening we made fast to the dock on 
the Galata side, a few hundred yards from the Galata 
pontoon bridge. Old Stamboul, called by Constantine 
"New Rome," was built upon seven hills, like the city of 
Romulus. The sight of the thousands that were on the 
quay to see us enter port was a novel one. The red fez 
on the head of four-fifths of the men presented the picture 
of a garden of deep red poppies after sunset. 

Owing to the fact that we had to hand in our passports 
for inspection, we could not land till next day. After a 
night-long serenade by the town pets, the pariah dogs, 
we welcomed the day. With three of the party, I started 
in a carriage, early, to see the sights. During the morn- 
ing we visited the great Santa Sophia Mosque, once a 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



79 



Christian church. Thence we drove to the 

Seraglio Point. . • 1 • j t» • 

treasury, where we saw an inlaid Persian 
throne, set with rubies and emeralds, captured from 
Ismael, the Shah of Persia, by Sultan Selim L, in 15 14. 
Also, we saw a fine collection of Turkish arms and armor. 

Upstairs is the throne of Sultan Ahmed III., made of 
precious wood, inlaid with tortoise shell, and set with 
turquoises and a large emerald. This is an exquisite 
specimen of early Turkish art. There, too, we saw the 
state robes and aigretted turbans worn by various Sultans, 
from Mohammed II. to Mahmud, the Reformer. There 
is, sitting in one of the glass cases, an Egyptian figure, 
made out of a single pearl. Here we saw the Throne 
Hall, the throne being a large divan. 

In the Royal Library, next to the Throne Hall, we were 
entertained, by order of the Sultan, with Turkish coffee, 
rose jelly and wafers. 

From there we went to Bagdad Kiosk, to which the 
Sultan comes to worship at the shrine of the Prophet's 
cloak. The style of this palace is after the model of one 
in Bagdad. Its walls are artistically decorated with blue 
tiles, of the best workmanship, and the inside of the 
cupola is covered with deerskin. The inlaid mother-of- 
pearl arabesques on the doors, divans and chairs are worth 
a visit. Bagdad Kiosk, standing on Seraglio Point, com- 
mands a fine view of the harbor, Galata and Pera. 

We next visited the Imperial palace, the finest of all 
the places of residence of the Sultan. There was a mag- 
nificence about the royal mansion that could be equalled 
only by the lavish richness of the Treasury. The bath- 
rooms were of Egyptian alabaster, and the cost of con- 
struction was fabulous. 

Other features of this great building that should be 
mentioned are the inlaid work in the floors and ceilings, 



8o CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the exquisitely wrought silk curtains, the frescoes, the 
crystal chandeliers, and the Throne Room, with its 
Corinthian columns. The arched gateways were magnifi- 
cent, and the garden faultlessly kept. 

In the afternoon we drove across the Galata Bridge to 
the Hippodrome, in which is to be seen the Serpent 
Column. This monument is composed of three bronze 
serpents, standing on their tails, and twisted spirally 
around each other. This column originally served as a 
stand for the golden tripod of Pythia, the High-priestess 
of Apollo, at the Oracle of Delphi. In this Forum stands 
the Obelisk of Theodosius the Great, a monolith sixty-one 
feet in height and six feet square. This was brought from 
the Temple of the Sun, at Heliopolis, Egypt, where it was 
erected by Thotmes III., 1600 B. C. A third monument 
in the Hippodrome is the Colossus, or Built Column, an 
obelisk of masonry, ninety-four feet in height. The 
Porphyry, or Burnt Column, was originally one hundred 
and twenty feet high, but is at present only ninety feet in 
height. It is composed of six blocks of porphyry, so 
cleverly joined as to look like a monolith. It formerly 
supported a bronze statue of Apollo. This column, with 
the statue, was brought from Rome. 

We dismissed our driver at the Hippodrome, and 
walked through the bazaars back to the boat. After 

Moonlight supper we went out to see the city by the 
Tramp. light of the moon. There are no electric 
lights or telephones anywhere in the domain of the Sultan. 
We had a memorable walk, among the people and around 
the dogs, for these pariahs, being the proteges of the city, 
never give themselves the trouble to move out of your 
way. These dogs are sacred to the people of Constan- 
tinople. In 340 B. C. Philip of Macedon laid siege to the 
city. Just as he was about to effect an entrance, through 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



81 



subterranean passages, the dogs, aroused by the rising of 
the new moon, began to bark. This awakened the sleep- 
ing garrison, and saved the city from the surprise of the 
Macedonians. From that time no dog, however worthless 
and unattractive, has ever been struck or kicked out of 
Symbol of the wav by an inhabitant. Visitors are 

Empire. scrupulous in the respect paid by them to 
these mangy citizens. This historic fact is also the origin 
of the adoption of the crescent and star as the emblem 
of the Byzantines, and afterwards of the Turks. 

While we were in port the evenings were occupied with 
addresses on Constantinople by Dr. Van Millingen, of 
Robert College, and the Hon. Mr. Dickinson, United 
States Consul-General to Constantinople. Practically the 
freedom of the city had been officially presented to us by 
the Sultan. Unusual privileges, on that account, were 
enjoyed by us. Again we were serenaded by the pariahs, 
and again we endeavored to feel quite refreshed on rising 
to begin the next day. 

We attended three splendid excursions: to Robert 
College, to the American College for Girls, in Scutari, 
Asiatic Constantinople, and up the Golden Horn to the 
"Sweet Waters of Europe." I accepted the last only, and, 
on the steamer John, made the delightful sail. The 
Golden Horn derives its name from its resemblance to a 
ram's horn. This arm of the Bosporus is six miles in 
length, with an average width of four hundred and ninety 
yards and a mean depth of twenty-three fathoms. The 
"Sweet Waters of Europe" are at the confluence of two 
small streams, the Kedaris and the Vorvisses, and are 
so named because their waters are fresh, in contrast with 
the salt waters of the Bosporus and Golden Horn. 

On disembarking at Galata Bridge, Gongaware and I 
went to visit the bazaars. That was a rich treat. Any 



82 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Oriental shops, and everything was to be found in that end- 
less labyrinth of market and manufacture. It is here 
that you see a certain important side of life. From that 
district we found our way to the highest structure in the 
capital of Turkey, Seraskerat Tower. At the top we were 

Bird's Eye rewarded with a panoramic view of the 
view. Marmora, the Bosporus, the Golden Horn, 

Scutari, Stamboul, Galata and Pera. From that tower 
a definite idea of the character of the surface, both on 
the European and Asiatic sides, can be obtained. Here, 
too, after having been in the city long enough to get a 
general notion of it, one could locate, with tolerable satis- 
faction, the places of greatest interest. We climbed down, 
and next visited the cistern of Philoxenus, or the "Cistern 
of a Thousand and One Columns." This cistern was used 
by the people hundreds of years ago — for Stamboul was 
founded several centuries before Christ. 

Then we went to the "Imperial Museum of Antiqui- 
ties." Here we saw some remarkable exhibits. Among 
them might be mentioned the tomb of one of Alexander 
the Great's generals. But the most beautiful of all is 
that of the "Mourners." This is a marble sarcophagus, 
ornamented with relief figures, representing the mourning 
woman, in eighteen different postures. I have never seen 
anything more chaste and true to nature. You can find 
no fault with either the conception or the execution. 
There, also, are statues of Apollo, Venus, Samson, 
Achilles, Jupiter, Mars and Hercules. Some of the oldest 
inscriptions to be found in the world are here. Many of 
those noble fragments were brought by the Turks from 
Athens, some from Tyre and Sidon, and many from 
Egypt. From the Museum we proceeded to the "Sublime 
Porte." This gate was erected by Mohammed IL, and 
was the principal entrance through the wall into the 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



83 



Seraglio. From this gate the capital of the Ottoman Em- 
pire derives its name. 

That afternoon I spent in walking through the bazaars 
arid side streets of Pera and Galata, and also on the 
European. "Grande Rue de Pera," the Fifth avenue of 
Constantinople. Standing at one corner, I counted forty- 
five pariah dogs, and it was not a very good corner for 
dogs, either. These citizens are the scavengers of the 
city, and resemble coyotes more than anything else that I 
have seen. 

Nothing interested me more than the buffaloes and 
"cataloes/' which they use as oxen. There is a fine strain 
of Arabian blood in the horses of the city. 

In the evening we had another lecture on Constanti- 
nople, by Attorney Pens, the able historian. This was a 
masterful address, and was fully appreciated by all who 
had enjoyed 'the privilege of a visit to this great, historic 
city. 



CHAPTER X. 



Smyrna and Ephesus. 

THURSDAY morning we were off by seven o'clock 
sharp. We went up the Bosporus to the Black Sea. 
As we passed Robert College, both going and coming, 
all the faculty and students were out to greet us. The 
great flag on 'the mast at the College dipped in our honor, 
and our whistle blew three deafening blasts in response. 
All the American flags that we could command were put 
into use. Those who did not have flags used handker- 
chiefs ; also, the College people waved everything from 
a 'handkerchief to a red blanket. It was a great ovation. 

The sail through the Bosporus is interesting, from the 
points of view of natural beauty and history. The strait 
a Trip to the * s nineteen miles long; i'ts greatest width 
Eusine. i s two and one-fifth miles ; its narrowest, 
eight hundred and ten yards. The depth of water varies 
from twenty to sixty-six fathoms. Its direction is NN. E. 
to SS. W. The current sets steadily from the Black Sea 
to the Marmora, while an undercurrent is setting in the 
opposite direction. The average speed of the current is 
four knots an hour. Bosporus derives its name from a 
Greek term, meaning ox-passage. This had its origin in 
mythology, where Io, changed by Jupiter into a heifer, 
swam across these straits. The Bosporus is one of the 
most picturesque places in all Europe, and is a succession 
of woodland, hill and dale, covered with villages, reaching 
down to the water's edge, and dotted with white marble 
palaces, situated among groves of trees, and surrounded 



SMYRNA AXD EPHESUS. 



85 



with gardens. The most important of 'these palaces is 
the Yildiz Kiosk, where the present Sultan resides. This 
Kiosk is surrounded by barracks, where a large force of 
Imperial Guards are quartered. Just above Robert Col- 
lege is the place where Darius transported his forces into 
Europe on a pontoon bridge. We sailed for some dis- 
tance into the Black Sea, but not far enough to be within 
range of the guns of the Russian fleet ! 

On returning to Constantinople, our guides bade us 
farewell and left 'the ship. The pilot had to stay on board 
while we were in the Marmora, and till we reached the 
fortifications in the Hellespont, where seven Turkish men- 
of-war lay at anchor. There Xerxes, in 480 B. C, put 
his army across into Europe, and Alexander the Great, 
in 334 B. C, his army into Asia, by means of pontoon 
bridges, reaching from Sestos, in Europe, to Abydos, on 
the Asiatic side. Here young Leander nightly swam 
across to visit Hero — a feat performed in modern times 
by Lord Byron for ''glory." 

The Dardanelles is a narrow channel, separating 
Europe from Asia, and uniting the Sea of Marmora with 
the Grecian Archipelago. Its length is forty miles, and 
its breadth varies from one to four miles. From the Mar- 
mora a strong current runs through the 
strategic Pass, gfrgfa to the Archipelago. The Dardanelles 
is the key which the Turk holds against Russia and all 
the nations of Western Europe. The strait is strongly 
fortified, both on the European and Asiatic shores, with 
many guns of immense calibre. No vessel can pass this 
stronghold without the consent of the Sultan. 

Just outside the Narrows, on the Asiatic side, is the 
site of ancient Troy. There, at "Troas," Paul had the 
vision, and heard the voice calling him to go to Mace- 
donia to preach the gospel to the Gentiles. 



86 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



At 8 : 45, President McLaughlin, of the "International 
College" at Smyrna, addressed us on "The History of 
the Group of the Seven Churches in Asia," 

^rchurcLs. with s P ecial to the missionary 

work that is being done by himself and his 
colleagues in Asia Minor. This mission is a most suc- 
cessful one. A handsome offering was made by the 
cruisers in support of this work. 

At seven the next morning we anchored in Smyrna 
harbor, and by nine we were seated in the tram-cars on 
the quay, for the Ottoman railway station, a mile away. 
The cayster About six hundred of the pilgrims took the 

valley. side-trip to Ephesus, fifty miles distant. 
Soon we were on our way to the city of ancient Ephesus, 
on the south. The road is a most delightful one. Beau- 
tiful, rugged, abrupt mountains and fertile valleys are 
to be seen on each side of the railway. Hundreds of 
flocks of fat-tailed Syrian sheep, with their cloaked Ara- 
bian shepherds, were a source of constant pleasure. The 
black water-buffaloes, the camel trains, and the storks, 
were entirely new to us. The stork is white, except as 
to its wings, which are black. Its beak and legs are red 
and long. The fig and olive orchards, the ancient plow, 
with one handle, the oxen plowing — all pointed to the 
classic and historic past. Intensive farming is by no 
means a modern enterprise, for it was practiced in this 
fertile region millenniums ago, as is evinced by the his- 
tory and poetry of the ancients. In the writings of Homer 
the Cayster Valley is mentioned. 

We left the train at Ayasaluk, the modern name for 
Ephesus. This term is a Turkish translation of the Greek 
The city of Hagios Theologos, or "Holy Theologian,'' 

st. John. the name given to the Apostle John, who 
resided and preached in this ancient metropolis of Asia 
Minor. 



SMYRNA AND EPHESUS. 87 



With our guide we went first to the old aqueduct, mag- 
nificent in its ruins. Nothing remains standing but the 
great pillars and fragments of the channel that conveyed 
the water. Upon the tops of these ruins the storks have 
built their huge nests of sticks. These interesting birds 
stand, sometimes on one foot, sometimes on two, as sober, 
solemn sentinels. Next, we were shown one of the 
churches of St. John. There were several Christian 
organizations in the city, and the Epistle to the Ephesians 
was to the entire body of believers in that place. The 
ruins show the splendid character of the church, while 
evidences of earthquakes are abundant. Thence we 
walked to the Roman Citadel, on the Acropolis. A walk 
of a 'half mile led us to the ruins of the Mosque of Sultan 
Selim, where there are two columns from the Temple of 
Diana. A gigantic fig-tree fills one of the apartments, and 
stretches its long arms over the high walls. This is one 
of the historic places of worship of the Mohammedans, 
and has been in ruins about a thousand years. From 
there we went to visit an ancient Turkish bath. 

Next we visited one of the "Seven Wonders of the 
Greatest Greek World," the Temple of Diana. The temple 
Temple. had one hundred and twenty-seven pillars, 

and was first destroyed in the year 658 B. C. Until 
recently it was buried some thirty feet below the surface 
by the accumulated debris of the centuries. The work of 
excavation is still being prosecuted. The incomparable 
splendor of this structure is revealed in the fluted columns 
of marble, the exquisitely carved capitals, architraves and 
pediments. 

The Temple of Serapis was the next object of our 
sight-seeing. This shows the Egyptian origin of many 
of the ancient Ephesians. Near by is the sea-gate. Ephe- 
sus was built at the mouth of the river Cayster, and was 



88 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



once the chief seaport of Asia Minor. By the silting of 
the Cayster the shore-line 'has been removed six miles 
to the west. You can hardly believe your eyes when you 
stand on the old quay, and look at the broad marsh, which 
was once the harbor of Ep'hesus. On the top of the sea- 
gate was the Roman palace. Close to this was the 
Stadium, and a little further on, the gate of the old city 
came into view. Then, away up to the west, was the 
prison of St. Paul, crowning the summit of the hill. We 
passed the Gymnasium and Baptistery on the way to the 
Theatre of Ephesus. Here Paul encoun- 
tered a tumult, which was raised by Demet- 
rius, the contractor for silver shrines, or images of the 
moon-goddess, "which fell down from Jupiter." The 
statue of Diana stood in the great temple erected for her 
worship. The grasp which the worship of Diana had 
upon the Ephesians is manifested by the outcry, "Great 
is Diana of the Ephesians," which lasted for two hours. 
The Theatre is a wreck of extraordinary grandeur. 

Two great roads run at right angles here, the main one 
leading up to the gate of the Theatre. Just outside the 
Service in Theatre, at their junction, lie the ruins of 
Theatre. the ancient Forum. After lunching in the 
Forum, we attended a brief service, held in the Theatre. 
As you might anticipate, the principal part of that service 
was the reading of Acts xix. 21-41. No description could 
do justice to the glory of th<» ruins of these colossal struc- 
tures of the ages long past. 

Ephesus was the centre of apostolic influence and labor. 
Not only did St. John minister here, but also Paul, Timo- 
thy, and Apollos, a man of eloquence and mighty in the 
Scriptures, preached the gospel to the Ephesians. Here, 
also, Aquila and Priscilla lived, becoming the centre of a 
circle of Christian converts. 



SMYRNA AND EPHESUS. 89 



Tradition tells us that Mary Magdalene, Mary the 
mother of Jesus, and John, the beloved disciple, ended 
their days there. 

In 431 A. D. the Third Oecumenical Council of the 
Christian Church was held in Ephesus. 

When we had exhausted our time we hurried to the 
station, where we took the cars for Smyrna. After a 
charming return trip we left the train at the 
Caravan Bridge station, and began a terrific 
climb to the Acropolis, the summit of Mount Pagus. 
There are the ruins of the old Roman Fort. Under the 
citadel I explored the spacious tunnels and chambers, 
where the magazines and other military provisions were 
stored. Their system of water works was most complete. 

From this height I had an ideal view of the city of 
three hundred thousand inhabitants, the fine harbor, and 
the mountains lying on the north, east and south. Thence 
we passed down the southwest slope to the tomb of Poly- 
carp, a few hundred feet from the old Stadium. At this 
grave stands a tall cypress to keep guard over the dust 
of this venerable Christian hero, the first of the apostolic 
fathers, to give up his life rather than deny his Lord. 
In the Stadium, near at hand, when given his choice of 
recantation or death, he cheerfully chose the latter, with 
the triumphant words: "Eighty and six years have I 
served him, and he never did me any harm. I therefore 
will not deny him now." Immediately the fires were 
lighted, and the faithful servant went to receive a martyr's 
crown. The time-honored proverb, "The blood of the 
martyrs is the seed of the church," is abundantly verified 
in the translation of this fearless witness. 

From the Stadium we descended, passing by the Ceme- 
tery, and through the bazaars to the landing, where we 
boarded the tender for the ship. 



90 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Smyrna, one of the most ancient and important cities 
of Asia Minor, is the only one of the Greek cities, on the 
western coast, which has retained its name and importance, 
to the present day. This city claims the honor of being 
the birthplace of Homer; and here a grotto is shown, 
near the source of the river Meles, where his poems are 
said to have been composed. The city has an excellent 
harbor, and from its admirable situation, has always been 
one of the most flourishing in the world. 

In the early history of Christianity, Smyrna holds a 
important place as one of the seven churches addressed 
in the Apocalypse. One of the most distinguished citizens 
of its history was its first bishop, the sainted Polycarp, 
a pupil of John the Divine. Its population is composed 
of Turks, Greeks, Arabians, Hebrews, Armenians and 
Religions. Franks. Each nationality occupies its own 
separate quarter. The Greeks, Armenians, Roman Catho- 
lics and Protestants, respectively, have important missions 
here, while the Mohammedan mosques number about 
forty. Smyrna's trade is chiefly with the Europeans and 
Americans. While we were there, representatives of 
American merchant princes were selecting and ordering 
shiploads of the world-renowned rugs, carpets, tapestries 
and silks. 

It will no doubt be a matter of interest to learn that 
the weeping willow originally came from Asia Minor. 
The seed were first carried to England with the cele- 
brated Smyrna figs, and thence to America, by Britisn 
merchant-men. This modern metropolis is charmingly 
located on the Gulf of Smyrna, an inlet of the y£gean 
Sea. 



CHAPTER XL 



Patmos, Rhodes and Baalbek. 

AT eleven o'clock that night we sailed out of the har- 
bor, on our way to Syria. The next morning 
dawned auspiciously, and we found ourselves in the Gre- 
cian Archipelago. About eight o'clock we sailed past the 
Isle of Patmos, to which the Beloved Disciple was ban- 
ished for his loyalty 'to his Master. The 
^as e in°Exiie on ^ P^ ace m Scripture where Patmos is 
mentioned is Rev. i. 9, "I John, who am 
also your brother and companion in tribulation and in the 
kingdom and patience of Jesus Christ, was in the island 
that is called Patmos, for the Word of God and for the 
testimony of Jesus Christ." This small, rocky island is 
about thirty miles in circumference. It was there that 
the apostle had the Apocalyptic vision, a record of which 
gives us the Book of Revelation. This circumstance has 
invested this island with exceptional interest. Not only 
has i't been for ages occupied by a colony of monks, but 
it has been much visited by travellers since the involun- 
tary residence there of this distinguished exile. 

Later in the afternoon we sighted the Island of Rhodes. 
This celebrated island of the Mediterranean is thirty-six 
miles long, from Cape San Antonio on the north to Cape 
Tranquillo on the south. A chain of hills runs the whole 
length of Rhodes, forming what might be called the 
"backbone" of the island. The capital is a city bearing 
the same name. 

Ancient Rhodes boasted of a gigantic brazen statue of 



92 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Helios, seventy cubits high, known as the Colossus of 
Rhodes, one of the seven wonders of the 
world. The colossus bestrode a deep-water 
channel, through which the largest sea-going vessels 
passed into and out of the harbor. Only the foundations 
upon which the Colossus stood remain to remind us of 
this prodigious figure, consecrated to the sun in 280 B. C. 

Here the Knights of St. John battled with the Turks 
until they were driven to Malta, where, after the most 
desperate conflict, their triumph was so complete that 
to-day there is not a Mohammedan found on the island. 

Our good captain sailed near to the city of Rhodes, 
and for an hour we had the very great pleasure of observ- 
ing that historic spot. At this place our attention was 
divided, for while we were beckoned to by Rhodes on 
the right, the great snow-capped Taurus Mountains, in 
Asia Minor, lifted themselves, and lay, stretched for miles, 
on our left. The highest peaks of the Taurus range reach 
an elevation of ten to twelve thousand feet. This was a 
grand sight — one that will not soon be forgotten by any 
of us. 

All day long we had been sailing through bewitching 
islands, some of which are very rocky and rugged, while 
others are green and fertile, with many inhabitants along 
the shores. I noticed that mosques and minarets were 
very numerous in the city of Rhodes. No Christian or 
Jew is allowed to spend the night there. There is a 
suburban quarter there which is occupied by non-Moham- 
medans. Saturday night an address on Beyrout, Damas- 
cus and Baalbek was delivered by Dr. Hoskins, of the 
Syrian mission. This interesting and instructive dis- 
course revealed the fact that Beyrout is the sixth largest 
city in the Moslem world, and the most beautiful of the 
Mediterranean cities. 



PATMOS, RHODES AND BAALBEK. 



93 



Damascus is the most beautiful city in the Levant, and 
boasts of forty centuries, while Baalbek 
Syrian Religions. ^ wQ cen t ur i es further back still. The 

religions peculiar to Syria are the Maronite, the Ishmael- 
ite, the Cyrenian, that of 'the Druses, and the ten sects 
of the Christian faith: Greek, Armenian, Chaldean, 
Syrian and Coptic — each of the above five having an 
Orthodox and a Catholic branch. 

The Bible work of the Syrian mission is the principal 
feature of the Christian work there. They turn out one 
thousand copies per week, and have orders for two years 
ahead. Their immediate need was another press. An 
offering was made, amounting to the sum required to 
make the purchase. The Beyrout mission, therefore, 
stands to-day on a very satisfactory footing. 

From Madeira we had the privilege of observing 
Foreign Missions at close range. There is nothing like 
studying missions on mission ground. After all, the 
wants of men are one, and the one thing that the world 
needs, is the gospel. 

The Sabbath dawned bright and glorious — an ideal 
Easter. We sailed leisurely on a perfectly quiet sea. At 
the hour for morning worship we listened 
a ' to an excellent sermon by Dr. Allen, of 
Toledo. His text was 2 Tim. ii. 8. The Sabbath-school 
assembled at the usual hour in the afternoon. The sub- 
ject was the "Resurrection of Christ." 

During the afternoon we passed the island of Cyprus, 
on the left. Clad in snow, the elevated range of Olympus 
(the highest point of which is 7,000 feet) runs through 
the entire length of one hundred and forty miles. Cyprus 
was so celebrated for its copper mines, worked by Augus- 
tus and Herod, that it has given its name to that metal ; 
cuprum, the Latin word for copper, being a corruption 



44 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



of Cyprium. Cyprus was the native place of Barnabas. 
Christianity was first introduced into this island by those 
who went thither on account of the persecution which 
arose in Jerusalem about Stephen. Barnabas and Paul 
entered upon their missionary tour in Cyprus. The island 
was visited again by Barnabas, in company with Mark. 

Easter night we listened to an address by the Rev. Dr. 
McNaughton, of Smyrna, on certain practical phrases of 
the mission work in Asia Minor not touched upon by 
former speakers. That Lord's day evening was one of 
phenomenal glory. The Easter moon bathed the Medi- 
terranean in its silvery light, while the Great Sea was in 
its happiest mood. During the hour of service it was 
remarked that the surface was so unruffled that we could 
not tell but that we were worshipping in some attractive 
church at home. 

It requires no stretch of the imagination to conceive 
that the prophet-bard of Patmos found much of the 
matchless imagery embodied in .the Book of Revelation 
in the transcendent beauties of the picturesque seas that 
were surrounding him during his exile. As I looked out 
upon the waters, reflecting the beams of the full moon, 
I was led to think of Rev. iv. 6, "And before the throne 
there was a sea of glass like unto crystal;" just as, a 
little while before, when witnessing the indescribable glory 
of the setting sun, I had been forcefully reminded of the 
second verse of the fifteenth chapter, "And I saw, as it 
were, a sea of glass mingled with fire: and them that 
had gotten the victory . . . stand on the sea of glass, 
having the harps of God." 

At 5 a. m., Monday, I arose to make preparations for 
landing, as I was one of the party bound for Baalbek and 
First sight Damascus. It was inspiring, as I stood on 

of Syria. the forward deck, to see the Lebanon range, 



PATMOS, RHODES AND BAALBEK. 95 



rising before us, covered with snow. Far down to the 
right lay ancient Tyre and Sidon. These locations were 
pointed out to me by Mr. Clark, United States Consul 
at Jerusalem. We were entering the harbor of Beyrout. 
The first portion of the city to greet you is the American 
Presbyterian University, situated on a point of land jut- 
ting out into the sea from the foot of Lebanon. 

At the quay we had to surrender our "tezkeras," or 
Turkish passports, as without this tezkera no traveller 
can land in Syria. The only place visited, as we passed 
through the city, was the American University, compris- 
ing many substantial, beautiful stone buildings. The stu- 
dents number about eight hundred. The institution is for 
boys and men only. 

At the appointed hour we left by rail for Baalbek and 
Damascus. That was a wonderful ride we had that day. 
The grades up the side of Lebanon are so steep that they 
have to use the "cog" system. On the way to the gap 
we had to "switch-back" (zigzag) twice and tunnel five 
times. From Beyrout to Damascus the distance is ninety- 
one miles. We were in the clouds and snow as we ap- 
proached the crests of the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon 
ranges. Within a few hours we had passed from palm 
groves and orange, lemon and fig orchards to the snow — 
a contrast difficult to realize. Where we crossed the 
range. the elevation was nearly five thousand feet. Look- 
ing to the south, we enjoyed our first glimpse of Mount 
Hermon, clad in his mantle of snow. 

We rapidly descended into the valley of Bukaa, ancient 
Coele-Syria, a most fertile plain, and one that would sup- 
port tens of thousands, if properly cultivated. At Reyak 
Station, in this valley, we changed cars for Baalbek, or 
Heliopolis. There our company spent the night, taxing 
to their utmost capacity the three large hotels. I was 



96 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



entertained at the Grand New Hotel, and was made most 
comfortable. I shall not soon forget the situation of this 
most ancient city. The sunset over the Lebanon range 
baffled description. Baalbek lies between the two great 
ranges of mountains, known as Lebanon and Anti-Leba- 
non. At seven o'clock Tuesday morning, we were ready 
to follow our guide, Mr. Alouf, a native author. The 
ruins of the temples of Venus, Jupiter and the Sun were 
astonishing in their splendor and beauty. "Baalbek" 
means "City of the Sun," and has its literal translation 
in the Greek name, Heliopolis. The Temple of the Sun, 
like all places erected to the worship of Helios, is situated 
directly opposite a gap in the mountains, on the east. 
This was done in order that the first beams of the rising 
sun might kiss and bless the temple with its worshippers. 
Of all the ruins here, the Temple of the sun is the most 
imposing. This was a rectangular building, 310x148 
feet, having its roof supported by a peristyle of Corinthian 
columns, fifty-four in number. These are twenty-two feet 
in circumference and sixty feet high. With pedestal, 
capital and entablature, the columns measure eighty-nine 
feet in height. 

The most wonderful feature of the structure is the 
sizes of the stones used in the foundation. There are 
three of these stones that measure 64, 63^2 and 63 by 
14x14 feet, respectively. At the limestone 
Great stones. q UarrV) whence the stones for the temples 
were taken, the largest of all lies, never having been used. 
It measures 71x15x14 feet. These were the work of 
the Phoenicians, and antedate all other known products of 
architecture. 

All structures built of large stones, both in Egypt and 
Syria, were polished after the blocks were placed in posi- 
tion in the walls. Only the under side was dressed before 



Temple of the Sun, Baalbek. 



PATMOS, RHODES AND BAALBEK. 



the block was laid. Then the two ends were polished to 
form joints with neighboring stones. After this the top 
side was polished to receive the next layer. Thus, when 
the wall was built, the 'two rough sides had to be polished. 
This was done from the top, downward. The great stones 
in the Temple of the Sun were never polished, showing 
that the work of the Phoenicians was interrupted. No 
cement is used between the stones, and those cyclopean 
blocks were so perfectly fitted that it would be impossible 
to insert the point of the blade of a penknife between 
them. Mechanical engineers agree in the opinion that 
these stones were brought from the quarry on an inclined 
plane. The calculation is that it would require forty thou- 
sand men one hour to< move the huge block one quarter of 
an inch. 

The Temple of Jupiter is situated to the south of the 
Temple of the Sun. It is regarded as the finest and best 
preserved temple in Syria. It was surrounded by fifty 
marble columns, f ourteen of which were fluted. The total 
height of these columns is sixty feet. Above these 
columns there is a richly decorated entablature, sur- 
mounted by the most magnificent cornices that I have 
ever seen. This temple measures one hundred and fifteen 
feet in length by sixty-eight and a half feet in width. The 
Temple of Venus is circular. It is well preserved, and 
though small, is a most perfect type of architecture. 

While Damascus lays just claim to being the oldest 
city to have maintained a continuous existence, Baalbek 
was for many centuries the most important city in Syria. 
It now has a population of scarcely five thousand. 

The Church of England has a flourishing mission at 
Baalbek. On the afternoon of our arrival there I was 
astonished at the little girls from the mission school, 
crowding around us and singing the hymns, in the Eng- 



98 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



lish tongue, which are familiar to the Sunday-schools of 
our own country. 

About noon our train left for Damascus. On leaving 
the station, to our right we looked upon that part of 
Lebanon where David and Solomon contracted with the 
kings of Tyre for the cedars of Lebanon to be used in 
the building of the palaces and the temple. Solomon em- 
ployed thirty thousand men in the work of cutting and 
transporting these trees to the sea, on whose waters they 
were conveyed to Joppa, and thence to Jerusalem by land. 

The Bukaa Valley was a scene of activity. The fella- 
hin, or farmers, were busy plowing and planting. Only 
oxen are used in plowing. Donkeys and camels were 
everywhere to be seen, carrying burdens. It was there 
that I saw the first 'herd of camels browsing in the fields. 
At Reyak a fine lunch was served to us bef ore we boarded 
the special train for Damascus, the "Pearl of the Orient.''' 
The Bukaa is fifty miles long, and averages three miles 
in width. From Reyak we began the ascent of Anti- 
Lebanon. This is made through a canon, affording most 
rugged scenery. The prevailing phases of grandeur were 
the rocky steeps and the rushing streams from the snow- 
mantled heights. 

As we emerged from the gap, glorious Hermon burst 
into view. This is the Mount of Transfiguration, whither 
"The Holy Peter, James and John accompanied the 

Mount.- Man of Nazareth, and on whose summit 
Moses and Elijah met with the Lord, and talked with 
him about his decease, which he should soon accomplish 
at Jerusalem. Here he was transfigured before them. I 
would not attempt to describe the impression made upon 
me by that sublime picture. 

Mount Hermon is ten thousand feet above sea level, 
and is the highest elevation in Palestine, From almost 



PATMOS, RHODES AND BAALBEK. 



every mountain summit in the Holy Land you can see 
majestic Hermon, even as far down as the Jordan Valley 
and the Dead Sea. 

After crossing the Anti-Lebanon range we were in the 
Damascus Valley. Soon we discovered the head waters 
Along the °t limpid, leaping Abana. This be- 
Abana. witching river was our conductor, from its 
source in the Anti-Lebanon, to the city through which it 
flows., and whose population and gardens it so abundantly 
waters. The modern Arabic name for Abana is "Barada." 
At El Fidjeh I saw the main source of the Abana. Out 
from under some ancient masonry — a part of what is 
believed to have been a temple of the "River God" — 
bursts a mighty volume of water, which joins the Abana, 
and rushes like a cataract down the mountain gorge. 
How refreshing it was to look upon this clear, crystal 
stream, as it hurried to refresh and bless all the animal 
and vegetable life within its scope. 



LOFC 



CHAPTER XII. 



Damascus and Beyrout. 

AFTER passing through gardens of blossoming 
apples, quinces and almonds, at length we were at 
the great and historic city, so intimately associated with 
the life of St. Paul. I was taken to the Victoria Hotel, 
near the bank of the Abana, as my place of sojourn for 
two nights. We had two hours for a walk through the 
bazaars, one of the chief attractions of Damascus. 

As my hotel was crowded, I went down to the camp 
of the No. 3 Overland Section, and had my first taste of 
tent life in Syria. The tents were spread upon a green, 
close to the river, where I had the novel experience of 
being sung to sleep by the lullaby of the laughing waters 
of this worloVfamed stream. 

I was much interested, in the morning, in seeing the 
Arabs breaking camp and packing, preparatory to loading 
the camels, donkeys and mules for the first link in the 
journey from Damascus to Jerusalem, by the old Caravan 
road. Bright and early I had risen to look upon the new 
and strange surroundings. This Oriental camp, with its 
unique environment, presented a beautiful and striking 
picture. All the forty overlanders were happy and -ex- 
pectant. There were only five ladies in the party. After 
saying good-bye to the pilgrims, till we should meet in 
Jerusalem, I went to the hotel for breakfast. 

In carriages we spent the morning sight-seeing. The 
first place we visited was the house of a wealthy Hebrew, 



DAMASCUS AND BEYROUT. 101 



who had thrown open his hospitable doors 

T the^orient an< ^ mv i te d us to S€e ms splendid home. 

This gave us an opportunity of seeing some- 
thing of the lavish luxury of the private life of the rich 
Damascenes. Next we were conducted to the homes of 
Ananias and Judas, "in the street that is called Straight." 
Of the identity of this street there can be no doubt. As 
its name indicates, it is perfectly straight, and traverses 
the entire city, from east to west. The locations of the 
houses of Ananias and Judas are only traditional. We 
passed the old city wall, and were shown the window out 
of which Paul is said to have been let down in the basket 
by night, to escape death at the hands of his persecutors. 
Thence we were driven past the home of Naaman, the 
Syrian, where there is now a Lazaretto, or Lepers' Home. 
Not far from there we visited the Mosque of the Der- 
vishes. 

The Dervishes are divided into different brotherhoods 
and orders. The chief orders are the Mevlevi or Dancing 
Dervishes, and the Rufai or Howling Dervishes. Every 
member of the order of Dancing Dervishes has to per- 
form a severe novitiate, lasting one thousand and one 
days, before final admittance. Their gyrating dance is 
intended to represent the planetary system revolving 
around the sun, and is supposed to be a survival of 
Hindoo mysteries. The Howling Dervishes, through vio- 
lent physical exercises, work themselves into a frenzy, 
until, having lost all self-control, they gave vent to their 
nervous excitement through explosive groans, hence the 
term, Howling Dervishes. These exercises constitute 
their form of public worship, and are invariably per- 
formed in a room whose atmosphere is charged with car- 
bonic acid gas. They sway their bodies to the time of 
weird music, apparently under the implicit control of 



io2 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



their leader. They evidently are under powerful mes- 
meric and hypnotic influences. It is well worth seeing 
once in a life-time, but few would care to repeat the ex- 
perience. In witnessing these heathenish rites I was elo- 
quently reminded of Paul's words to Timothy, "Exercise 
thyself unto godliness ; for bodily exercise profiteth little : 
but godliness is profitable unto all things, having promise 
of the life that now is, and of that which is to come." 

From the mosque we drove through the Arabian ceme- 
tery. There we alighted and visited the tombs of Fatima, 
the daughter of Mohammed, and two of his favorite wives. 
From this place we went to the brass factories, where the 
skilled workmen were executing all sorts of designs, some 
of which were very handsome. It will be remembered 
that Damascus has been famous in history for the quality 
of its steel, and for its brass manufactories and processes 
of silver refining. It need hardly be said that all of this 
skilled labor is done by hand. Many of the ladies — and 
gentlemen, too — made purchases to take home to 
America. From the brass works we were carried to a 
height, where we had a magnificent view of the ancient 
city and its suburbs. 

What a picture this city of one hundred and eighty 
thousand inhabitants made, spread out in the rich valley, 
with the Barada, like a silver ribbon, flowing through the 
midst of it, while encircling mountains formed its most 
appropriate frame! Far to the south we could see the 
mountains of Gilboa. On the old road to Jerusalem, be- 
yond the handle of the spoon (for Damascus is in the 
shape of a spoon), in the plain, we saw the traditional 
site of the vision of Saul of Tarsus. There Saul, armed 
with letters of authority from Jerusalem to stamp out 
the religion of the Galilean, was suddenly arrested and 
converted to the faith of which he was the chief opposer. 



DAMASCUS AND BEYROUT. 103 



After dinner I went to visit the Grand Mosque. This 
edifice has a peculiar history. It was first built for a 
pagan temple, having been erected several centuries before 
Christ. In 323 A. D., Constantine established the Chris- 
tian religion in Damascus, and converted the temple into 
a church, dedicated to John the Baptist. In 634 the city 
was taken by the Moslems, and the church was divided 
into two parts. The Moslems occupied the eastern and 
the Christians the western half, both entering by the same 
door. In 705, Khalif el-Walid seized the whole building, 
pulled i't down, and erected a mosque upon the site, retain- 
ing portions of the outer walls. The inside measurement 
is 455 x 123 feet. On each side of the great transept 
there are three aisles of equal width and one hundred and 
eighty-five feet long. The floor of the mosque is cf 
Syrian marble, and is covered with beautiful rugs of great 
value. The head of John the Baptist is said to be buried, 
in this building, and over the spot stands a gilded wooden- 
domed vault. A fine mausoleum here contains the body 
of Saladin, the great Saracen general. The Khalif 
el-Walid brought skilled workmen from Persia, India, 
Western Africa and Byzantium, and expended the whole 
revenue of Syria for seven years in its construction. In 
addition, he used eighteen ship-loads of gold and silver, 
which he brought from Cyprus. 

Not far from the mosque is the silver workers' quarter. 
I was rewarded by seeing the "refiner and purifier of 
silver" sit by the crucible, till he could see his image in 
the molten metal. As never before I realized the beauty 
of the passage of Scripture, "And he shall sit as a refiner 
and purifier of silver." I was particularly interested in 
this, because I had tried to preach from this text, using 
the same illustration. 

Most of the streets of Damascus are narrow, dark and 



104 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



very picturesque. The bazaars are a network of lanes 
and alleys, connected by dark passages, 

Finest Bazaars 

in the world some °f which are so narrow that two peo- 
ple can pass each other with difficulty. A 
guide is hardly necessary in the bazaars, as the visitor 
prefers to give himself up to the unrestrained enjoyment 
of the novel scene, while he drifts along, in the current 
of humanity, from one display to another. The bazaars 
of Damascus and Cairo are the finest in the world. The 
dwelling-houses are very irregular in size and architec- 
ture. The inner courts are paved with marble and 
adorned with fountains, fruit trees and flowers. In many 
of these private residences, there is a wealth of decoration 
in gold and silver, sandal-wood and ebony, mother-of- 
pearl and mosaic. One of the most striking features in 
Damascus is the variety of costumes and types which 
crowd the streets and bazaars. The trains of laden camels, 
the dromedary with gaudy trappings, the Circassian, the 
Anatolian, the wild Bedouin Sheikh, the wide-awake Jew, 
the savage-looking Druse, the rough Kurd, the Christian, 
the grave Moslem, the self-possessed Persian, the stoical 
Turk, the quiet Afghan, the dark Algerian — all are found 
in one living, moving drama. Every costume of Asia, 
every sect of religion, every tongue, every race, is repre- 
sented in the jostling throng. 

Damascus is the political capital of Syria. It is the 
headquarters of the Syrian army, and the commander-in- 
chief is called "Seraskier." A part of his duty is to super- 
intend the annual pilgrimage to Mecca. Hence, he is 
styled the Prince of the Pilgrimage. Damascus was the 
home of Eleazer, Abraham's trusted steward. David con- 
quered the city and placed a garrison there. It was the 
constant rival and enemy of Jerusalem, and afterwards of 
Samaria. 



DAMASCUS AND BEYROUT. 105 



In i860 a terrible massacre occurred, in which five 
thousand Christians were murdered in cold blood during 
christian tne ninth, tenth and eleventh of July. Many 

Massacre. thousands more, who escaped the sword, 
afterwards perished from the effects of famine and priva- 
tion. The massacre was perpetrated by the Moslems. 
Since that time the intervention of European powers has 
caused to prevail a quieter state of affairs. 

McLaurin and I closed the busy day with a delightful 
walk around, passing the public green, Where ten thou- 
sand people were assembled to enjoy one of their favorite 
field sports. Crossing the beautiful, welcome Abana, we 
made our way back to the 'hotel, satisfied with our event- 
ful visit to Syria's capital. 

On the morning of the seventh of April we were called 
at six, for we were scheduled to leave for Beyrout at 
7:30. At the station we had a fine view of Mount 
Hermon, standing out, the monarch of the Anti-Lebanon 
Mountains. 

From Damascus the journey was no less enjoyable than 
it was in going down. The river, the gardens, wihh their 
endless variety of flowers and vegetables, the orchards 
with their rich promise of abundant fruits, and the 
rugged, rocky mountain gorge, spread for us a panorama 
of beauty and grandeur difficult to surpass. 

At noon we arrived at the Baalbek Junction, where 
again we were refreshed with an excellent lunch. After 
Wreck on the crossing the rich vale of Coele-Syria, we 
Lebanon. were detained at Mallakah on account of a 
wreck not far from Beyrout. The accident was caused 
by the breaking of the coupling, as the train was making 
a very steep grade. At the first switch-back the four 
passenger cars ran into the rocky side of the mountain 
and were completely shivered. There were eight passen- 



106 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 

gers killed, and many others were severely wounded. It 
was an awful scene, as we viewed the wreck on our way 
down. We were unutterably grateful that we had been 
allowed to pass that same way in safety, less than three 
days before. Doubtless it was in answer to the prayers 
of the great multitude in the home land who were inter- 
ested in our daily itinerary. "The effectual, fervent 
prayer of a righteous man availeth much"; but how 
much, none can fully appreciate. 

We slowly descended the western slope of Lebanon to 
the city in comfort, and embarked, to find a splendid 
supper awaiting us. 

The trip 'to Baalbek and Damascus could not be dis- 
missed, without a word about the perfect system of ter- 
racing, irrigation and cultivation which obtains in all this 
densely populated country. Grapes, mulberries, figs, 
olives and oranges, with barley, clover and beans, are the 
prevailing crops. From the vast mulberry acreage, the 
great silk industry is suggested, Beyrout being the centre 
of the silk interests of Syria. Along the way I saw the 
old threshing floors, like those of Gideon and Araunah, 
while on all hands the oxen were plowing on the hillside, 
where it was difficult for them to stand or walk. 

The next morning I was up before six, busy arranging 
and readjusting for the overland trip and for the stay 
in Jerusalem. During the day, with a party, I visited the 
Beyrout American Press, the American Church, 

Mission. School for Girls, the Sabbath-school room, 
and the cemetery where lies the dust of the lamented 
Cornelius Van Allen Van Dyke, the noble veteran who 
labored here five and fifty years for the salvation of Syria. 
His greatest work was the translation of the Bible into 
the Arabic tongue. I was shown the room where this 
great work was done. The translation was begun in 1848 



DAMASCUS AND BEYROUT. 107 



and completed in 1864. I was shown around by Ibrahim, 
the twelve-year-old son of the native pastor of the church, 
of which Dr. Jessup was for thirty years pastor. This is 
an enduring monument which those men were, and are, 
erecting to their own memories, while thinking only of 
the glory of him whom they worship and delight always 
to honor. Surely their works will live after them. 

The Girls' School in Beyrout was the first one ever 
established in Syria for the education of women. The 
only Sunday- Presbyterian Sabbath-school of the Beyrout 
School in Syria, mission is the only one Syria has ever 
known ! This Sabbath-school is to the children and youth 
of Beyrout what our Sabbath- schools are to the children 
and youth in our own homes. After profitable visits to 
these important institutions, I went down 'to the bazaars 
to procure some things needed on the pilgrimage to Jeru- 
salem from Haifa. When this expedition was over I re- 
turned to the landing, and took a skiff for the Kurfuerst. 
All the delinquents of our party having arrived from 
Damascus, we were completing our plans to sail at 11 
o'clock p. M. 

Beyrout is the Berothai or Berothah of the Old Testa- 
ment, and the Berytus of the Romans. It is a nourishing 
commercial city, with a population of one hundred and 
thirty thousand, and is situated in a most picturesque 
position on the coast of Syria, at 'the foot of Lebanon. 
It is the chief seaport, market-place and emporium of all 
trade -with the shores of Syria, Palestine and Cilicia. A 
considerable increase in population is due to the settle- 
ment, in i860, of numbers of Christian refugees from 
Damascus. The climate during the winter and spring 
months is delightful. During the summer it is very hot ; 
but being so near to 'the Lebanon Mountains, those who 
can afford to do so spend the heated term at an elevation 



io8 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 

of some four thousand feet, where the summer climate is 
all that could be desired. But a small percentage of the 
population of Beyrout are Mohammedans. The natives 
are less Oriental in their modes of living than any 
other town in Syria. English, French and Italian are all 
spoken. Formerly French was the prevailing European 
language, but, chiefly on account of 'the work of the 
American College, English is rapidly becoming the domi- 
nant European tongue. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Haifa to Sea of Galilee. 

BEFORE sailing I wrote up my journal for the day. 
About daylight, April 9th, I arose and made for the 
deck, to find that we were in full view of Haifa and 
Mount Carmel. There s'tood the promontory, as it reaches 
out into the sea, with the Carmelite monastery on the 
Test of traditional site of the contest of Elijah with 

Religions. the prophets of Baal. At six o'clock we had 
breakfast, and at once went ashore, where carriages were 
in waiting for us. At eight we were on our way to 
Nazareth. 

The term Haifa means a sheltered place. It well de- 
serves the name, as it stands on the most sheltered side 
of the only natural harbor, on 'the coast of Palestine. 
There is little of interest in Haifa to the traveller. I 
would mention only the Jewish Cemetery, some ruins of 
the ancient town, and 'the splendid palm grove by the sea- 
shore, said to be the finest in Palestine. On the way we 
crossed the plain of Acre. 

The first place of interest on the road was the brook 
Kishon, where Elijah slew the prophets of Baal and of 
the Grove. A little further on, to the left, we passed 
the ruins of Harosheth, of the Gentiles, the home of 
Sisera, the captain of Jabin, whom Jael slew with a tent- 
pin. 

Every step of the way was interesting: the town of 
Haifa, the harbor, the plain between Carmel and the sea, 
the mountains forming a semi-circle from the sea on the 



no CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



north to the sea on the south. It was a constantly chang- 
ing landscape, with carpets of green velvet, trees and wild 
flowers in 'the greatest profusion. 

At length we enter the wonderful plain of Esdraelon, 
with its broad acres, stretching as far as the eye can 
Plain of reach. Nothing in Palestine surpasses this 

jezreei. plain for beauty and fertility. After travers- 
ing the plain for miles, we ascended the rugged hill west 
of Nazareth. The view from this point was a dream of 
glory. A few minutes more, and we were at the brow 
of the hill, overlooking the city of Nazareth, 

No words can begin to express my feelings as I first 
looked upon the city, where the feet of the childhood of 
Home of the Jesus played. Sacred and tender are the 
Holy Family, associations that gather about the place. I 
knew that I was on the ground that was once so familiar 
to him, and that I was looking upon the scenes upon 
which he so often looked. It was here that he spent his 
childhood, youth and young manhood until he "began to 
be about thirty years of age." 

The city is built on the slopes of a natural basin formed 
by fourteen hills. It has a population of twelve thousand, 
nine thousand of whom are Christian and three thousand 
Mohammedans. There is not a single Hebrew resident 
in Nazareth. There was not a Christian inhabitant there, 
before the time of Constantine. 

We had lunch at the Casa Nuova Hospice, and were 
off by 2 : 30 for Tiberias, where we were to spend the 
Sabbath. About nine miles from Nazareth we passed the 
birth and burial-place of the prophet Jonah ; and a little 
further on we reached the city of Cana, of Galilee, where 
"the conscious water saw its God and blushed." Along 
the entire journey we enjoyed a splendid view of the 
country. The Horns of Hattin, and the historic battlefield 



HAIFA TO SEA OF GALILEE. in 



where the Crusaders fought their last battle with the 
invincible Saladin, were prominent objects of interest. 
From the summit of Hattin, all the way across the plain 
to Lubieh, could be seen the heaps of stones that served 
as breastworks during the decisive battle of July 5, 1187. 

The grandest sight I ever beheld was that which I 
had as we were descending to the lake, that Saturday 
afternoon, at 6 : 30 o'clock. The sun was setting behind 
Hattin ; the sky overhead was a perfect blue ; the nearer 
and more distant mountains were encircling the caravan ; 
the grass was luxuriant, an infinite variety of wild flowers 
greeted the eye on all sides, while the balmy atmosphere 
was laden with their fragrance. The clouds were gather- 
ing as a canopy over the heads of Hermon and other 
lofty peaks toward the northwest ; the gorges of the 
Jordan above and below the sea, and in the centre of Blue 
Galilee made a picture that left nothing 
whatever to be desired. I shall always be 
grateful for the privilege of approaching this hallowed 
spot under such favorable auspices. 

The sea of Galilee is thirteen miles in length and nine 
miles in width. In shape it suggests a harp, with the 
wider end toward the north. This fact caused the an- 
cients to give it the name of Cinnereth. The surface 
of the lake is six hundred feet below the level of the 
Mediterranean, and the greatest depth is one hundred and 
sixty feet. The Jordan river forms both the inlet and 
the outlet of Galilee. The waters are as clear as crystal, 
and reflect every mood of cloud and sky. From this it 
necessarily follows that the color of Gennesaret varies, 
according to the different lights and shadows which fall 
upon its surface. 

Our objective point was the city of Tiberias, where 
we found accommodation at the Latin Convent, near the 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



seaside. I could look out at the hall window directly 
upon the beautiful sheet of water. 

The Sabbath dawned bright and glorious. After break- 
fast, McLaurin and I started to the service that was to be 
held at 9 : 30 near the shore. On the way thither we 
rested on the pebbly beach and looked over the placid 
bosom of the blue lake, and gathered up some of the 
little shells that are found by the million, intermingled 
with the smooth, water-worn stones. 

The topic of the meeting was, "Lessons in the Life of 
our Lord as it Related to the Galilee Region." I shall 
always remember with peculiar pleasure, that Sabbath on 
the Sea of Tiberias. While we were at the service, Mount 
Hermon stood before us, a splendid inspiration. I could 
easily imagine that the clouds which were hovering over 
the summit were such as were present at . the time of the 
Transfiguration. The sea, the mountains, the ruins of 
words and Magdala, Capernaum and the two Beth- 
works of jesus. saidas, all eloquently reminded us of him 
who spent so large a part of his public ministry in the 
Galilee country. I was almost overwhelmed by the pecu- 
liar environment. I could see the footprints of our Lord 
wherever I looked. All the experiences narrated in the 
gospels were vividly pictured to my mind in the midst of 
my surroundings. There are the disciples crossing the 
sea by night. The Lord is asleep in the hinder part of the 
boat. A storm suddenly bursts upon them. They are 
terrified, and arouse the Master with the question, "Carest 
thou not that we perish ?" He rebukes the winds and the 
waves with the divine command, "Peace, be still !" And 
immediately there is a great calm. The disciples, filled 
with wonder, exclaim, "Even the winds and the' sea 
obeyed him." 

Again they are crossing the lake. The ship is now in 



HAIFA TO SEA OF GALILEE. 113 



the midst of the sea, tossed with waves, for the wind is 
contrary. Toward morning Jesus comes to them, walking 
on the waves. The disciples see him and are troubled. 
Thinking it to be an apparition, they cry out for fear. 
Straightway he speaks, "Be of good cheer ; it is I ; be 
not afraid." He comes into the ship. The wind ceases, 
and the disciples worship, with the confession, "Of a 
truth thou art the Son of God !" Look across to the 
country of the Gadarenes, on the east. Having crossed 
the lake, Jesus disembarks. The demoniac from the 
tombs meets him. He recognizes the Son of the Most 
High. The legion of demons is cast out, and enters into 
a herd of swine, feeding on the hillside nearby. They 
run violently down the steep hill, and are choked in the 
sea. Such were the pictures that came to me that holy 
day, spent on the shore of Galilee. 

"O Sabbath rest by Galilee! 

O calm of hills above! 
Where Jesus knelt to share with thee 
The silence of eternity 

Interpreted by love! 

"Drop thy still dews of quietness, 

Till all our strivings cease; 
Take from our souls the strain and stress, 
And let our ordered lives confess 

The beauty of thy peace." 

In the afternoon I took a w'alk down the lake to the 
outlet. This is a delightful sight, as the Jordan breaks 
out in his majesty and begins his tortuous course toward 
the Dead Sea. Though the season was early for bathing, 
I could not resist, for the sake of sentiment, a plunge 
into the blue waters of the sacred lake. 

Monday morning by seven we were in fishing boats, 
pushing off from the shore. We sailed about ten in a 



ii 4 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



boat. The fleet passed the site of Magdala, the home of 
Mary, to whom Jesus first showed himself after the resur- 
rection. Some distance from the shore, as you look 
toward the north, on a rocky terrace, are the extensive 
ruins of Chorazin ; a little farther on, and we came within 
sight of Bethsaida. This was the home of Peter, Andrew, 
James, John and Philip. Bethsaida means the "house of 
fish." The bay is sheltered by hills and projecting bluffs, 
and seems well adapted for a fishing town. Another half 
hour's sail along the north shore and we reached Caper- 
naum. 

After his rejection at Nazareth, our Lord chose this 
city as his temporary home. Here, finding 

His Own City. , , , . . 

Matthew sitting at the receipt of custom, he 
called him to be his follower. We visited the ruins of the 
old synagogue where Christ preached on the Sabbath 
days. I saw among the splendid ruins a lintel, with a 
carved representation of a pot of manna and David's seal. 
Here, while looking toward this door, the Master de- 
clared, "Your fathers did eat manna in the wilderness, 
and are dead," and proclaimed himself the Living Bread, 
which came down from heaven, which, if a man eat, 
he shall live forever. Not far from the synagogue stood 
the house where Christ healed Peter's wife's mother, who 
lay sick of a fever. In "his own city," four men carried 
to him the paralytic, and let him down through the roof. 
Jesus looked upon him, and said, "Arise, take up thy bed 
and go into thine house." And he arose and glorified 
God. 

This city was the scene of many of his wonderful 
works. Here the ruler's daughter was restored to life, 
the two blind men received sight, the dumb were made 
to speak, and the Centurion's servant was healed. I 
walked on the shore where Peter cast in the hook and 



HAIFA TO SEA OF GALILEE. 



ii5 



caught the fish in whose mouth was the coin, with which 
he was to pay tribute for himself and his Master. On 
the shore James and John were with Zebedee, their father, 
when they were called to be fishers of men. Near Beth- 
saida, from a boat, he taught the multitude in parables. 
While sailing on the sea, the traditional place was pointed 
out to us, near Capernaum, where the five thousand were 
miraculously fed. Capernaum is a short distance west 
of where the Jordan flows into Galilee, while Bethsaida 
Julias lies a little to the east of the inlet. 

Leaving Capernaum, we sailed directly across the lake 
to Tiberias. A storm overtook us on the way, which 
made the sea quite rough. This circumstance brought us 
into closer sympathy with the inspired record of the thrill- 
ing experiences of the disciples. 

During this sail I looked upon the shore, and thought 
of the visit of the Lord after his resurrection. The dis- 
ciples had been fishing all night, and had caught nothing. 
In the morning Jesus stood on the shore, and directed 
them to cast the net on the right side of the ship. They 
obeyed, and were not able to draw the net for the miracu- 
lous multitude of fishes. He then called them to the 
shore, where he bade them partake of the bread and fish 
he had prepared for them. Then followed the thrice 
repeated question of the Master to Peter, "Lovest thou 
me?" with the command to shepherd his flock. 

About noon we landed at Tiberias. This was one of 
the four cities sacred to the Jews. Here the Sanhedrim 
city of sat > after the destruction of Jerusalem in 

Tiberias. the year 70 A. D. It is a city of five thou- 
sand inhabitants, four thousand of whom are Hebrews, 
three hundred Christians, and the remainder Moham- 
medans. 

Tiberias is the only one of the once populous cities on 



n6 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 

the shores of Galilee which can boast of being anything 
of a city at the present day. The others mentioned are a 
mass of ruins, with only a few humble dwellings and 
wretched huts. The streets of Tiberias are narrow, 
crooked and filthy. It is neither attractive nor healthy 
to foreigners. The city is infested with fleas. These are 
of unusual size, and as persistent as large. The Arabs, 
who are not prejudiced in favor of the place, have a say- 
ing that the "king of the fleas" has his royal residence 
there ! 

The Free Church of Scotland has a mission here, di- 
vided into three apartments,, educational, medical and 
evangelistic. The Rev. W. Ewing, Dr. Torrance and 
Miss Fenton are doing a noble work in Tiberias. 

At the Southern limit, near the shore, are the four 
Thermal Springs, the temperature of whose waters is 
144 Fahrenheit. Aside from a section of well-preserved 
mosaic pavement in Herod's palace, and the foundations 
of the old city walls, there are but few traces of the 
ancient capital of Galilee. 

After lunch we took our carriages for the return trip 
to Nazareth. The retrospect, as we slowly climbed the 
steep mountain side, was simply glorious. 

On the way we halted at the base of Hattin, and about 
a dozen of us struggled to the summit. There we had a 
magnificent view of Hermon, the Sea of Galilee, the plain 
of Hattin, and the grand panorama of mountains, sil- 
houetted against the sky. While we were on the moun- 
tain we read the Beatitudes and sang "Coronation." We 
were standing on the Mount of Beatitudes, where our 
Lord delivered the Sermon on the Mount. Looking to 
the northwest, we saw Safed, a prosperous city of fifteen 
thousand inhabitants, charmingly situated on the moun- 



HAIFA TO SEA OF GALILEE. 



117 



tain side. This was the only city in sight of the Mount 
of Beatitudes, and so, undoubtedly, was the place to which 
the Great Teacher referred in the words, "A city that is 
set on a hill cannot be hid." 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Cana, Nazareth and Samaria. 

WE drove rapidly to Cana of Galilee, where we 
visited the Latin Church, built upon the site of 
the house where the marriage took place, and where Jesus 
performed his first miracle, of turning the water into 
The First wine. Over the main altar there are two 
Miracle. hands clasped, with these words, in Latin, 
"What God hath joined together, let not man put asun- 
der." 

Two or (three hundred yards from there is the Greek 
Orthodox Church, where we witnessed an Easter Monday 
service, their Easter being a week later than ours. There 
were shown two old water pots, said to have held the 
water turned into wine ait the wedding feast. On the side 
of the road, just west of the town, is a public well, at 
which the stock are watered and the women do their 
washing — a place of great filth and wretchedness. 

After a beautiful drive, we arrived at Nazareth about 
the setting of the sun. At once we repaired to the Casa 
Nuova, where we found dinner in readiness for us. 

The next day six of us employed a special guide, that 
we might see the city to the best possible advantage. We 
first visited the site of Mary's kitchen, over which a 
church is now built, and close by the workshop of Joseph. 
Next we went to the Church of Mensa Christi, or Table 
of Christ. Also, we were taken to the synagogue in which 
Christ preached, and where he was rejected. From 
thence to the Hill of Precipitation : "And all they in the 



CANA, NAZARETH, SAMARIA. 119 



synagogue, when they had heard these things, were filled 
with wrath, and rose up and thrust him out of the city, 
and led him unto the brow of the hill Whereon their city 
was built, that they might cast him down headlong." 

The Fountain of the Virgin, or Mary's Well, was the 
place of chief interest, because its identity is unques- 
tionable. I stood and looked at the women of the town, 
coming, as is their custom, with their water pots, to the 
well. There they engage in friendly gossip, while they 
leisurely fill their water pots. Then they hoist them upon 
their heads, and turn to give place to others. This being 
the only public fountain in Nazareth, the humbler people 
frequent the place for their water supply. I saw mothers 
with their little children hanging on their skirts, and pic- 
The child tured in my mind another mother, accom- 

jesus. panied by her child, as she came daily to this 

well. This scene brought me sacredly near to the daily 
life of him whose feet so often pressed the ground upon 
which I was then standing. As I drank at that fountain 
I thought of how often, in maturer years, he had come to 
that well to quench his thirst with its pure, sweet waters ! 

During the day we paid a visit to the Italian School 
for Boys and to the Orphanage for Girls. This latter 
institution was founded by the Society for the Promotion 
of Female Education in the East. Our guide led us to 
the mountain summit behind Nazareth, on the north. On 
'that height we enjoyed a most extensive view. We saw 
Hermon, the Mediterranean, the Valley of Acre, Haifa, 
Carmel, the plain of Esdraelon, the gorge of the Jordan, 
Mount Tabor, Little Hermon, the mountains of Gilboa, 
the mountains of Gilead, the mountains of Ephraim, and, 
far to the south, the mountains round about Jerusalem. 
Our fine view included also the historic cities of Jezreel, 
Nain, Endor and Engannim. 



120 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



After the view in 'the morning, when the atmosphere 
was not quite clear, McLaurin and I went up again in 
the afternoon. From that point of vantage we studied the 
topography, geography and history of that most wonder- 
ful country. We were rewarded by a most glorious sun- 
set. No artist could put upon canvas, nor could pen 
describe, the splendor of the sun sinking into the great 
western sea, behind the rugged ridge of Carmel. 

April 13th, bright and early, we left for Shunem. We 
arrived at this wretched village in time for lunch, which 

Shunem. was carried with us. This was our first 
picnic dinner, served in an orchard, under large fig-trees. 
Before lunch was spread I found a quiet spot among the 
orange trees, and read the account of the Shunamite and 
her hospitality toward the prophet of God. The picture 
of the young son with his father in the harvest field, the 
sunstroke, his death on his mother's lap at noon, the 
mother's ride across the plain of Jezreel to Mount Carmel 
to see Elisha in her distress, the prophet's return with 
her, and his raising her son to life, was very vivid in its 
details. 

Near the garden there was a fellah plowing. I went 
through the hedge to where he was at work, and asked 
him to let me take a hand in plowing. This he did most 
cheerfully. A few furrows with the oxen and the one- 
handed plow sufficed to give him a little rest, and me 
the novel experience of turning the soil of Palestine. He 
gave me to understand that I did good work. 

There are no distinct landmarks in Shunem. The ruins 
of the ancient, historic city lie buried under the rubbish 
of fifty generations. The modern town is built upon 
mounds of debris, which point to heaps of old ruins. The 
houses are without floors and chimneys, and are flat- 
rob fed. The earth, with an old rug, serves as a floor. A 



CAN A, NAZARETH, SAMARIA. 121 



hole in the mud roof does duty as a chimney, while the 
most palatial of their dwellings are guiltless of windows. 
At every turn I was met by numbers of poor little begging 
children, about whose faces the flies were swarming. The 
village is well-watered with perennial springs, and is com- 
paratively prosperous. 

Shunem was the place where the Philistines encamped 
while Saul gathered all Israel together in Mount Gilboa, 
the night before the fatal battle. Endor, where Saul con- 
sulted the witch, is near to this place. Two miles from 
Endor, on the northeast side of Little Hermon, lies the 
little town of Nain, where Jesus raised from the dead a 
young man, who was "the only son of his mother, and 
she was a widow." A small mosque stands on the site 
of a Christian chapel, built over the place where the mira- 
cle was performed. 

We dismissed the carriages alt Shunem, and began our 
camp life in earnest. We were provided with Arabian 
camp Life horses, while our baggage, tents, provisions 
Begins. an( j culinary outfit were loaded on camels, 
donkeys and mules. Then and there began some original 
experiences. I had a bit of amusing experience before 
the start was made. I was intent on watching the riders 
choose and mount their horses. All seemed so eager to 
start that I waited until all had made their selections. 
The dragoman had miscalculated, for the number of 
horses turned out to be one less than the number of riders. 
It looked like I was going to have to make the pilgrimage 
on foot, but "fortune favors the brave" — for when the 
dragoman saw my plight, he gave me his own Arab 
steed, which proved to be the best horse in the caravan. 

At the given signal the diversified column began to 
move. I cannot say much for the graceful attitude of 
some of the equestrian train, but, by persistent effort, 



122 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



they improved daily, so that, by the end of the journey, 
the appearance of the party was that of a cohort of vete- 
rans ! Our road was not a highway, but a Bedouin trail, 
which led us first to Gideon's Fountain. There the test 
was made which resulted in the choice of the three hun- 
dred, who, with Gideon, were to surprise the camp of 
the Midiani'tes and Amelekites, spread out in the valley 
toward the Jordan, "like grasshoppers for multitude." 
This fountain is an immense spring, bursting out from 
a limestone cave, at the base of Mount Gilboa. The 
spring occupies a circular basin, about two hundred feet 
in diameter. Of course, we were subjected to the test, 
and drank of the fountain, "putting the hand to the 
mouth." 

Our path from there to Jezreel lay through barley 
fields. About the identity of Jezreel there has never 
existed any doubt. Jezreel is principally noted in con- 
nection with the history of Ahab, "who did sell himself 
to work wickedness in the sight of the Lord, whom Jeze- 
bel, his wife, stirred up." 

Although the capital of Israel was at Samaria, Ahab 
had a palace also at Jezreel. There now stands a high 
tower, said to be the famous watch-tower 

Ahab s Palace. J, ezr , ee l j anc [ a p ar t Q £ Ahab's palace. 

From this tower the watchman discovered the approach 
of Jehu, the reformer, at whose command the wicked 
queen was thrown from a window, and dashed to death 
at his feet. "Hard by the palace," on the brow of the 
hill, I saw the plot of ground where a number of rock-cut 
wine-presses still exist. That is, unquestionably, the 
location of the coveted vineyard of Naboth. The mod- 
ern village is occupied by fellahin. As I rode through 
the narrow, crooked .streets, among the hovels, I was 
made unutterably sad at the thought of the wickedness 



CANA, NAZARETH, SAMARIA. 123 



of Ahab and Jezebel, which thought is inseparable from 
the history of ancient Jezreel. 

After riding through green fields, across the plain of 
Esdraelon, just as the sun was setting, we rode into the 
Border city pretty city of Engannim, through an ave- 
" Fountain nue of giant cactus trees. The situation of 
Gardens." c ^ « s beautiful. It is well watered, its 

name signifying fountain gardens. The population is 
about six thousand. Our tents were pitched on the public 
threshing floor, to the west of the town. Engannim was 
on the border line, between the provinces of Galilee and 
Samaria, and also divided the tribes of Issachar and 
Manasseh. 

That night our camp was guarded by a company of 
Turkish soldiers, on account of the frequent Bedouin 
raids from the mountains. As often as we waked during 
the night, we could hear the signals between the sentinels, 
and the hideous concert of the hyenas, wolves and jackals 
around the camp. Our tents were arranged in a circle, 
within which the camp gathered after supper for worship 
before retiring. This service, under the skies of Pales- 
tine, was a novel experience to the No. 7 Overland Party. 

I shall never forget the sunset, the afterglow and the 
starlight of Engannim. 

We were called to breakfast at 5 : 30 the next morning, 
and a little after six we were mounted and ready to start. 
I was greatly annoyed, every morning, by one of our 
Bedouin muleteers hiding my horse, and then demanding 
backsheesh for his return. It is hardly necessary to say 
that I saw that my horse was brought back to me on each 
occasion without backsheesh. 

The ride that day was rough, but delightful. We 
traversed the rich plain till we came to Dothan, where 
the sons of Jacob were pasturing the flocks when Joseph 



124 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



came to visit them. On the hillside 'there are still many 
Joseph sold to jug-shaped cisterns, cut out of solid rock. 

caravan. We were shown one, in which Joseph is 
said to have been put by his brethren before he was sold 
to the Ishmaelites and carried to Egypt. Dothan is of 
special interest to us, also, because of the incident re- 
corded in 2 Kings vi. S-23. There Elisha, surrounded 
by the Syrian hosts, prayed that they might be smitten 
with temporary blindness, with the result that the prayer 
was heard, and the prophet's life saved. 

At noon, we halted for lunch at the village of Silet edh 
Dhahr, in a beautiful olive garden. After a rest of an 
hour and a half, we were oft for the long, hard ride, to 
Shechem. 

The view on the top of the mountain, as we looked 
back, toward the plain of Dothan, over the road by which 
the Syrians traveled when they went to capture Elisha, 
was sublime. I was astonished to find that the feature 
of chief prominence in this retrospect was the Mount of 
Transfiguration. 

The next place of historic interest was Samaria, the 
capital of the kingdom of Israel. Here Elisha had his 
home, when Naaman, the Syrian leper, came to be healed. 

Samaria is situated on a commanding hill, which rises 
abruptly to a height of from four hundred to five hundred 
feet, out of the centre of a basin five miles in diameter. 
On the plateau the capital city was built. Its steep, rocky 
sides formed a natural wall of defence. From the western 
gate we were greeted with a landscape reaching to the 
Mediterranean, one of the richest in the Holy Land. 

Here the kings of Israel from the time of Omri were 
buried, but the royal tombs have never been excavated. 

There John the Baptist's body was said to be buried, 
and the Crusader's Church of St. John stands over the 



CANA, NAZARETH, SAMARIA. 125 



Tombs of grave. We were conducted into the crypt 
prophets. by a flight of thirty-one steps, to see the 
tombs of John, Elisha and Obadiah. The Great Colon- 
nade, commencing on the west, runs eastward one thou- 
sand feet in a straight line, thence northward to the brow 
of the hill. Eighty columns of that royal road are stand- 
ing, all with capitals broken off and partly sunken. Many 
others are lying on the terraces and among the olive trees. 
There were two rows, fifty feet apart, extending three 
thousand feet. On the north side there is a large amphi- 
theatre, which seems to have been excavated by human 
labor. The modern village consists of a large number 
of mud-huts, huddled together. 

Leaving Samaria, we descended toward the south, in 
the valley that leads up to Shechem, passing, at the foot 
of the Hill of Samaria, a spring of good water, with old 
ruins beside it. This is pointed out as the Pool of Sa- 
maria, in which Ahab's blood-stained chariot was washed. 

The rich wheat and barley fields, the beautiful terraces, 
the splendid Roman road, the olive, orange and fig groves, 
and the old aqueducts, afforded us a panorama of pleasure 
in the light of the clear afternoon. About an hour before 
sundown, we rode into our camp at Shechem. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Shechem, Jacob's Well, to Holy City. 

THE tents were already pitched, and we had time to 
visit the only Samaritan synagogue in the world. 
The congregation numbers three hundred people. The 
son of the high priest cordially welcomed us, and showed 
us the ancient manuscript of the Pentateuch, the Samari- 
tan Bible. This document dates back three thousand five 
hundred and seventy-six years. 

After returning to our tents, our supper was delayed 
for some time on account of the belated camel train. The 
sights and sounds were extremely Oriental, as, by star- 
light, the camels came into 'the camp, with stately tread 
to the music of the bells around their necks, and knelt 
to be relieved of their burdens. 

Shechem boasts of a continuous history reaching back 
at least four thousand years. It was one of the cities 
of refuge, and was possessed by the Levites. 
City of Refuge. jj, ere j ac , b hid the idolatrous ornaments of 
his followers under the oak which is by Shechem, and in 
its neighborhood his flocks were pastured by his sons. 
Here Joshua assembled the tribes and made a covenant 
with them before his death. Rehoboam was appointed 
king in Shechem. Here the ten tribes revolted and 
crowned Jeroboam their first king. This place then be- 
came the temporary capital of the kingdom. Our camp 
was strongly guarded, as at Engannim, with a body of 
soldiers detailed for that purpose. 

By seven o'clock Friday morning we had broken camp 



SHECHEM TO HOLY CITY. 127 



and were in -the saddle. We rode through the principal 
street of the city, whose population is thirty thousand. 
Of these, three hundred are Samaritans, six hundred 
Christians, two hundred Hebrews, and the rest Moham- 
medans. It is one of the most fanatical Moslem cities 
in Palestine. 

The city lies between the two historic mountains, Ebal 
and Gerizim. I had strange feelings, as I passed between 
these mountains, with the picture of the 
w ' children of Israel standing in the valley, 
with the ark of God in the midst of them, to hear the 
reading of the law — the blessings from Gerizim, on the 
south, and the cursings from Ebal, on the north. This 
position was eminently favorable for that purpose. These 
mountains formed a natural amphitheatre, from which 
the voice of the readers could be distinctly heard by the 
vast assembly in the valley between. I noticed a signifi- 
cant fact: on the Mount of Cursing there were barren 
rock, cacti and thorns, while the Mount of Blessing was 
clothed with grass and flowers. 

On the summit of Gerizim is an altar, where the Sa- 
maritans still observe the feast of the Passover. Sur- 
rounded by olive groves, orchards and gardens, and 
watered by a hundred springs, Shechem has a situation 
which, for natural scenery and advantages, combined with 
sacred and historic associations, is second to none in the 
Holy Land. In the early dawn of the patriarchal age, 
First Altar to Abraham, coming over Jordan, rested in the 
Jehovah. place of Shechem, and there built the first 
altar to God that the Holy Land had ever known. By 
the Israelites it was regarded as a holy place before they 
entered the Promised Land ; for then and there God had 
promised Abraham, "Unto thy seed will I give this land." 

Passing to the eastward, the Vale of Shechem opened 



128 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



out before us, with Jacob's Well in full view below the 
hill. The well, with the gardens, belongs to the Greek 
Church. The grounds are enclosed with a rock wall. In 
the fourth century a church was buil't over the well, upon 
whose curbing the Messiah sat during his memorable 
interview with the woman of Samaria. Standing outside 
of the church, I could see Sychar, one mile distant, 
whither the disciples had, in the meantime, gone to buy 
meat. 

As I looked up to the southwest I could see, on Mount 
Gerizim, the place of the Samaritan altar. I pictured the 
woman pointing to Gerizim as she said, "Our fathers 
worshipped in this mountain." 

The identity of Jacob's Well is beyond dispute, being 
recognized by Christians, Jews, Samaritans and Moslems 
alike. The well is seventy-five feet deep, and seven feet 
and six inches in diameter. The mouth is formed of a 
massive stone, eighteen inches thick, with a circular open- 
ing two feet seven inches in diameter. This well was dug 
by Jacob when he pitched his tent there, and "bought a 
parcel of a field" from Hamor, the father of Shechem. 
There he erected an altar, and called it "el-Elohe-Israel." 
About six hundred paces northward, toward Sychar, is 
Joseph's tomb, where his bones, after forty years' wan- 
dering, found a place of final repose. 

Thence we rode for thirteen miles along the new road 
toward the Holy City, up the Valley of Shechem, from 
whence Joseph was sent by his father to inquire after the 
welfare of his brothers, whom he found in Dothan. On 
our left we passed the tomb of Eleazer, the son of Aaron. 
As we ascended the long slope, and looked back over the 
plain of Shechem, we were again delighted with an ex- 
quisite landscape. 

Soon we arrived at the Khan of Lebonah, where we 



SHECHEM TO HOLY CITY. 



lunched on the hillside, not far from 'the spring, in the 
open sunlight. An unhappy episode occurred while we 
were at lunch. Two of our muleteers came to blows, arid 
the dragoman made peace by vigorously applying a 
driver's whip which he carried in his hand. Lebonah is 
mentioned only once in the Scriptures: the Benjamites 
were at war with their brethren, who had sworn not to 
give them wives of their daughters. The elders of the 
congregation commanded the Benjamites to hide them- 
selves in the vineyards south of Lebonah, 
air aptives. capture themselves wives of the daugh- 

ters of Shiloh, who came out to celebrate the yearly -feast 
of the Lord in Shiloh. 

A very amusing incident occurred, to make monotony 
impossible, at that lunch hour. I confess to' have laughed 
till almost breathless at the ludicrous spectacle of the dig- 
nified editor of the World Evangel scampering up the 
.hillside on all fours, to get out of the way of the baggage 
train, as it turned aside a little to where that gentleman 
was sitting on the grass and shielding himself from the 
sun by his umbrella. There are some pictures that one 
cannot forget ! 

Just after leaving Lebonah we were indebted to one of 
the fair members of our party for a very unique perform- 
ance. Not satisfied with the accomplishments of the ordi- 
nary equestrian, she volunteered to entertain us with an 
unusual feat; for while we were merrily riding across a 
plowed field, we were astonished, on looking back, to 
see both horse and rider testing the softness of the freshly 
broken soil. 

The bridle path to Shiloh led us up a wild canon. On 
this ride I dismounted and plucked several fine specimens 
of the black calla-lily, with which this part of Palestine 
abounds.. Shiloh occupies a position where three canons 



130 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



meet. There was no place more sacred to the people of 
God than Shiloh. In Shiloh the whole congregation as- 
piaceofthe sembled, and set up the Tabernacle. There 

Tabemacie. the Ark of the Covenant remained for four 
hundred years. The exact location of the tabernacle was 
pointed out to us. The rock terrace upon which the taber- 
nacle rested is four hundred and twelve feet long by sev- 
enty-seven feet wide. Shiloh is chiefly memorable for its 
association with the house of God, though it is also dis- 
tinguished as the place where Joshua completed the allot- 
ments of the tribes. 

A great annual festival in honor of the ark, at which 
it was the custom for the maidens to dance, 

5 e ° ° ' was held at Shiloh. In this tabernacle the 
child Samuel was "lent unto the Lord." There he had 
his early vision, and grew up in the service of the Lord's 
house. 

The glory of Shiloh departed on the day when the ark 
was taken in battle by the Philistines. One of the most 
pathetic tragedies in sacred history is that of Eli, the aged 
high priest, sitting in the gate, awaiting tidings from the 
battle-field. Upon hearing that the ark of God was taken, 
he fell from his seat, backward, and died. He was ninety 
and eight, and bad judged Israel forty years. 

The destruction of the ancient Shiloh is so complete 
that, apart from the foundations of the tabernacle and the 
city wall, it is a mass of shapeless ruins. 

From Shiloh we rode down the mountain side into the 
valley below, and up to the camping ground at Sinjil. 
The name, Sinjil, is a contraction for Saint Giles, Count 
of Toulouse, who established his camp there on his way 
to Jerusalem. This camping ground is at the end of the 
new carriage road from Jerusalem. Our tents were ready 
by the time we arrived, and we had five o'clock tea, pre- 



SHECHEM TO HOLY CITY. 131 



paratory to the taking of the photographs of the party. 
The photographer had come out from Jerusalem for that 
purpose. 

There we were surprised and delighted by our first mail 
in Palestine. None but those who have had the experi- 
ence can fully realize what it meant to us to receive letters 
from home, in a foreign country, under such peculiar cir- 
cumstances. We had no mail since we left Constanti- 
nople, more than two weeks before. One thing should 
be mentioned here, the pilgrimage of the Russian Ortho- 
dox Pilgrims, whom we met on their way from the Easter 
festival at Jerusalem. They were going to visit Nazareth, 
and return to Jerusalem by Ascension Sunday. 

Saturday morning, April 16th, we rose early, and were 
off at six o'clock for the Holy City. We had the fine 
government road upon which to ride all the way. The 
fresh morning air was bracing and delightful. The still- 
ness of the early hours was eloquent. The only living 
creatures we saw were the birds on the mountains on our 
right and left ; the only sounds were the carolling of these 
sweet songsters and the howling of the foxes and jackals 
among the rocks, in search of their mOrning prey. The 
temperature made overcoats and gloves most comfortable. 

On the way, in a deep ravine, we passed the historic 
Robbers' Fountain, where the Bedouins used to relieve 
travellers of their surplus belongings. Only a short time 
ago travellers without an armed escort never passed the 
Robbers' Fountain with their life and property. We con- 
tinued our ride for 'several miles, till we came to a dim 
Bedouin trail, which led to Bethel, on the east of the 
king's highway. 

Bethel is situated on a rocky ridge, lying between two 
valleys that meet just below. There Abraham pitched his 

Bethel. tent, and erected an altar, on leaving 



132 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Shechem. After his visit to Egypt he returned to Bethel, 
unto the place of the altar, and called on the name of 
the Lord. In that place Jacob, the grandson of Abraham, 
spent a night on his way to Padan-Aram. There he had 
his remarkable dream of the ladder reaching from earth 
to heaven, on which the angels of God were ascending 
and descending. In commemoration of this vision Jacob 
erected a pillar out of the stones used for his pillow the 
night before. This he called Bethel, but "Luz was the 
name of the city at the first." On his return from Haran, 
more than twenty years later, with his family, servants, 
flocks and herds, he encamped at Bethel, and rebuilt the 
altar of Abraham. Then Jehovah appeared a second time 
unto him, and reaffirmed the promise which he had made 
with Abraham. During this interview the Lord confirmed 
the change of Jacob's name to Israel. Beneath Bethel, 
under an oak, Deborah, Rebekah's nurse, was buried. 
During the period of the war between the Benjamites 
and the other tribes the tabernacle was at Bethel. Within 
that time all Israel went to ask counsel of God. 

Bethel was one of the four cities on the circuit of the 
prophet Samuel, where he went to judge Israel from year 
to year. There was one of the most noted of the theo- 
logical seminaries, known as the "schools of the proph- 
ets." The prophet Elijah paid a visit to this school on 
the day of his translation. A large tower and the ruins 
of a church of the crusaders are all that is left of that 
First sight of world-renowned city. From the top of the 
Holy city. tower we had our first glimpse of Olivet 
and Jerusalem. There is a small group of humble houses 
at Bethel, with little to commend them to the traveller. 
The appearance of the whole site of this historic city is 
rocky and barren. Except for the marks left upon the 
stones by the ancient stone-cutters, the ruins of Bethel 



SHECHEM TO HOLY CITY. 133 



would not be distinguishable from any other shapeless 
mass of broken rock, on the mountain side. 

Only a part of our company made 'the detour to Bethel. 
The rest went directly via Beeroth to Ramah, where we 
were to take lunch. From Bethel we rode to Ramah, 
leaving Beeroth on the right. On the way we passed 
some old pools, threshing floors and wine presses. At a 
natural stone spring I stopped to water my horse and 
gather some maiden-hair ferns. 

Beeroth is an attractive village, finely located, with 
something over one 'thousand inhabitants. This is one of 
the four cities of the Gibeonites, who, by a strategem, 
secured -a league with Joshua after the capture of the 
city of Ai. At noon we joined forces at Ramah, wnere 
we lunched under the blossoming apple-trees. 

Ramah is a large village, altogether Christian. About 
two-thirds of the population are Greek Orthodox, the 
other third being divided between the Romanists and 
Protestants. There is a successful Protestant mission, 
Mission at including a good school, in Ramah. The 

Ramah. situation of Ramah is conspicuous, and com- 
mands a wide prospect. This was one of the court cities 
where Samuel judged Israel. At Ramah the prophet 
Jeremiah was imprisoned, at the time of the captivity, 
and held in chains, till his release and return to the gov- 
ernor at Mizpeh. Elkanah and Hannah had their home 
here ; and it was the place of the birth, residence, death 
and burial of Samuel. As I walked across an orchard I 
noticed many large squared stones and broken columns, 
indicating that there had once been buildings of great 
importance on that site. 

There was no time lost in getting started after lunch. 

Every one's face was eagerly turned toward Jerusalem. 
So we urged our horses to a quickened pace, entering the 



134 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



city by the Damascus road. One has strange impressions 
on the occasion of one's first sight of the Holy City. A 
flood of memories comes rushing over you until you are 
overwhelmed, and the inclination is to pass the time in 
silence. 

On our right as we approached the city we saw Mizpeh, 
the place where Saul was chosen and crowned first king 
of Israel. On our left was Gibeah, the birthplace of Saul. 
A little further on, to the right, was the city of Nob, 
where David ate the shewbread and secured Goliath's 
sword, as he fled from the face of Saul. On we passed, 
by the tombs of the kings, and through the modern city, 
outside of the walls. 

McLaurin and I were assigned to the Hotel Central, 
within the inside of the old city, and passed in, through 

city wails, the Joppa Gate, by the Tower of David. A 
detailed account of our visit will be postponed till our 
return from the Jordan Valley. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



Jericho and Gilgal. 

MONDAY, April 18th, at five o'clock in the morning, 
we took carriages for our journey to the Dead Sea, 
Jordan and Jericho. The new carriage road is a splendid 
one from Jerusalem to Jericho. The distance is twenty 
miles. In places it is very dangerous for wheeled vehicles, 
because the descent is so great. The highest point in 
Jerusalem is about twenty-six hundred feet above sea 
level, while the surface of the Dead Sea is a little over 
thirteen hundred feet below the level of the sea. This 
makes a total descent of thirty-nine hundred feet from 
Jerusalem to the Dead Sea. The overturning of carriages 
is a frequent occurrence on the trip. 

We were escorted by two armed Bedouin guides. These 
joined us at Bethphage, and continued with us throughout 
the Jordan trip. For a distance of about seven miles from 
Jerusalem there was a great variety of wild flowers. 
After that the country became more and more dreary and 
barren. We passed through the heart of the wilderness 
of Judea. 

It would be difficult to conceive of any region more 
desolate than that through which we passed, and into 
Scene of which Jesus was led of the Spirit to be 
Temptation, tempted of the devil. The awful character 
of the temptation of our Lord makes its impression here 
as it could under no other circumstances, as you look 
upon the wild, forsaken hills, where for a period of forty 
days and forty nights the Master was alone with the wild 



136 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



beasts, as he wrestled with the Evil One in his fiercest 
assaults. The mount which tradition has settled upon as 
the scene of the temptation was pointed out to us. A 
circular high stone wall encloses the summit and marks 
the place. 

On the wayside a camel caravan from the land of Moab, 
east of the Jordan, was resting on the journey. The 
heavy sacks of grain were lying upon the ground, while 
the tired beasts of burden were scattered over the neigh- 
boring hills, some of them lying prostrate, others brows- 
ing upon the cacti, thorns and scant dead grass. 

After a three hours' ride, we halted for a rest to the 
horses at the Inn of the Good Samaritan. This khan is 
built upon the supposed site of the inn to which the trav- 
eller who fell among thieves was brought by the Good 
Samaritan. This part of the wilderness of Judea has 
always had the reputation of being infested with outlaws 
from the Moab country. Indeed, it would be worth a 
man's life to travel through that district unprotected. 

While the horses were resting at the Good Samaritan 
Inn, I climbed to the summit of a mountain near by, and 
explored the extensive ruins of an old Roman watch 
tower. This tower was placed here to protect the lives 
of travellers along this, the most dangerous road in all 
of Palestine. From that tower we had our last view of 
Mount Hermon, one hundred and ten miles distant as the 
crow flies. 

On leaving the khan a great prospect opened before 
us. The mountains of Moab and Gilead stretched from 
north to south, beyond the Jordan Valley, as far as the 
eye could reach. Of course, the most inter- 
Bunai of Moses, gg^g. p ea k of the Nebo range was Mount 
Pisgah, on whose summit Moses talked with God as a 
man talketh with his friend. From that lofty height the 



JERICHO AND GILGAL. 



137 



great leader and law-giver of Israel viewed the Land of 
Promise, into which he was not permitted to lead the 
children of Israel because he had spoken unadvisedly with 
his lips. There God kissed away his breath, and with his 
own hand buried him ; "and no man knoweth of his sepul- 
chre unto this day." 

Several miles further on we reached one of the grandest 
canons in the Holy Land. It was the brook Cherith, 
Fed by the where Elijah was fed by the ravens during 
Ravens. the first months of the three and a half 
years' famine in the land. This ravine, at its greatest 
depth, is more than five hundred feet. It is so narrow 
that there is barely room for the brook to run in the 
channel which it has cut through the rock. The Greek 
Monastery of St. George is built upon the site of the 
cave of Elijah. This monastery literally clings to the side 
of a perpendicular precipice, and is peculiarly wild and 
picturesque. It is approached by a footpath from the 
mouth of the glen, where it opens into the valley of Jeri- 
cho. Hermits still occupy this place. I was informed 
that it was used as a kind of house of correction, where 
refractory monks would have time to meditate and to 
mend their ways. 

Along this ravine for the next five miles the descent 
of the road is nearly fourteen hundred feet. We entered 
the plain by two old ruined towers, which were used to 
defend the Jericho Valley against the Bedouin bandits, 
who dwelt in the fastnesses of the hill country. These 
towers of defence guarded the mountain pass which led 
from the plain westward toward the Mediterranean. 

There were three Jerichos of history : the one of 
Joshua's time, the one of the time of our Lord, and the 
The Three modern city by that name. The Jericho of 
jerichos. Herod lay directly to the east of this great 



138 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



military gate, and very near to it. This city, standing 
as it did at the entrance of the wilderness of Judea, com- 
manded the strongest position, as none could pass either 
east or west by any other road. The ruins of the system 
of aqueducts, the reservoir, and some public buildings, all 
point to a prosperous city which occupied this site two 
millenniums ago. 

The Jericho of the time of Joshua was called in Old 
Testament history the City of Palm Trees. Likewise, 
the Jericho of the New Testament was so styled. Antony 
gave this city to Cleopatra, who sold it to Herod the Great. 
The most prosperous period of the history of the place 
was after it came into the possession of Herod, who for- 
tified the city, adorned it with a palace, and made it his 
winter home. This was one of the cities visited by our 
Lord. Here Zacchaeus the Publican lived. At his house 
Jesus was a guest on one occasion. At the gate of this 
city blind Bartimseus sat by the wayside begging. As 
we passed in and out through this gate we could easily 
picture the meeting of the Great Physician with the blind 
man, whose sight he gave back to him. No less than 
seven times is the Jericho of this period mentioned in 
the New Testament. It was destroyed by Titus, the 
Roman general, in 70 A. D. 

Before lunch we drove to the site of ancient Jericho. 
This was the first city of the Canaanites conquered by 
Joshua on entering the Promised Land. One of the thrill- 
ing incidents in the history of the old city was the visit 
of the two men sent from Shittim by Joshua to spy out 
the land -secretly. The spies sought lodging at the house 
of Rahab, an innkeeper, as the Hebrew word "Zona" 
indicates. The king, upon hearing of the presence of 
the strangers in the city, traced them to Rahab's house, 
upon the wall, intent upon putting them to death. With 



JERICHO AND GILGAL. 139 



Rahab's kindness and the success of her scheme for their 
deliverance, all are perfectly familiar. In the fall of Jeri- 
cho, Rahab was rewarded for this act by her life and 
the lives of her relatives being spared. This Canaanitish 
woman became the wife of Salmon, a prince of Judah, and 
the mother of Boaz, of Whose line, out of the stem of 
Jesse, sprang David's Greater Son. 

There are in the ruins of Jericho many traces of the 
splendor of the city of those very early times. It was 
situated at the base of the Judean hills, not more than six 
miles from the fords of the Jordan, and eight from the 
Eiisha's Dead Sea. The most interesting feature of 

Fountain. the site is Eiisha's Fountain, into which the 
prophet cast the salt and cleansed its deadly waters. I 
drank of the spring, out of a cup borrowed from an Arab 
who kept a refreshment stand near by. I can, therefore, 
testify that the waters are "healed unto this day, accord- 
ing to the saying of Elisha, which he spake." The spring 
measures twenty- four by forty feet, with a depth of about 
six feet. It is enclosed with a rock and cement wall. The 
water is conducted, by means of a canal walled up after 
the same fashion, to an old grist mill, not one hundred 
yards away. This old mill is running at the present day, 
and looks like it might have been in operation for ages. 
After the water has accomplished this purpose, it is con- 
veyed in several smaller ditches, and made to do the work 
of irrigating the fields and gardens. 

' Josephus, the Jewish historian, called the plain of Jeri- 
cho the most fertile tract of Judea. He declared that 
Eiisha's fountain watered a tract of land measuring two 
and a half miles wide by eight miles long, "covered with 
luxuriant gardens and palm groves." 

Of all this former productiveness but few traces remain. 
I saw not a single palm tree on the entire plain. The 



HO CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



beautiful oleanders and roses, with the abundant products 
of the vegetable gardens, convinced me that, with proper 
care, this region would yet blossom as a garden of roses. 
The deep depression of the plain renders the climate tropi- 
cal. The thermometer in the summer time ranges from 
ioo to 118 degrees Fahrenheit. The secret of its phe- 
nomenal yield was water and cultivation. About the site 
of the old city are to be seen a few scattered mud-huts, 
not at all attractive to the visitor, nor such as he would 
care to remember. 

Universal interest attaches to the historic record of the 
unique attack upon Jericho by the Israelites under the 
leadership of Joshua. The simple story of the children of 
Israel, at the command of Jehovah, marching around the 
walls of the fortified city for seven successive days, and 
its final overthrow, became very vivid as I stood and sur- 
veyed it on the ground. This city was rebuilt during 
Ahab's reign by Hiel the Bethelite. He "laid the founda- 
tion thereof in Abiram, his firstborn, and set up the gates 
thereof in his youngest son, Segub, according to the word 
of the Lord, which he spake by Joshua, the son of Nun." 
In this restored city there existed one of the schools of 
the prophets. Ancient Jericho commanded the pass which 
led up to Bethel, only a few miles to the north. 

From Elisha's Fountain we drove to the place of our 
sojourn, Gilgal Hotel, in modern Jericho. There is no- 
thing in this place worthy of special mention. There is 
a considerable number of wretched hovels, built of mud 
and straw, interspersed with dark, dingy Bedouin Arab 
tents. This constitutes the residence portion of the vil- 
lage. Our hotel was a stone building, and very clean and 
comfortable. This and three other hotels, with the Rus- 
sian convent, are the only buildings of any importance 
there. The inhabitants are far from prepossessing, being 



JERICHO AND GILGAL. 141 



of a very degraded type of Arabians. Throughout this 
place are found impenetrable thorn hedges. Bananas, 
oranges, figs ; all tropical fruits flourish here. 

After the destruction of the Herodian Jericho it was 
rebuilt on the same site by Justinian, and again destroyed 
by the Arabs. Mediaeval Jericho was built by the Cru- 
saders, on the site of the poor village now bearing the 
name of Modern Jericho. This town is near the place 
where the ancient city of Gilgal stood. 

We passed through Gilgal on the way to the Dead Sea 
and on returning from the Ford of Jordan. The identity 
of the site is unquestioned. There are a few traces of 
antiquity here, among which are fragments of red granite 
and fountains of unhewn stones. This was the place of 
The Promised Joshua's first encampment after the children 

Land. f Israel had crossed the Jordan. The 

Israelites pitched their tents here three days before the 
Passover. The name Gilgal signifies "rolling away," for 
here God rolled away the reproach of Egypt from them) 
on the occasion of their rendering obedience to the divine 
command, neglected for so long a time. "And the chil- 
dren of Israel encamped in Gilgal, and kept the passover 
on the fourteenth day of the month, at even in the plains 
of Jericho. And they did eat of the old corn of the land 
on the morrow after the passover, unleavened cakes and 
parched corn in the self-same day. And the manna ceased 
on the morrow after they had eaten of the old corn of 
the land; neither had the children of Israel manna any 
more ; but did eat of the fruit of the land of Canaan that 
year." This was their first Passover in the Promised 
Land. They set up the tabernacle in Gilgal, where it 
rested during the long wars with the seven heathen na- 
tions of Palestine, till its removal to Shiloh. 

From Gilgal the hosts of Israel made their successful 



142 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



attack upon Jericho. The proclamation of Saul, as king 
of Israel, was ratified at Gilgal ; and here the first king 
of Israel incurred the divine displeasure in offering sacri- 
fices before the arrival of Samuel. There, too, he received 
the sentence of his rejection for disobeying the express 
command of Jehovah in sparing the king of the Amalek- 
ites and the best of their cattle. At God's order, Samuel 
hewed the king, Agag, in pieces before the Lord, with the 
awful sentence, "As thy sword hath made women child- 
less, so shall thy mother be childless among women." 
This was one of the cities on the circuit of Samuel where 
he annually judged the people. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Dead Sea and Jordan. 

AFTER leaving Gilgal, we drove directly across the 
Vale of Siddim, over the supposed site of Sodom 
and Gomorrah, to the Dead Sea. There are several 
names by which this body of water has been known in 
history. The Hebrews called it the "Sea of Salt," the 
"Sea of the Plain" and the "East Sea" ; the Greeks styled 
it "Lake Asphalitites," the Romans gave it the name of 
the "Dead Sea," while the Arabs of to-day call it "Bahr 
Lut," or the "Sea of Lot." 

Between Jericho and the Dead Sea the road traverses 
a barren waste. The surface is diversified with hillocks 
and corresponding depressions, which irregularity renders 
driving over the plain quite difficult. The scriptural 
record states that the Vale of Siddim was full of 
Sodom and slime pits. An able author states that any 
Gomorrah. one wno h as ridden from Jericho to the 
Dead Sea after rainy weather would know how exactly 
that district answers to the above description. The Dead 
Sea is the most remarkable sheet of water in the world. 
Its surface is the lowest depression upon the face of the 
globe. It is 1,312 feet below sea level, with a depth of 
1,308 feet. Its length is fifty-three miles, while its great- 
est breadth is ten miles. The average depth of the south- 
ern portion is fifteen feet, and the greatest depth is toward 
the north end. 

I approached the Dead Sea with breathless interest. I 
had expected to find a very unattractive lake, whose 



144 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



waters were thick, slimy, and covered with an oily scum. 
Imagine my delight when I looked upon the beautiful 
mirror, as it stretched beyond the limit of vision to the 
southward. Its waters were clear and inviting, and its 
clearness proved irresistible. I walked for some distance 
on the north shore toward the mouth of the Jordan. I 
have never seen a more beautiful beach, strewn as it was 
with millions of tons of small, water-worn stones. 

I greatly enjoyed a bath in the sea. The sensation was 
peculiar when I found myself unable to sink below the 
surface. The specific gravity of the water is so great 
that the human body must float. Drowning would be 
entirely possible in the Dead Sea, on account of the 
great disparity between the weights of the head and of 
the body. The process then would be by strangulation, 
and could take place only when the subject was unable to 
control the position of the head. When maintaining an 
upright position about two-fifths of the body would stand 
above the surface. I found it exceedingly difficult to 
swim ; but with the greatest ease I floated far out and 
back several times, using my hands and arms as oars. 
More than once I filled my mouth with the sea water 
to test its saltness. I found it disagreeably bitter and 
pungent. It produces a sharp, stinging effect upon the 
skin, and most bathers carry with them a supply of fresh 
water with which to get rid of the somewhat unpleasant 
irritation. The water is strongly impregnated with mag- 
nesium and soda salts. Its specific gravity reaches 1227, 
as compared with pure water at 1000. It contains eight 
times as much salt as ordinary sea water. Any three 
pounds of this liquid will yield one pound of solid salts. 

The Dead Sea has no outlet, and is fed by the Jordan 
and innumerable brooks and springs from the rugged, 
mountainous shores, both on the east and west. The ex- 



DEAD SEA AND JORDAN. 145 



treme saltness of the Dead Sea is due chiefly to the phe- 
nomenally rapid evaporation. Great deposits of pure 
asphalt are found at the bottom of the sea; hence the 
name "Lacus Asphaltites." Thick layers of salt are found 
distributed along the coast, particularly toward the south. 
Every stick of drift-wood and stone on the beach is 
heavily incrusted with a salt formation. I gathered a 
pocketful of little, smooth stones from the beach, to find, 
after reaching home, that the salt could be detected with 
both the senses of touch and taste. 

The coast line is very irregular, ragged, wild and pre- 
cipitous. The limestone and chalk cliffs rise perpendicu- 
larly to a height of more than a thousand feet on the west 
and two thousand feet on the east. The shape of the 
Dead Sea is that of an irregular oval. No living creature 
can exist in this water, which phenomenon gave to the 
Dead Sea its popular name. However, the current belief 
that it is enveloped with a deadly atmosphere is entirely 
erroneous ; for animals live near its shore with comfort, 
while birds fly over it, and even float upon its bosom with 
impunity. 

The level of the surface of the Dead Sea varies slightly 
with the seasons, depending both upon the rainfall in the 
entire Jordan basin and the temperature, which controls 
the evaporation. 

The Ford of the river Jordan was the next place visited. 
This is about six miles from where it empties into the 
Dead Sea, and, because of its direction from 
Jericho; is definitely located as the place 
where the Israelites crossed. "And it came to pass, when 
the people removed from their tents to pass over Jordan, 
and the priests bearing the Ark of the Covenant before 
the people ; and as they that bare the ark were come unto 
Jordan, and the feet of the priests that bare the ark were 



146 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



dipped in the brim of the water, (for the Jordan over- 
floweth all his banks all the time of harvest,) that the 
waters which came down from above stood and rose up 
upon a heap very far from the city of Adam, that is beside 
Zaretan: and those that came down toward the. sea of 
the plain, 'even the Salt Sea, failed, and were cut off : and 
the people passed over right against Jericho. And the 
priests that bare the Ark of the Covenant of the Lord 
stood firm on dry ground in the midst of Jordan, and all 
the Israelites passed over on dry ground until all the peo- 
ple were passed clean over Jordan." 

The Jordan crossing is about six miles due east from 
ancient Jericho. At the ford the river is not over two 
hundred feet wide. At the deepest place in this crossing 
it is about twenty-five feet, the current being very swift. 
Part of our company went boat-riding in the skiffs kept 
at the landing, and used as ferry and pleasure boats. 

Some of us wended our way through the tamarisk (or 
salt cedar) trees and oleanders, to a point some distance 
up the river. There we plunged into the rapid, muddy 
stream for a vigorous swim. There were two of us that 
had the temerity to swim to the opposite bank. The 
Kansas and Texas representatives met on the Moab bor- 
der. The swiftness of the current made it necessary for 
us to allow for being carried several yards down stream 
by the time we had reached the other side. The waters 
were a reddish brown, due to the extreme muddiness at 
that season, it being a little after harvest time. I was 
surprised to find that I could not see my hand more than 
six inches under the surface. 

While I stood under the spreading willows on the bank 
of the sacred river, and thought of the passage of God's 
chosen people through it into the Land of Promise, I was 
deeply impressed with the beauty and forcefulness of their 



DEAD SEA AND JORDAN. 



H7 



crossing as an illustration of the translation of the spir- 
itual Israel through the valley of the shadow of death to 
the shores of the heavenly Canaan. 

The Jordan river is the largest and most celebrated 
stream in Palestine. It rises in the Anti-Lebanon range, 
World's Greatest i* rom four main sources, the chief of which 
spring. i s near Caesarea Philippi. This is said to 

be the largest spring in the world. Dan. the most north- 
erly city of the tribes of Israel, was situated near this 
spring. Between this and the Waters of Merom the river 
descends 1,434 feet. The "Waters of Merom'' is the 
smallest and first of three lakes supplied by the waters 
of the Jordan. For the next nine miles the fall is 867 
feet, a veritable cataract, till it rests in the Sea of Galilee. 
From the Sea of Tiberias to its destination in the Dead 
Sea the descent is more than seven hundred feet. 

While a direct line between Galilee and the Dead Sea 
would measure about sixty-five miles, the course of the 
Jordan is so serpentine that its actual length is two hun- 
dred miles. Thus, in a direct course of one hundred and 
thirty-six miles, this wonderful river has a fall of three 
thousand feet. The Jordan river traverses the entire 
length of Palestine, from the northern to the southern 
boundaries. 

The valley drained by the Jordan is the most remark- 
able on the earth's surface. There is nothing like it any- 
where else. No language could so well describe the un- 
paralleled character of this valley as the simple statement 
that between the summit of Hermon and the bottom of 
the Dead Sea there is a difference of more than twelve 
thousand six hundred feet. From this fact it will appear 
that the climate ranges from snow in early summer to 
the heat of the tropics. 

Near the ford is a wide border of willows, oleanders 



148 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



and tamarisks. There is a perfect jungle of canes and 
underbrush. 

In this entangled thicket, so conveniently planted near 
the cooling stream, and removed from the habitations of 
men, the wild boar, the leopard, the hyena and the 
Bedouin robber find a congenial lurking place. Formerly 
the Arabian lion had his lair there. This circumstance 
gave occasion for the beautiful allusion of the prophet 
Jeremiah : "He shall come up like a lion from the swell- 
ing of Jordan, against the habitation of the strong." This 
figure is highly poetical and striking. It would not be 
easy to present to the mind an image more terrible than 
that of a lion, roused from his den by the roar of the 
swelling river, and chafed and irritated by its rapid and 
successive encroachments, quitting his chosen haunts. 
Forced to leave his last retreat, he ascends to the higher 
grounds of the open country, and turns the fierceness of 
his rage against the helpless sheepcotes or unsuspecting 
villagers. 

A destroyer equally fierce, cruel and irresistible, the 
devoted Edomites were to find in Nebuchadnezzar and 
his armies. One thing that surprised and delighted me 
was the sweet chorus of the birds, whose notes are as 
captivating in the Jordan Valley as anywhere in our own 
beloved Southland. 

On our drive back to Jericho, a short distance above 
the ford we passed the church and monastery of St. John 
the Baptist. These institutions belong to the Greek 
Church, and are intended to mark the place where Jesus 
was baptized of John. On the front of the main edifice 
there is a large picture of the baptism. 

About the same distance below the ford is the place 
made memorable by the parting of the waters to allow 
Elijah and Elisha to cross to the land of Moab, and again. 



DEAD SEA AND JORDAN. 149 



on the same day, to permit Elisha to return to the sons 
of the prophets at Jericho. 

Within sight of the Jordan Fords the great royal battle 
was fought, in which nine kings took part, in the Vale 
of Sid-dim. In this terrible conflict Lot was taken prisoner 
and carried away to the city of Dan. Abram, the Hebrew, 
pursued unto Hobah, which is on the left hand of Da- 
mascus, and rescued his brother's son, bringing him back 
with his goods. 

On the way back to the hotel we saw the moon, about 
three days' old. I think I never saw a more delightful 
picture than that produced by the purplish blue of the 
mountains and the lighting up of the highlands of Judea 
in the glory of the setting sun. As far as the eye could 
see, from north to south, and on each side of the river, 
there were the glorious mountains everywhere. The effect 
was sublime. As we had to rise at 3 : 30 in the morning, 
we felt the necessity of retiring as early as circumstances 
would admit of. From first to last 1 was agreeably sur- 
prised by my visit to this unique portion of the Holy 
Land. 

The next morning we were up on schedule time for an 
early start to Jerusalem. The morning air was delicious. 
The mountains, in the morning twilight, were indescrib- 
ably grand. The light was so subdued and sweet. We 
had to walk for considerable distances at two different 
times on account of the very steep grade. This we quite 
enjoyed. The sunrise over the Moab mountains was an 
inspiration. Our dragoman took great pains in leading 
us to the head of the canon, where we could see the 
Monastery of St. George, built over the Cave of Elijah. 

At the Inn of the Good Samaritan we stopped again, 
to rest and feed our horses. There our Bedouin escort 
bade us farewell. This hour and a half I spent profitably 



150 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



in examining the many strange and interesting curios on 
exhibition and for sale in the reception room of the khan. 
I also greatly enjoyed a stroll over the hills in the neigh- 
borhood, gathering wild flowers, which grow there in the 
greatest profusion. At eleven o'clock that morning we 
arrived at the Holy City. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



The Holy City. 

JERUSALEM, the Habitation of Peace, has been gen- 
erally identified with Salem, the city of which Mel- 
chizedek was king. Here, in the Valley of Shaveh, the 
king's dale, Abraham, returning from the rescue of Lot, 
was met and blessed by the priest of the most high God. 
Five and twenty years later Abraham again visited this 
sacred spot. At the command of Jehovah, he left Beer- 
sheba on a mission that was to prove the supreme trial 
of his faith. "Take now thy son, thine only son, Isaac, 
whom thou lovest, and get thee into the land of Moriah ; 
and offer him there for a burnt offering upon one of the 
mountains which I shall tell thee of." With implicit 
obedience, Abraham made ready for the three days' jour- 
ney. On the third day he lifted up his eyes and saw the 
place afar off. Leaving his two servants at the base of 
the mountain, he climbed to the summit with his beloved 
child. With what infinite pathos does the interview be- 
tween father and son proceed, as they approach the ap- 
pointed place of sacrifice! "My father, behold the fire 
and the wood : but where is the lamb for the burnt offer- 
ing? My son, God will provide himself a lamb for a 
burnt offering; so they went both of them together." 
For this act of unqualified obedience Abraham was re- 
warded by being named of God the father of the faithful. 

Eight hundred and forty-four years afterward David 
captured the "Castle of Zion," destined henceforward to 
occupy the most important place in the history of the 



152 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



world. The monarch minstrel of Israel built his palace 
on the site of the royal residence of the king of the Jebu- 
sites. Zion trom that date was called the City of David. 
Jerusalem enjoyed its highest prosperity in the reign of 
Solomon. It suffered great loss in the revolt of the ten 
tribes, under Jeroboam, the son of Nebat ; but continued 
to be the capital of Judah under Rehoboam. 

In 588 B. C. the city was utterly devastated by Nebu- 
Assyrian chadnezzar, the king of Assyria, and the 

captivity. inhabitants were carried captives to Baby- 
lon. After seventy years' exile, Nehemiah and Ezra were 
permitted to return to Jerusalem. The walls were rebuilt, 
the temple was restored, and Jehovah was again wor- 
shipped on Mount Moriah. 

In the year 70 A. D. Jerusalem was again destroyed, 
by Titus, the Roman general, when more than a million 
Roman Jews were put to the sword, and not one 

Domination. stone of the temple was left upon another. 
The city remained in the hands of the Pag*an Romans 
till the year 325 A. D., when Christianity was established 
under the Emperor Constantine. 

In 636 A. D. the Mohammedans, under Khali f Omar, 
captured the city, and laid the foundations for a mosque 
Moslem 011 the sacre d site of Mount Moriah. For 

Rule. nearly thirteen hundred years the Holy City 
has been in the hands of the Moslems. 

"Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is 
Mount Zion, on the sides of the north, the city of the 
Great King." Jerusalem stands on a ridge between two 
deep valleys, Jehoshaphat on the east and Hinnom on 
the west and south. The city is divided by the Tyropoeon 
Valley, which runs in the general direction of northwest 
and southeast. It is built upon five hills: Mount Zion 
on the southwest, Akra on the northwest, Bezetha on the 



THE HOLY CITY. 



153 



northeast, Ophel on the southeast, and Mount Moriah 
on the east, between Ophel and Bezetha. 

Jerusalem, from the first, existed as a walled city. The 
first wall was built around Mount Zion; the second en- 
closed Akra; while the third encircled Bezetha. As to 
the exact lines followed by these ancient walls opinions 
greatly differ. Practically, 'however, the present wall fol- 
lows the outside line of the three old enclosures. Owing 
to the irregular contour of the Jerusalem site, the outline 
of the modern wall is likewise somewhat irregular; yet 
it maintains substantially the form of a quadrangle, facing 
to the four points of the compass. 

This wall was built by Sultan Suleiman in the year 
1 542, on the foundation of the mediaeval wall. The mate- 
rial used was that of the ruins of the old walls. The 
average height is about forty feet. The length of the 
foundation is two and a 'half miles. Parts of the south 
and east sides belong to the original walls. The highest 
point in the wall is at the southeast corner, where, from 
the base to the capstone, it measures 160 feet. About this 
corner, in the foundations, there are stones more than 
twenty by seven by six feet in dimensions. 

In the Book of Nehemiah we have the most accurate 
description of the ancient wall. He makes mention of 
Ancient ^ e Sheep Gate, the Fish Gate, the Old 

Gates. Gate, the Valley Gate, the Dung Gate, the 

Fountain Gate, the Water Gate, the Horse Gate, the Gate 
of Miphkad, the Prison Gate, and the Gate of Epriraim. 
The St. Stephen's Gate stands in the present wall where 
the Sheep Gate stood. The Water Gate, Horse Gate and 
Gate Miphkad were in the east wall, and opened into the 
temple area, just overlooking the valley of the Kedron. 
The Valley Gate stood where the Joppa Gate now stands. 
The Gate of Ephraim and the Gate of Benjamin opened 



154 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



toward the north, and were one and the same, and situated 
where the Great Damascus Gate is now. 

The modern gates number only six. First is the Da- 
mascus Gate, or the Gate of the Column. It opens at 
Modem the nor thern end of the Damascus street, 

Gates. into the great highway leading to Shechem, 

Galilee and Damascus. This is the most highly orna- 
mented, picturesque and imposing of all the gates. 

The second is St. Stephen's Gate, or the Gate of the 
Tribes. This is situated on the east side, near the north- 
east corner, and opens upon the road that leads down 
into the Kedron Valley and over to the Mount of Olives, 
Bethany and Jericho. 

Third, the Dung Gate, or the Gate of the Moors, is 
on the south side, not far from the southeast corner, from 
which a winding path leads to the Pool of Siloam. 

The fourth is the Zion Gate, or the Gate of the Prophet 
David. This gate is situated in the south wall, on the 
crest of the ridge of Mount Zion. 

The fifth is the Jaffa Gate, or the Gate of Hebron. 
This opens into the great street of David. Through this 
gate all travellers from the south and west pass into the 
city. 

The last is the New Gate, near the northwest angle of 
the city wall. 

Thus it will be seen that the Damascus Gate is on the 
north, St. Stephen's Gate on the east, the Dung Gate and 
the Gate of Zion on the south, and the Jaffa Gate and 
New Gate on the west. 

Besides these, there are two gates walled up: the one 
on the north, east of the Damascus Gate, called Herod's 
Gate, or the Gate of Flowers ; the other, the Great Golden 
Gate, on the east. This is the only double gate in the city 
wall. It opened directly opposite the "Beautiful Gate of 



D 

S3 

3 



a 




i 



THE HOLY CITY. 



155 



the Temple." In this gate the Mohammedans believe the 
world will be judged at the last day. 

Of the five hills of Jerusalem, Mount Zion was the 
ancient stronghold of the Jebusites. This fortress was 
Built on ^ rst sca l e d by Joab, the intrepid commander 

Five mils. of David's armies. Here David and Solo- 
mon, and the kings of Judah, had their palaces. On 
Mount Zion was the royal cemetery, in which David and 
his successors were buried. The tomb of David was 
shown to us, and there, too, we saw the house of Caiaphas 
and the Ccenaculum, or upper room, which is said to' be 
the place where the last supper was held. In the upper 
room are shown the table and the seats used at the insti- 
tution of the Lord's Supper. Not far from this place is 
the Armenian convent, which we visited. 

Mount Zion was the first part of Jerusalem upon which 
houses were built. It was called the Upper City, and was 
the last hill of Jerusalem to succumb to the attacks of 
the Roman army under Titus. From the brow of Mount 
Zion we bad a splendid view of the valleys of Hinnom 
and Kedron, or Jehoshaphat. From that point the Mount 
of Olives, the Hill of Offence, and Hill of Evil Counsel, 
were in full view. We could also see Tophet, Aceldema, 
or the Field of Blood, and the Hill of Judas. Tophet was 
that part of the Vale of Hinnom in which the horrible 
rites of the worship of Moloch were performed; where 
little children, as devoted victims, were laid in the arms 
of the red-hot statue of Moloch, and thus offered. On 
this account, King Josiah defiled the place by making it 
the ground upon which the refuse of the city was thrown. 
For the consumption of this, continual fires were kept 
burning; hence, Tophet, or the Vale of Hinnom, became 
a type of hell. 

Aceldema was the potter's field, bought with the thirty 



156 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



pieces of silver, accursed, as the price for which Judas 
betrayed his Master. On the Hill of Judas stands a 
weird, twisted, leafless tree, whose shrivelled arms stretch 
out toward Tophet. This attitude is given it by the south- 
west wind, which affects the tree peculiarly, owing to its 
solitary position; for this old tree stands alone on the 
brow of the hill, a perfect picture of desolation. Upon 
this tree, tradition tells us, Judas hanged himself. 

Mount Zion is elevated three hundred feet above the 
Vale of Hinnom, and five hundred feet higher than the 
place where the Kedron and Hinnom join. The city of 
David is bounded on the north by David street, which 
lies above the ancient course of the Tyropceon valley. 

The hill of Akra was called the Lower City, to distin- 
guish it from Mount Zion. It lies north of the Tyropceon 
and west of Moriah. It embraces the present Christian 
quarter, as Zion, the Armenian. 

The hill of Bezetha extends from the temple area to 
the north wall, and from Damascus street to the wall on 
the east. This is an irregular ridge, included in the Mo- 
hammedan quarter. 

The hill of Ophel lies to the south of Moriah. It 
occupies a terrace, whose north end drops fifty feet below 
the summit of Moriah, and falls rapidly till it ends in a 
cliff just above Siloam. This entire hill is under cultiva- 
tion, being covered with gardens, olives and other fruit 
trees. After the captivity, Nehemiah apportioned Ophel 
to those who were engaged in temple service. Like 
Mount Zion, Ophel is only partly included within the 
present city wall. 

Mount Moriah lies between Bezetha and Ophel, and 
is the most sacred part of the Holy City. Upon its sum- 
mit was the threshing-floor of Araunah, which David 
bought for the place of the altar of burnt offerings. After- 



THE HOLY CITY. 



157 



ward the temple of Solomon was erected on the same 
ground. King David, when he was dwelling in his house 
of cedar, and God had given him rest from all his enemies, 
conceived the idea of building a temple, in which the ark 
of God might be placed, instead of being held within cur- 
tains. In this design he was discouraged by the prophet 
Nathan, because he had been a man of war ; but it was 
promised, at the same time, that his son and successor 
should build a house unto the Lord. 

While David was prohibited from building the temple, 
he nevertheless made preparations for it. David origi- 
nated the plans of the temple and collected much of the 
materials for its construction. Solomon executed his 
father's designs. The timbers and the workmen employed 
in the building of the temple were, for the most part, 
obtained from the kings of Tyre. 

The erection was begun in the second month of the 
fourth year of Solomon's reign, and finished in the eighth 
Temple of month of the eleventh year of his reign. 

Solomon. Therefore, it was seven years and six 
months from the 'laying of the foundation to the com- 
pletion of Solomon's temple. The temple was mainly 
constructed after the pattern of the tabernacle. It was 
to be an enlarged and fixed place of worship instead of 
a movable tent. The stones for the temple were hewn 
and shaped in Solomon's Quarries, underneath the temple 
area. "And the house, when it was in building, was built 
of stone, made ready before it was brought thither: so 
that there was neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of 
iron heard in the house while it was in building." The 
temple proper was sixty cubits in length, twenty cubits 
in width, and thirty cubits in height. The structure was 
roofed and ceiled with cedar. The apartments of the tem- 
ple were the Holy Place and the Holy of Holies. The 



158 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Sanctum Sanctorum formed a cube of twenty cubits. In 
it was the Ark of the Covenant. The main building was 
surrounded on all sides by a range of porticoes, or clois- 
ters, above which were apartments, supported by mono- 
lith pillars of white marble, twenty-five cubits high. The 
chief of these was Solomon's porch, which stood on an 
artificial terrace. This piazza remained in the second 
temple, and retained the name of that illustrious king in 
the time of our Lord. The first, or outer court, which 
encompassed the temple and the other courts, was named 
the Court of the Gentiles, because the nations were 
allowed to enter it, but were prohibited from advancing 
farther. Within the Court of the Gentiles stood the Court 
of the Israelites. This was divided into two parts. The 
outer was assigned to the women ; the inner, to the men. 
Within the Court of the Israelites was the Court of the 
Priests. This enclosure surrounded the altar of burnt 
offerings, and to it the people brought oblations and sacri- 
fices; but the priests alone were permitted to enter it. 
In this court was the brazen laver. Twelve steps led up 
from the court of the priests to the Holy Place, in which 
was the altar of incense, the table of shewbread and the 
golden candlestick. The Holy of Holies was separated 
from the Holy Place by the exquisite veil of the temple. 
Into the holiest of all only the high priests could enter, 
and that only once a year, on "Yom Kippur," or the Day 
of Atonement, to offer for the sins of the people. The 
entire temple area covered about one-sixth of the area 
of the city, or thirty-five acres. 

The chief designer and director of the ornamental 
metal work was Hiram, the Tyrian. This skilled artificer 
superintended the casting of all the brazen decorations 
and utensils. These ornaments and utensils are minutely 
specified, and were at once costly, massive and magnifi- 



THE HOLY CITY. 



159 



cent. The furniture and fittings of gold were rich and 
precious. Gold was lavishly employed in the internal 
decorations. The completed temple, with its towers, its 
porch, its colonnades and its cloisters, all executed in the 
highest style of ancient art, and adorned with lavish pro- 
fusion, must have been indeed a noble object. The cost 
of the building of the temple was fabulous. When the 
house of God was finished and furnished it was dedicated 
by a solemn service and prayer. "Then Solomon assem- 
bled the elders of Israel, and all the heads of the tribes, 
the chief of the fathers of the children of Israel, unto 
King Solomon in Jerusalem, that they might bring up 
the Ark of the Covenant of the Lord out of the City of 
David, which is Zion." Then the priests brought up the 
ark and all the holy vessels that were in the tabernacle. 
The vessels they placed in the temple. The Ark of the 
Covenant they brought into its place, under the wings 
of the cherubim, in the Holy of Holies. Then the king 
and the whole congregation sacrificed sheep and oxen 
that could not be numbered for multitude. ''Then the 
house was filled with a cloud, even the house of the Lord ; 
so that the priests could not stand to minister by reason 
of the cloud : for the glory of the Lord had filled the 
house of God/' 

Then Solomon blessed the people, and offered the 
prayer of dedication. When the prayer was ended, fire 
Temple came down from heaven, and consumed the 

Dedicated. burnt offering and the sacrifices. 

This famous building suffered many vicissitudes till 
the time of its destruction by the Assyrians, who plun- 
dered and burnt it to the ground. When Cyrus issued his 
decree for the rebuilding of the temple, he ascribed it 
to Divine admonition, and committed the undertaking to 
Nehemiah. 



i6o CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



The second temple was repaired and beautified by 
Herod, and stood till the destruction of the city by the 
Romans. This temple differed from the first in five par- 
ticulars : in the absence of the ark ; the shekinah ; the fire 
from heaven; the Unm the Thummim; and the Spirit 
of Prophecy. But the latter surpassed the former in 
glory by the frequent visible presence of him, the temple 
of whose body was raised again on the third day after it 
had been destroyed. 



CHAPTER XIX. 
The Holy City — Continued. 



ANCIENT Jerusalem was peculiar in its water sup- 
ply ; for not a single spring was to be found within 
the walls of the city. It was supplied by cisterns and 
pools. These reservoirs were filled with water from 
Pools and Solomon's Pools, the two Pools of Gihon, 

cisterns. and the water that fell upon the temple area 
during the rainy season. The cisterns were vast in num- 
ber and capacity. The results of exploration show that 
underneath nearly the whole of the temple area were sub- 
terranean cisterns. Between thirty-five and forty of these 
cisterns have been located and explored. The largest of 
these held more than two million gallons. From these 
cisterns the water supply for the temple services was ob- 
tained. Inside the city walls was the Pool of Hezekiah, 
situated not far from the Jaffa Gate, just north of David 
street. This pool is about two hundred and forty feet in 
length by one hundred and forty-four in width. It was 
fed through an aqueduct from the Upper Pool of Gihon, 
outside the city walls. The eastern door of our hotel 
dining-room opened immediately upon this pool. 

Under the Coptic Convent is Helena's Pool, so named 
in honor of the mother of Constantine. The Pool of 
Bethesda is a large reservoir adjoining the Haram, or 
temple area, near St. Stephen's Gate. It is about three 
hundred and sixty feet long, one hundred and thirty 
broad and seventy deep. This was the pool where miracu- 
lous healing took place at the troubling of the water by 



162 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the angel. In spite of the great accumulation of rubbish, 
there is still much water in this pool. We approached 
this reservoir by descending several flights of steep rock 
steps. There were five porches to this pool, where, doubt- 
less, the sick and afflicted waited till their opportunity for 
healing arrived. 

There are many other cisterns and pools within the 
city walls, but the principal ones are those named above, 
which are, beyond all question, the remains of the ancient 
and biblical Jerusalem. 

Outside the walls were the Upper Pool of Gihon, the 
Lower Pool of Gihon, the Pool of Siloam, and the Pools 
of Solomon. The Upper Pool of Gihon lies to the north- 
west of the city, and still supplies Hezekiah's Pool. The 
Lower Pool of Gihon is situated just west of the city 
wall, to the south of the Jaffa Gate. Over the breast of 
this 'the carriage road to Bethlehem and Hebron leads. 
The Pool of Siloam lies to the southeast of Jerusalem. 
It now measures not more than fifteen by eighteen feet, 
with an average depth of twenty feet. Formerly it was 
a great deal 'larger, but has been filled in with rubbish. 
It was cut out of solid rock, and supplied by a tunnel 
cut through the rock from the Fountain of the Virgin, 
in the valley of the Kedron. This aqueduct is 1,708 feet 
in length. To this pool the man born blind was sent to 
wash. "He went his way, therefore, and washed, and 
came seeing." To the north of Siloam, about one-third, 
of a mile, is the Virgin's Fountain, as intimated. 

This is identical with En-rogel, where Jonathan and 
Ahimaaz, David's messengers, waited for David the king, 
when he fled from his unnatural son, Absalom. At En- 
rogel, Adonijah, David's eldest son, slew sheep and oxen 
and fat cattle by the stone Zoheleth, and called all the 
king's sons, except Solomon, to the feast. This stone 



I 



THE HOLY CITY. 



has recently been recovered and positively identified by 
the inscription upon its face. 

By far the most important of the aqueducts about Jeru- 
salem was that which conveyed the water from the Pools 
of Solomon, several miles outside the city, beyond Beth- 
lehem. These royal pools supplied water for the temple 
and the palace of Solomon. To this day, between the 
mosques of Omar and Aksa is a fountain fed from that 
ancient source. 

On the site of the temple stands by far the most mag- 
nificent and important edifice in the Holy City. The 
Mosque of Arabic name for this building is Kubbet 
Omar. es-Sakhrah, the meaning of which is the 
Dome of the Rock. It is so called because its dome is 
immediately over the great rock upon which the altar of 
burnt offerings was erected. 

The popular name of this most interesting of all the 
Mohammedan places of worship is the Mosque of Omar. 
Its foundations were laid by Khalif Omar in 636 A. D. 
It was completed fifty years later. The form of the build- 
ing is octagonal, every side of which measures sixty-seven 
feet. Each of these sides has seven stained glass win- 
dows, of most brilliant colors. The great dome is covered 
with lead. The mosque is entered by four doors, facing 
to the north, east, south and west. The south portal is 
the principal entrance. The north entrance is called the 
Door of Paradise, while that on the east is known to-day 
as the Door of the Chain. The latter is so named on 
account of the Dome of the Chain, which stands directly 
east of the entrance, and between it and the Golden Gate 
of the city wall. It is also called the Dome of Judgment, 
or Solomon's Judgment Seat. 

This dome is one-third of the size of the Dome of the 
Rock, and. like it. is eight-sided. It takes its name from 



1 64 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the following Mohammedan myth : Over this place a chain 
from heaven was suspended. This chain served as a test 
of evidence. A witness in court laid hold of the chain 
with his right hand. If he told the truth, nothing what- 
ever happened. If he was guilty of perjury, a link 
dropped from the chain. On one occasion a Mohamme- 
dan accused a Hebrew of owing him a certain amount 
of money. The Jew handed the Moslem a staff and took 
hold of the chain, while he protested that he did not owe 
the debt. The Moslem returned the staff to the Jew, and 
in turn took hold of the chain. He affirmed that he had 
not received the money. At once the chain disappeared 
and was taken up to heaven, to be seen no more. The 
money had been concealed within the staff. So the He- 
brew, intending to deceive, had literally told the truth, 
while the Moslem, though believing he had sworn truly, 
had given false evidence upon oath. The moral was that 
even a heaven-sent test was powerless to discriminate be- 
tween truth and falsehood. 

The diameter of the interior measures one hundred 
and forty-eight feet, and a corridor thirteen feet wide runs 
entirely around it. On the inside of the corridor there 
are eight piers and sixteen marble Corinthian columns. 
Within these columns is another corridor, thirty feet wide, 
with four piers and twelve larger Corinthian columns. 
This system of piers supports the great dome, which is 
sixty-six feet in diameter. 

Directly underneath the dome is the Holy Rock. Its 
surface is bare and rugged. The dark rock is sixty feet 
long and forty-five feet wide, and stands from two to six 
feet above the pavement of the mosque. 

This was the most sacred spot on Mount Moriah, be- 
cause it was chosen of God as the place of the offering 
of the sacrifices that were typical of the one great Anti- 



THE HOLY CITY. 



type, who gave his life a ransom for many. I was 
weighed down with a sense of the burden of human guilt 
as I stood 'there looking upon the place where the blood 
of so many countless thousands of victims had been shed 
to atone for the sins of mankind. 

The great rock is pierced with a penpendiicular cylin- 
drical opening, reaching from the top to a chamber under- 
The Pierced neath. This aperture was used to convey 

Rock. the blood and ashes from the altar to the 

cave beneath. In the pavement of this chamber is a 
square piece of marble, covering the passage that led 
into the valley below. An aqueduct from the Pools of 
Solomon furnished water for the cleansing of this altar 
and the flushing of the channels. 

The Mohammedans claim that the cave was a place 
of prayer for Abraham, David, Solomon and Jesus of 
Nazareth. Here, also, Oman and his four sons are said 
to have hidden themselves from the destroying angel, 
who met David on the threshing-floor. Inside the cave 
are three altars, dedicated to David, Solomon and Elijah, 
respectively. 

Here it may be mentioned that the Moslems greatly 
revere every Scriptural prophet. To illustrate this fact, 
a missionary, who was on the cruise with us, gave us 
this bit of his own experience: On one occasion, as he 
was approaching a village in Syria, he saw a poor wretch 
with his arms and feet pinioned, lying face downward, 
while the officer of the law was unmercifully beating him, 
in the presence of many witnesses. Upon inquiry, he 
found that the man had been heard to blaspheme the name 
of Christ. He was not punished because they were fol- 
lowers of the Great Teacher, but simply because they 
regarded him as a prophet. 

Among the Mohammedans, the most sacred of their 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



shrines, after the Ka'aba at Mecca, is the Mosque of Aksa. 
It is built upon the site of the Church of St. Mary, erected 
Captured by by Justinian in the sixth century. When 

crusaders. the Crusaders captured the Holy City, this 
mosque again became a Christian church. After the de- 
feat of 'the Crusaders, in 1187, by Saladin, it reverted 
Retaken by once more to the Moslems, and has been 

Moslems. used ever since as a mosque. It stands 
upon the ancient site of Solomon's Palace. 

El Aksa measures two hundred and seventy-two feet 
in length by two hundred in width. The chief objects 
of Moslem reverence in this mosque are the tomb of the 
sons of Aaron, the magnificent pulpit of Omar, brought 
from Damascus, the Mihrab (prayer shrine) of Moses, 
the Mihrab of John and Zechariah, the Mosque of the 
Forty Martyrs, and the foot-print of Jesus. 

These places of special sacredness to the Mohammedans 
are given here to show the conglomerate character of the 
Moslem religion. I observed among them this universal 
principle: they scrupulously preserve everything that is 
sacred to the peoples conquered by them. As a result, 
their creed of religious practices is a rather grotesque 
combination of Jewish, Christian and Pagan systems of 
faith and living. Therefore, we need not be surprised to 
see that their architectural products are also without 
definite character. The only characteristic feature of this 
architecture is the crude commingling of the purer styles 
of the countries where they nave, by force of arms, estab- 
lished the crescent and the star. This statement applies 
to both the material and form of their public struc- 
tures. 

As examples of this principle, I need only to refer to 
three mosques : the great mosque at Damascus preserves 
the materials and architecture of the pagan temple and 



THE HOLY CITY. 



167 



the Christian church in its present colossal structure; the 
Mosque of Omar exhibits some of the great marble pillars 
and other parts of the temple of Solomon; and the 
Mosque of Aksa, where I saw portions of the original 
buildings of the palace of Solomon and the churches of 
Justinian and the Crusaders. 

Immediately under the Mosque of Aksa is a great 
vaulted chamber, three hundred feet from east to west, 
Solomon's by *- wo hundred from north to south. The 
stables. height of this chamber is forty feet. This 
is the famous Stable of Solomon, one section of which 
is capable of stabling two thousand horses : "Solomon had 
four thousand stalls for horses and chariots, and twelve 
thousand horsemen." McLaurin and I found our way 
to these stables by a long rock stairway. It seemed 
strange indeed to find the holes drilled through the cor- 
ners of the pillars, through which the halters of the horses 
had so many centuries ago been passed. 

Solomon's horses were taken in and out through the 
Horse Gate. 

On one side of the stable there is the foundation of the 
old city wall, and on the other, the wall of Solomon's 
Temple. I chipped some fragments from the huge blocks 
of limestone that constituted those historic foundations. 

At the southeast angle of the temple area the corner- 
stone weighs over one hundred tons, and is the heaviest 
stone in the sanctuary wall. The corner-stone at the 
southwest angle of this wall is thirty-eight feet and nine 
inches long and ten feet wide. It weighs eighty tons, and 
is the longest stone yet found in the walls. 

Little can be said in praise of the streets of Jerusalem. 
For the most part they are quite narrow, and irregularly 
paved with flag and cobble-stones. The sanitary con- 
dition of these streets is not the best, as the inhabitants 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



of the city do not observe the laws of cleanliness as the 
ancient Hebrews did. 

The principal thoroughfares of the city are David 
street, running from Jaffa Gate to the temple area, and 
Damascus, or Zion street, leading from Da- 
mascus Gate to the south wall. These inter- 
sect each other at right angles about the centre of the 
city, thus dividing it into four quarters. 

The street scenes of Jerusalem are most unique. The 
entire business portion of the city is a bazaar. The stiff 
military troops, with their graceless manoeuvring, the 
trains of laden donkeys and camels, the herds of goats 
and sheep, the army of street venders, the robed mer- 
chants and money-changers, the veiled Mohammedan 
women, vividly contrasting with the happy crowds of 
Jewish maids and matrons — all combined to make a 
scene peculiarly picturesque. 

There is nothing in the Occidental world that can rival 
the street sprinkler of Jerusalem. He presents a picture 
extremely Oriental. He needs no horses or water-cart, 
as he supplies the place of both by carrying upon his back 
a goatskin rilled with water. The sprinkling is done by 
means of a contrivance somewhat resembling an ordinary 
faucet. With this heavy burden he patiently trudges 
along from one end of the street to the other. Having 
once looked upon that picture, it would be impossible ever 
to forget it. 

In the shops of the city nearly everything imaginable 
can be found. What distinguishes the Jerusalem bazaars 
from those of other Eastern cities is the great number 
and variety of articles made of olive wood. All the way 
from a laden camel to a paper cutter these articles are 
to be had by the thousands. There, too, the beautiful 



THE HOLY CITY. 



169 



pressed wild flowers of Palestine are found on sale, at- 
tractively mounted. 

As in Damascus and Constantinople, 'the narrow streets 
and great crowds render progress difficult. The people 
of Jerusalem maintain their ancient habits of dress and 
living. There is no evidence of a change of fashion for 
several millenniums. The Hebrew women dress very 
simply, not unlike Americans. The men have long 'hair, 
and wear flowing robes, girded about the waist with a 
cord, much like our bath-robes. There is nothing about 
the dress of the children to attract a stranger's attention. 

There are many evidences of great poverty and wretch- 
edness in this once wealthy and royal city. Many men, 
Habits of women and children are very poorly clad, 

Dress. and look as if 'their hunger was not often 
satisfied. It distressed me to see little children picking 
up and eating the meagre crusts found lying in the street. 
The poor have no cisterns, and therefore must buy water 
to drink. This explains the pitiful sight of the poor waifs 
stooping to drink the water collected in the hollows of 
the unevenly paved streets, as the street-sprinkler goes his 
rounds. I was told by a missionary that there were many 
people in that country who had never known what it 
meant to have enough to eat for a single day of their 
lives. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Olivet and Calvary. 

NOT for one moment could any student of history 
fail to attach the highest importance to the Holy 
City ; but to the devout follower of the Man of Galilee 
the mos't sacred places are outside the city walls. The 
spots most tenderly associated with the public ministry 
of him who spake as never man spake are Bethany, Olivet, 
Gethsemane, the valley and brook Kedron, Calvary and 
the Garden Tomb. This is true for the most obvious of 
reasons. 

The modern name for Bethany is el-Azariyeh, the 
Arabic form of the proper noun Lazarus. It is situated 
on the eastern slope of the Mount of Olives, 
Bethany. flf |- een furlongs, or not quite two miles, from 
Jerusalem, on the old Jericho caravan road. To-day 
Bethany is a poor Mohammedan village, full of wretched 
beggars. But, unattractive as it is to the traveller, there 
is no town in Palestine that is quite so intimately asso- 
ciated with the life of our Lord as the village where 
Martha and Mary and Lazarus had their hospitable home. 
That house was the home of Jesus during his frequent 
visits to Jerusalem, especially in the last days of his 
earthly ministry. What Capernaum was to the region of 
the Sea of Galilee, Bethany was to Jerusalem and its 
environments. 

The Master was in the country beyond the Jordan 
Valley, Arabia Petrea, when a messenger brought the sad 
news of the alarming illness of his friend Lazarus. The 



OLIVET AND CALVARY. 171 
message was peculiarly tender : "He whom thou lovest is 
sick." After two days Jesus begins the weary journey. 
At length he arrives at Bethany ; but, in the meanwhile, 
Lazarus had died, and his body was entombed. He is 
met on the outskirt of the village, first by Martha and 
then by her sister, with the pitiful cry, "Lord, if thou 
hadst been here my brother had not died." 

It was at this juncture that the sympathy of the man 
Christ Jesus was manifested in a most striking manner, 
for when he saw the heart-broken sisters weeping over 
the loss of their only brother, "Jesus wept." It was a 
sublime spectacle. He had so often enjoyed their hos- 
pitality, and shared their comforts and their joys ; now 
he shares with them their sorrow. "Then said the Jews, 
Behold how he loved him." He is directed by them to 
the grave of his friend. "It was a cave, and a stone lay 
upon it." Behold the divine majesty of the Prince of 
Life, as he commands the bystanders to take away the 
Raised to stone. Then, after a brief prayer of thanks- 

Life, giving to his Father, he utters the almighty 
summons, "Lazarus, come forth !" "And he that was 
dead came forth, bound hand and foot with grave 
clothes." "Loose 'him and let him go," said Jesus, and 
he restored the beloved Lazarus to his devoted sisters. 

You search in vain for a more unmistakable exhibition 
of the union of the divine and human natures in the 
theanthropic person of the Friend of Sinners. 

Bethany was the home of Simon the leper, and Jesus 
was his guest on one occasion, when a woman came and 
anointed his head with an alabaster box of precious oint- 
ment. She was rebuked by the disciples, but commended 
by the Master. "Why trouble ye the woman? for she 
hath wrought a good work upon me. For in that she 
hath poured this ointment on my body, she did it for my 



172 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



burial. Wheresoever this gospel shall be preached in the 
whole world, there shall also, this, that this woman hath 
done, be told for a memorial of her." 

The day before the triumphal entry into Jerusalem 
Jesus came to Bethany from Jericho. That memorable 
Triumphal procession began at Bethany. It was at the 
Entry. time of the Passover. He sent two of his 
followers to Bethphage, a small village across a ravine, 
only a short distance to the south. "Go your way into 
the village over against you : and as soon as ye be entered 
into it ye shall find a colt tied, whereon never man sat; 
loose him, and bring him." "And they brought the colt 
to Jesus, and cast their garments on him; and he sat 
upon him. And many spread their garments in the way ; 
and others cut down branches off the trees, and strewed 
them in the way. And they that went before, and they 
that followed, cried, saying, Hosanna ! blessed is he that 
cometh in the name of the Lord. Blessed be the kingdom 
of our father David, that cometh in the name of the 
Lord : Hosanna in the highest !" 

While we were at Bethany we were shown only three 
places of special interest: the tomb of Lazarus, a deep 
vault, excavated in the rock, near the centre of the vil- 
lage ; the home of Lazarus and his sisters ; and the house 
of Simon the leper. This tomb is sacred alike to the 
Christians and the Mohammedans, and the identity of the 
sepulchre is beyond reasonable doubt. 

The modern name for the Mount of Olives is Jebel-et- 
Tur, or Mount of Light. It stands directly east of Jeru- 
salem, and towers two hundred feet above the summit of 
Mount Moriah. It owes its name to the olive trees, which 
flourished upon it in very ancient times, some venerable 
specimens of which remain to this day upon its western 
slope. The first mention of Olivet is in the affecting nar- 



OLIVET AND CALVARY. 173 



rative of David's retirement from Jerusalem, as he fled 
from Absalom, his rebellious son : "And David went up 
by the ascent of Mount Olivet, and wept as he went up, 
and had his head covered ; and he went barefoot : and all 
the people that was with him covered every man his head, 
and they went up, weeping as they went." Only one 
other time is this mount referred to in the Old Testament. 
This time it is in a prophecy of the coming of the Mes- 
siah and the graces of his kingdom : "And his feet shall 
stand in that day upon the Mount of Olives, which is 
before Jerusalem on the east." 

Olivet is more of a ridge than a mountain. It runs 
parallel to Mount Moriah, from which it is separated by 
the valley of the Kedron, and is divided into four dis- 
tinct elevations, although the intervening depressions are 
slight. The most southerly of these crests is called the 
"Mount of Offence," because there Solomon set up the 
idol worship to please his heathen wives. Just north of 
this is the "Mount of the Prophets," so called from a 
catacomb known as the "Tombs of the Prophets." The 
next, north, is the "Mount of Ascension," exactly oppo- 
site the Golden Gate of the city, and properly called the 
"Mount of Olives." The summit is called "Viri Galilsei" 
("Ye men of Galilee"), because there, tradition tells us, 
the angels addressed the gazing disciples : "Ye men of 
Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven?" 

Bleak as 'the mountain ridge is at present, only a few 
scattered olive trees being left to justify its name, the 
Mount was once covered with olives, myrtles, thorns, 
pines and palms ; and a little care and cultivation would 
restore its beauty. 

My first visit to the Mount of Olives was in the early 
morning of the Sabbath, with my friend from Carolina. 
As we stood in the doorway of the Hotel Central, we wit- 



174 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



nessed a glorious scene. Just behind the summit of Olivet 
the sun was rising in his majesty. I can never forget 
that picture ! At once we were on our way to this place, 
so sacredly associated with the life of our Lord. Our 
purpose was to read together the passages of Scripture 
recording the history of Olivet as it referred to the 
Master. 

We walked down David street, through the Street of 
the Cotton Merchants, and out through St. Stephen's 
Gate, which marks the place where Stephen suffered 
martyrdom. Thence we continued down the steep hill- 
side into the Kedron valley. We were tracing the foot- 
steps of the Galilean, and the solemnity of the thought 
was overwhelming. On our left was the tomb of Mary, 
the mother of Jesus, over which a chapel has been erected. 
Immediately in front of us, a little way up the side of 
Olivet, stood the golden-domed Russian Church of Mary 
Magdalene. 

After we had gone a few rods from the caravan bridge 
that spans the brook Kedron, we came to the gate of the 
stone wall which encloses the Garden of 

Gethsemane. Qetihsemane, or the Garden of the Oil Press. 
We entered in silence. There were the great gnarled 
trunks of the olive trees that have witnessed the march 
of the centuries since the time when the world's greatest 
conflict was waged and its greatest victory gained. In 
this garden, on that memorable night, the Saviour three 
times prayed, "Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass 
from me; nevertheless, not as I will, but as thou wilt." 
To this garden gate Judas, the traitor, led the multitude, 
and there he betrayed the Son of man with a kiss ! 

The real struggle of Jesus was not on Calvary, but in 
Gethsemane; for there the question was forever settled. 
The trial and the crucifixion were but the carrying out of 



1 




f 



OLIVET AND CALVARY. 175 



that for which he 'had gained his full consent. It would 
be impossible to convey to the mind of another, by means 
of any language at my command, the impressions borne 
in upon heart and mind in the midst of 'those sacred sur- 
roundings. The place whereon we were standing was 
holy ground. Within the garden, around the entire wall, 
are prayer stations, fourteen in number. These mark the 
various stages from the "Agony in ithe Garden" to the 
"Descent from the Cross." 

There are three roads that converge at Gethsemane: 
the one farthest south is the great caravan highway, lead- 
ing to Jericho via Bethphage and Bethany ; the middle 
road is a rugged, fatiguing one, but the more direct route 
to the village of Bethany, and was the one most fre- 
quently travelled by the Master and his disciples ; while 
the third is the steepest and roughest of the three, and 
leads to the summit of Olivet. 

We made the ascent by the last-named road, and de- 
scended by the one referred to as the favorite of our 
Lord. As we .sat upon the rock ledge, on the brow 
overlooking the temple area, we read the narrative of the 
triumphal entry into Jerusalem, and how he wept over 
the ungrateful city and foretold her impending doom. 

While we sat there we read, among other passages, the 
parable of the ten virgins, the parable of the talents and 
the prophetic description of the last judgment: "And 
before him shall be gathered all nations ; and he shall 
separate them one from another, as a shepherd divideth 
his sheep from the goats : and he shall set the sheep on 
his right hand, but the goats on the left." 

All about us on the rocky terraces were clumps of 
thorns, known as the "Zizyphus spina Christi." From 
this scrubby thorn the crown of thorns was woven for 
the Sufferer's brow. 



176 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



How intimately, nay inseparably, was the Mount of 
Olives connected with the last days of Jesus upon earth ! 
Olivet was a favorite resort of our Lord for rest, medi- 
tation and prayer after the exhausting ministry of the 
day: "In the day-time he was teaching in the temple; 
and at night he went out and abode in the mount that 
is called the Mount of Olives." 

From this mount, also, he ascended on the fortieth day 
after the resurrection: "And he led them out as far as 
to Bethany, and he lifted up his hands, and 

Ascension. ki essec [ them. And it came to pass, while 
he blessed them, he was parted from them, and carried 
up into heaven." "And when he had spoken these things, 
while they beheld, he was taken up ; and a cloud received 
him out of their sight. And while they looked steadfastly 
toward heaven, as he went up, behold, two men stood 
by them in white apparel ; which also said, . . . This 
same Jesus, which is 'taken up from you into heaven, shall 
so come in like manner as ye have seen him go into 
heaven." 

My second visit to this sacred mountain was on the 
following Wednesday morning. We drove, with a special 
guide, over the Kaiser's carriage road to the summit of 
Olivet. We alighted and passed through the gate toward 
the Russian Tower. 

On our way we passed the Church of the Ascension, 
and discerning that they were engaged in morning wor- 
ship, we went in. There we heard as sweet music as I 
ever hope to hear on earth. The chanting was by female 
voices alone. The rendition was literally by the "choir 
invisible," as we could not see the forms, but could only 
hear the voices of the singers. This church is built upon 
the traditional spot from which the ascension took place. 

From there we walked to the four-storied tower, and 



OLIVET AND CALVARY. 177 



began the fatiguing ascent by the long flights of spiral 
stairs. At each landing we 'halted and walked around the 
banistered platform on the outside. As we ascended our 
horizon was enlarged till the view was indescribably 
grand. What a prospect ! It was the choicest hour of 
the morning, for it was early enough for the valleys to 
be in shadow and the hills and mountains to be thrown 
into bold relief. 

Olivet lay spread out at our feet. We could look down 
into the valleys of the Kedron and Hinnom. Absalom's 
Place, Si ! loam and the Moslem and Jewish cemeteries 
were in full view. We had a commanding survey of the 
Holy City. It was easy to locate the five hills of Jeru- 
salem. We could distinguish clearly between Bezetha, 
Ophel and Moriah on the east, and Mount Zion and Akra 
on the west. The city walls were clearly defined, while 
we could comfortably outline the various quarters of 
Jerusalem. The whole temple area was within the scope 
of our vision. As I looked upon the splendid Haram and 
pictured the magnificent White temple and palace of Solo- 
mon, I "thought of One greater than Solomon, as he 
"walked in the temple in Solomon's Porch," one winter 
day, at the feast of the dedication, and delivered to the 
people 'his matchless discourse upon himself as the Good 
Shepherd. 

How often, from the time of his presentation in the 
temple at the age of eight days till the passion week, had 
he frequented those sacred precincts ! 

The farther view commanded every point of the com- 
pass. There were the mountains of Hermon, Samaria, 
Ephraim and Benjamin, the ancient cities of Bethel and 
Ramah, and the vale of Shec'hem, on the north ; the high- 
lands of Judea, the mountains of Gilead and Moab, the 
valley of the Jordan and the Dead Sea, on the east ; the 



178 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



wilderness of Judea, the historic cities of Hebron and 
Bethlehem, the plain of the shepherds, the field of Boaz 
and Rachel's tomb, on the south; and the battle-field of 
Rephaim, or the Field of the Giants, Mizpeh, the Valley 
of Roses, the Valley of Aijalon, the Valley of Sorek, the 
Plain of Sharon and the Great Sea, on the west. Prac- 
tically, the vast field of vision extends from Dan to Beer- 
sheba, and from 'the Moab country to the Mediterranean. 
Such a glorious panorama would be richly worth trav- 
elling around the whole world to behold. 

On the way, about the city walls, and especially on the 
road from Jerusalem to the Mount of Olives, we were 
constantly met with the poor, pitiful lepers, 
sitting on the ground, on each side of the 
way, begging. It is a sight that makes the heart sick, as 
the wretched sufferers utter the helpless cry, "Librus ! 
librus ! librus !" at the same time exhibiting the awful 
deformity of their limbs to elicit the sympathy of the 
passers by. 

Here I had an indellible impression made upon my 
heart and mind: how very vividly does the loathsome 
disease of leprosy illustrate sin ! First, it is incurable 
but by divine power; and, also, it poisons, distorts and 
dismembers the body ; then, it separates from the society 
of the healthy and the clean; at last, it makes the de- 
struction of the body certain and complete. So it is with 
the disease of sin: it can be healed by the Great Phy- 
sician alone; it poisons, distorts, disintegrates and dis- 
members the life, physically, morally and spiritually; it 
separates from the society of the clean, pure and holy, 
both in this life and in the world to come ; it, too, if left 
to do its work, will render the destruction of both body 
and soul absolute. 

Universal interest centres in two sacred places about 



OLIVET AND CALVARY. 



179 



the Holy City: Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre. Cal- 
wherethey var y 1s a distinct ridge, of the form of an 
crucified Him. oval, a few hundred feet from the Damas- 
cus Gate. Almost the entire area is occupied by a Mo- 
hammedan cemetery. It is fenced and guarded by the 
Moslems, so that you are not allowed to enter. But you 
can, from a distance, and from a nearer point of view, 
look upon the place where the cruel cross was erected, 
and where "he bore our sins in his own body upon the 
tree." The scene of the crucifixion was outside the city 
walls, nigh unto Jerusalem, in a place Where the throng 
could witness the awful spectacle. This was done in 
order that the execution of the condemned might impress 
the public with the extreme horror of that particular form 
of punishment. 

What a faithful description of the sufferings and death 
of the man Christ Jesus we have in the fifty-third chapter 
of Isaiah : "Surely, he hath borne our griefs and carried 
our sorrows : yet we did esteem him stricken, smitten of 
God and afflicted. But he was wounded for our trans- 
gressions, he was bruised for our iniquities : the chastise- 
ment of our peace was upon him; and with his stripes 
we are healed. He was taken from prison and from judg- 
ment: he was oppressed, and he was afflicted, yet he 
opened not his mouth : he is brought as a lamb to the 
slaughter, and as a sheep before her shearers is dumb, 
so he opened not his mouth. He was numbered with 
the transgressors ; and he bare the sin of many, and made 
intercession for the transgressors." 

"And after this Joseph of Arimathea besought Pilate 
that he might take away the body of Jesus : and Pilate 
gave him leave. He came, therefore, and took the body 
of Jesus. And there came also Nicodemus, which at the 
first came to Jesus by night, and brought a mixture of 



180 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



myrrh and aloes, about an hundred pound weight. Then 
took tfhey the body of Jesus, and wound it in linen clothes, 
with the spices, as the manner of the Jews is to bury. 
Now in the place where he was crucified there was a 
garden ; and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was 
never man laid. There laid they Jesus, therefore, because 
of the Jews' preparation day ; for the sepulchre was nigh 
at hand." 

The garden of Joseph is walled in on one side by the 
abrupt ending of Golgotha. In the face of this natural 
The Holy wall is a rock-hewn chamber, with two 
sepulchre apartments. The chamber would measure 
twelve feet in width by fourteen in length by eight in 
height. There are three sepulchres in the chamber, one 
the full length of a man, another not quite so long, and a 
third apparently cut for a body much smaller. The two 
last had never been completed. There were unmistakable 
evidences that this burial chamber belonged to a person of 
wealth. 

In the finished sepulchre Joseph laid the body of our 
Lord. Then a stone was rolled to the door of the chamber 
and sealed with the seal of Pilate, while a Roman guard 
was placed before it, to prevent any one from entering 
the sepulchre. There the body lay till the third day, when 
"the angel of the Lord descended from heaven, and came 
and rolled back the stone from the door, and sat upon it. 
His countenance was like lightning, and his raiment white 
as snow : and for fear of him the keepers did shake, and 
became as dead men." Then the heavenly messenger an- 
nounced that he who could not be holden of the tomb 
had burst the bars of death, had conquered death in 
death's dominions, and was alive for evermore! The 
angel addressed the women and said, "He is not here; 
for he is risen, as he said. Come, see the place where the 
Lord lay." 



OLIVET AND CALVARY. 



The chamber stands practically intact. The great cir- 
cular stone which closed the door has been taken away, 
but the distinct groove in which it revolved is there as 
it was nearly nineteen hundred years ago. As I stood 
with uncovered head in that sacred place, I was impressed 
with the unspeakable love of God as I had never been 
before. Then there was a thrill of unutterable gratitude 
for the scriptural, steadfast hope, begotten by the know- 
ledge of the fact that he who had died for our sins had 
also risen for our justification. He had brought life and 
immortality to light in the gospel. From that chamber 
I emerged with a renewed determination to proclaim to 
my fellow-men the unsearchable riches of Christ with an 
increasing devotion and with untiring energy and faith- 
fulness. 



CHAPTER XXL 



World's Fourth Sabbath-School Convention. 

THE First World's Sabbath- School Convention was 
held in London, England, July the first, through 
the sixth, 1889. About three hundred and fifty delegates 
were in attendance from America. The convention met 
in Congregational Memorial Hall and City Temple. 
There were representatives from America, England, Ire- 
land, Nova Scotia, India, Australia, West Indies, China, 
Germany, France, Switzerland, Holland, Denmark, Italy 
and Sweden. 

The Second Convention met at St. Louis, September 
the third, through the sixth, 1893. Addresses were made 
at this gathering by delegates from England, Scotland, 
Germany, Sweden, India, Holland, Italy, France, Nor- 
way, Switzerland, Denmark and Japan. 

The Third Convention was held in London, July the 
eleventh, through the sixteenth, 1898. More than two 
hundred and fifty American delegates were there. The 
following countries were represented at that convention : 
England, Ireland, Newfoundland, Australia, India, Aus- 
tria, Belgium, France, Germany, Holland, Italy, Norway, 
Sweden, Switzerland, Japan, Hawaii, South Africa, 
Canada and the United States. 

The Fourth Convention was held in Jerusalem, April 
the seventeenth, through the nineteenth, 1904. The con- 
in calvary's vention met in an immense tent, pitched 

shadow near .^ e c a i var y ridge. The first session 
was held on Sabbath morning. The platform was deco- 



SABBATH-SCHOOL CONVENTION. 183 



rated with more than twenty flags of the foremost nations 
of the world. Sitting in that assembly were patriarchs 
of the Greek Church, monks of the Franciscan Order, 
the Sultan's press censor for Palestine, the Samaritan 
high priest and his son, from Shechem — all in their 
official dress. There were Mohammedans, Coptics, 
Greeks, Arabians, Romanists, Armenians, Syrian Chris- 
tians, Christian Jews, Polish, Aleppo and Spanish He- 
brews, while Christian missionaries, fresh from the field of 
service, were gladdened by the sight of this cosmopolitan 
assembly. The universal interest illustrated the influence 
and power of the Christian religion in a most graphic 
manner. Three-quarters of an hour before the appointed 
time for service the singing of hymns began. The first 
song was "Blue Galilee." It had a new meaning to the 
hundreds who had looked into the face, trodden the shores 
and sailed upon the bosom of the lake within the preced- 
ing fortnight. "Love Divine, all Love Excelling," was 
the last hymn rendered, just before the formal opening of 
the convention by Mr. W. N. Hartshorn, of Boston, 
chairman of the International Committee. 

"By the good providence of our Heavenly Father, we 
have reached the goal of our cruise," were the happy 
words with which he began his brief address. 

Prayer, hymn and Scripture reading followed, in which 
the great throng, gathered from all nations on the face 
of the earth, lifted their hearts in devout worship of the 
God of Abraham, of Isaac and of Jacob. I could but 
think of what an inspiration and comfort it would have 
been to the college of apostles, if they could have looked, 
with prophetic eye, down the vista of the centuries, and 
witnessed this assembly of worshippers, representing 
every kindred and people and clime, hard by the place 
where they crucified him. 



184 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



The convention sermon was delivered by William Mac- 
Donald Sinclair, Archdeacon of London. His theme was 
"The Children's Charter," and 'the text Matt. xxi. 15. 

The most memorable service of the convention was the 
celebration of the Lord's Supper at four o'clock in the 
afternoon. More than one thousand followers of Jesus, 
of nearly every name, tongue and nation, sat together at 
that communion table. It was a wonderful service, held 
within so short a distance from where the memorial feast 
was instituted, nearer still to Gethsemane, and under the 
very shadow of Calvary. 

It was not so surprising that a venerable Armenian 
Christian at the service should exclaim, "This is heaven ; 
I am now ready to die," reminding us of the aged Simeon, 
as he took the Holy Child into his arms in the temple 
and pronounced the words of the "Nunc Dimittis," "Now 
lettest thou thy servant depart in peace; for mine eyes 
have seen thy salvation." 

At the evening session there were appropriate addresses 
of welcome by representatives of Jerusalem, and appre- 
ciative responses from the cruise by chosen members. 

There were three full sessions held on Monday and 
Tuesday, morning, afternoon and night, at which topics 
of great importance to the Sabbath-school were ably dis- 
cussed. 

The last session was of the nature of a consecration 
service. No meeting of the convention was more dis- 
tinctly typical of its spirit and purpose than the last. 
During that session Ismael Bey, Superintendent of Public 
Instruction in Jerusalem, and press censor for Palestine, 
was introduced. He had been present at every meeting 
to see that nothing unlawful was done by 
Moslem speaks. ^ convention, and addressed the great 
assembly with these words : "I wish first of all to thank 



SABBATH-SCHOOL CONVENTION. 185 



you for the invitation of the committee to attend the 
meetings of this convention, also for your kind introduc- 
tion of me to this great audience, and for your expression 
to our honored Governor of Jerusalem, Kazzim Bey. I 
had the honor to convey to his Excellency your action of 
last Sunday, and I now have the honor of bringing to 
you his thanks for the same. In my official position I 
can sympathize with every effort to elevate the young. 
Should you ever again hold your convention in Jerusalem 
you may be sure of my welcome, and of my doing all in 
my power to help it on. I sincerely wish that the blessing 
of Almighty God may rest upon you as you leave this 
sacred city and return to your great Anglo-Saxon lands 
in the West." 

A trusted general of his Majesty, king of kings, Mene- 
lik of Abyssinia, was in the Holy City on a mission for 
the crown. He was a gray-bearded, ebony-hued man. 
He spoke, through an interpreter, these words : "I am 
very much pleased to be here to witness the proceedings 
of this meeting; and it shall not only benefit me, but 
it shall also benefit his Majesty, the King. We are born 
into this world to study, and especially to learn about 
the Bible and ancient things. I hold that Christianity is 
to be the light of the world, and to proceed for ever and 
ever." 

This central African officer contributed four of the one 
hundred dollars offered as a birthday gift to the youngest 
member of 'the international family of Sunday-school 
associations. The vigorous, promising infant was born 
that very day in the city of Jerusalem, and named "The 
Sunday-School Association of Palestine." 

Near the close of the session a dignified old gentleman 
tottered to his feet and asked to be heard. His name was 
Joseph Pasha, ex-Mayor of Jerusalem and a member of 



186 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the Peace Conference that met in Berlin. His words 
were: "I thank you from my heart, because I believe 
you have come to our country in peace. Thanks to God, 
you have been good, reasonable people. I beg you to 
read with me the nineteenth Psalm." And then the aged 
man read aloud to the convention, with the genuine feel- 
ing and deep impressiveness of the true Oriental, that 
matchless hymn of David. This act was so unexpected 
that it had the force of a decided sensation upon the 
audience. 

In the convention there were twenty-five countries rep- 
resented by one thousand five hundred and twenty-six 
The Forces of delegates: The United States, Jerusalem, 
the Gentiles, other sections of Palestine, England, Can- 
ada, Scotland, Turkey in Asia, Ireland, Japan, Wales, 
India, Mexico, Bulgaria, Egypt, Russia, Switzerland, 
Denmark, Turkey in Europe, Australia, West Indies, 
Austria, Germany, Madeira, South Africa, New Zealand, 
Newfoundland. 

The three countries with the largest representation 
were : United States, 701 ; Palestine, 449 ; England, 206. 
In our ship's company there were twenty-seven denomi- 
nations represented. 

The three having the largest delegations being : Pres- 
byterian, 175; Methodist, 151; Baptist, 120. 

There were two hymns sung in closing : "Blest be the 
Tie that Binds" and "God be with You Till We Meet 
Again." 

The Jerusalem Convention had as its keynote the 
spread of the gospel to the ends of the earth. From this 
gathering of the servants of Christ from all quarters of 
the globe we have a right to expect great results. 

In the vote suggesting the place for the Fifth World's 
Sabbath- School Convention there were 814 votes cast, 



SABBATH-SCHOOL CONVENTION. 187 



seventy-seven places voted for, in twenty-six different 
countries. Toronto received the highest vote, 133. The 
selection of a place will be left to the Executive Com- 
mittee. 

The convention dissolved with the apostolic benedic- 
tion. 

The delegates were never to meet again till they meet 
with the blood-w r ashed throng around the great white 
throne, in the New Jerusalem, the city that hath founda- 
tions, whose builder and maker is God. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



Bethlehem and Joppa. 

OUR visit to Bethlehem was a delight. At the Jaffa 
Gate we took a carriage and drove down by the 
Lower Pool of Gihon, crossing the gorge upon the em- 
bankment of the pool. Thence we went southward, pass- 
ing the Rothschild Addition, on the right, and the Hill 
of Evil Counsel, Aceldema, the Vale of Hinnom and 
Judas' Tree, on our left. The road is a fine one, follow- 
ing the watershed nearly all the way. It is six miles to 
"David's Town." Every step of the way is historic. 

Along this road Abraham journeyed with Isaac. In 
after years Isaac and Rebekah passed this way. Later 
still, when Jacob returned from Padan-Aram, he travelled 
this very road with his beloved Rachel. The original 
name for Bethlehem was Ephrath or Ephratah. "And 
they journeyed from Bethel ; and there was but a little 
way to come to Ephrath. . . . And Rachel died, and 
was buried in the way to Ephrath, which is 

Rachel's Tomb. J r 

Bethlehem. And Jacob set up a pillar upon 
her grave: that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this 
day." There, on the west side of the highway, is the 
tomb of Rachel, which no one can visit without being 
touched with the memory of the pathetic record of the 
infinitely sad providence referred to above. 

Spreading out toward the west was the plain of 
Rephaim, or the Field of the Giants, the scene of the 
many conflicts between the Israelites and the Philistines. 
It was there that David met and slew Goliath, the giant 



BETHLEHEM AND JOPPA. 189 



of Gath. "And he took his staff in his hand, and chose 
five smooth stones out of the brook, and put them in a 
shepherd's bag which he had, even in a scrip; and his 
sling was in his hand : and he drew near to the Philistine. 
. . . Then David said to the Philistine, Thou comest 
to me with a sword, and with a spear, and with a shield : 
but I come to thee in the name of the Lord of hosts, the 
God of the armies of Israel, whom thou hast defied. 
. . . And David put his hand in his bag, and took 
thence a stone, and slang it, and smote the Philistine in 
his forehead, that the stone sunk into his forehead ; and 
he fell upon his face to the earth. . . . And David 
took the 'head of the Philistine, and brought it to Jeru- 
salem ; but he put his armor in his tent." 

To the east, before we reached Bethlehem, we passed 
the field of Boaz, where Ruth toiled among the gleaners 
in support of Naomi, her mother-in-law, Whom she loved. 

A little further on was the village of 'the shepherds, 
where they watched their flocks by night, when the heav- 
enly messenger appeared and announced the birth of 
Jesus. "And there were in the same country shepherds 
abiding in the field, keeping watch over their flock by 
night. And lo ! the angel of the Lord came upon them, 
and the glory of the Lord shone round about them : and 
they were sore afraid. And the angel said unto them, 
Fear not ; for behold I bring you good tidings of great 
joy, which shall be to all people. For unto you is born 
this day in the City of David a Saviour, which is Christ 
the Lord. . . . And suddenly there was with the angel 
a multitude of the heavenly host, praising God and say- 
ing, Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, 
good will toward men." 

As we were entering the city we came to a gate in the 
wall, on our left, opening upon a court, in which was 



190 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the Well of David. This is the well at the 

David's Well. r , . , . , Tr . 

gate, for a drink of whose water King 
David longed While in the hold of the Cave of Adullam. 
"Now three of the thirty captains went down to the rock 
to David, into the cave of Adullam ; and the host of the 
Philistines encamped in the valley of Rephaim. And 
David was then in the hold, and the Philistines' garrison 
was then at Bethlehem. And David longed, and said, 
O that one would give me a drink of the water of the 
well of Bethlehem, that is at the gate. And the three 
broke through the host of the Philistines, and drew water 
out of the well of Bethlehem, that was by the gate, and 
took it and brought it to David : but David would not 
drink it, but poured it out to the Lord." 

The spot where all interest is concentrated in Bethle- 
hem is the Church of the Nativity, for this sanctuary is 
built over the site of the Bethlehem Caravanserai. The 
streets through which we were led to this church were 
narrow, crooked and unevenly paved. There is great 
satisfaction in visiting Bethlehem, because there exists no 
doubt as to the identity of the spot where the Prince of 
Peace was born. 

The Church of the Nativity stands within the walls 
of a monastery. The basilica was built in 'the year 327 
A. D., by the Emperor Constantine, and it is the only one 
of the churches now remaining in Palestine erected by 
that Christian ruler. The door by which we entered was 
hardly four feet high. After walking through a dark 
vestibule we were inside the sacred edifice. 

The Latin, Greek and Armenian Christians jointly own 
the monastery. All three of these denominations wor- 
ship in the church, each having its own section, altar 
and order of worship. A flight of steps leads down to 
the Grotto of the Nativity, for the ancient khan was 



The Place of the Manger. 



BETHLEHEM AND JOPPA. 



hewn out of the natural rock. There we saw the tomb 
of Eusebias, and the study and tomb of the great Jerome. 
Here this wonderful historian and scholar performed his 
best services, and here his ashes rest. There, too, we 
saw the "Altar of the Innocents," which marks the place 
where twenty thousand children, under two years of age, 
slaughtered by the brutal Herod, found a place of burial. 

The Chapel of the Nativity is eleven feet wide by thirty- 
eight long. At the east end a marble slab in the floor, 
The Place of with a silver star in the centre, bears these 
His Birth. words '. "Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus 
Christus Natus Est" — "Here Jesus Christ was born of 
the Virgin Mary." Here we saw the place of the manger. 
A marble trough represents the real praesepium or man- 
ger, which was taken to Rome and placed in the great 
Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. 

How wonderful does it all seem as you stand there and 
try to realize where you are, and that you are standing 
on the very ground where the eternal Son of God humbled 
himself to be born of a woman, and to be enrobed in 
human form — God incarnate ! "And she brought forth 
her firstborn son, and wrapped him in swaddling clothes, 
and laid him in a manger; because there was no room 
for them in the inn." 

The name Bethlehem is a pure Hebrew word, and 
means House of Bread. How divinely appropriate is it 
that it should be the birthplace of him who has declared 
himself to be the Bread of Life ! 

Bethlehem is an attractive town of about eight thou- 
sand inhabitants — all Christians. Nearly one-half are 
Modem Romanists, about three thousand Greek 

Bethlehem. Catholics, and the rest Armenians. The 
city is clean and healthy, and the people are industrious 
and thrifty. Bethlehem was the home of Jesse, the de- 



192 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



scendant of Boaz, being in the direct ancestral line of 
him who was of the stem of Jesse. This was also the 
birthplace of the illustrious David, and hence Bethlehem 
is called the City of David. 

We visited the pretty little shops of the city, and were 
soon on our way back to Jerusalem. On the return trip 
we stopped for a cup of water at Elijah's Well, on the 
east side of the road. There Elijah is said to have rested 
on his way to Beersheba, as he fled from the face of the 
wicked Jezebel. We went back to Jerusalem that evening, 
thanking God for the inexpressible privileges that had 
been ours that day. 

It was with great reluctance that we left the most inter- 
esting city in all the world and drove to the station to 
take the train for the ancient seaport of Joppa. On our 
left we passed the thriving German colony, beyond which 
lay the Bukeia, or Plain of Rephaim. Further on to the 
left we passed Ain el-Haniyeh, or Philip's Fountain, the 
traditional place of the baptism of the eunuch of Ethiopia 
by Philip. There we entered the Valley of Roses, so 
named from the wild roses that bloom in such profusion 
in that sweet vale. 

I was delighted, when looking out on each side, to see 
the beautiful pink and white wild roses greeting us at 
every turn of the winding road, and filling the air with 
their delicious fragrance. Picturesquely situated at the 
head of the great mountain gorge is the village of Bittir, 
or Bether of the Song of Solomon: "My beloved is mine, 
and I am his ; he feedeth among the lilies. Until the day 
break, and the shadows flee away, turn my beloved, and 
be thou like a roe or a young hart upon the Mountains 
of Bether." Thence we made a very rapid descent 
through the wild, rugged canon, passing the Rock Etam, 
or Cave of Samson, where the son of Manoah dwelt, after 



BETHLEHEM AND JOPPA. 



the slaughter of the Philistines. A little farther down 
we came in 'sight of the ruins of Bethshemesh, on the top 
of the ridge to the right. 

After the capture of the ark by the Philistines, and 
the death of Eli, the ark of the Lord was brought from 
Ebenezer to Ashdod, and placed in the house of Dagon, 
their god. The next day they found Dagon 
prostrated and broken on the floor. They 
then sent the ark to Ekron, but the Ekronites cried out for 
fear, till "the cry of the city went up to heaven." They 
built a new cart, and yoked two milch kine to the cart, 
while they confined their calves at home. "They laid the 
ark of the Lord upon the cart, and the kine took the 
straight way to the way of Bethshemesh. And the Le- 
vites took down the ark of the Lord, and the men of 
Bethshemesh offered burnt offerings and 'sacrificed sacri- 
fices the same day unto the Lord." 

As we sped along we were carried through the Valley 
of Sorek, so inseparably interwoven with the downfall 
of Samson. There he is enticed, he is shorn of his 
strength, he is bereft of his eyes, he is made to grind in 
the mill at Gaza, and his last day is spent in making sport 
for his enemies, the lords of the Philistines, when they 
had assembled to offer sacrifice to Dagon in praise for 
his having delivered into their hands Samson, their most 
dreaded foe. 

On our way to Joppa we passed through the most fer- 
tile region in all of Palestine. Ekron, Ashdod and Ram- 
leh lay in ruins to the south of the road, in plain view. 

To the north we could see the ruins of Gezer, where 
the work of excavation is being vigorously pushed. The 
discoveries at Gezer are of great interest to the historian 
and archaeologist; for Pharaoh captured this city and 
gave it for a present to his daughter, Solomon's wife. 



194 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Situated on the highway between Syria and Egypt, Solo- 
mon wisely rebuilt and fortified Gezer. 

Between Ramleh and the mouth of the great canon 
we passed through the valley of Aijalon, where Joshua 
defeated the Amorites. I't is still more notable as the 
place where the sun and the moon stood still till the de- 
struction of the enemies of Israel was complete. "Then 
spake Joshua to the Lord in the day when the Lord de- 
livered up the Amorites before the children of Israel, and 
he said in the sight of Israel, Sun, stand thou still upon 
Gibeon ; and thou, moon, in the Valley of Aijalon. And 
the sun stood still, and the moon stayed, until the people 
had avenged themselves upon their enemies." 

The railroad passed through Lydda, only twelve miles 
from the city of Joppa. 

The Plain of Sharon stretches from Mount Carmel on 
the north to Gaza on the south, and from the Great Sea 
to the hills. This plain is from eight to 
twelve miles wide and forty-four long. 
Here the blue iris, the "lily of the valley/' and the white 
narcissus, the "rose of Sharon," abound. Gardens and 
corn-fields fill the plain, while orchards of pomegranates, 
fields of melons, groves of oranges, lemons, citrons, figs 
and apples, interspersed with scarlet poppies and tulips, 
make a scene of endless glory, above which wave the 
groves of graceful palms. Butterflies, bees and birds fill 
the air, and a soft haze enhances its beauty. 

As we rode through the wheat and barley fields the 
fellahin were harvesting the grain with the antiquated 
sickle. The crude plow, the wooden fork and the thresh- 
ing floors are much as they were several millenniums ago. 

Passing through the orange groves, we were greeted 
with the welcome sight of the fragrant blossoms, the 
green, half-grown fruit and the golden, ripe oranges — 



BETHLEHEM AND JOPPA. 195 

all on the same trees at the same time. The Joppa oranges 
have a reputation all over Syria and Palestine. 

Up the coast is the desolate and deserted site of Csesa- 
rea, where the first Gentile convert to Christianity was 
baptized., whither Paul was brought from Jerusalem, and 
where he lived for two years. 

Through the Plain of Sharon lay the great historical 
highway between Asia and Africa. Along this caravan 
Historic road marched the armies of the ancient 

Highway. W orld — Thotmes, Rameses, Shalmaneser, 
Sargon, Sennacherib, Necho, Cambyses, Alexander, Pom- 
pey and Vespasian. Through this plain, Napoleon Bona- 
parte hurried his forces to meet Abdullah's Turks. 

Joppa is one of the oldest known cities of the world. 
Pliny says it existed before the flood, and Josephus tells 
us that the Phoenicians built the city. It has always been 
the port of Jerusalem, and to it was brought the timbers 
for the first and second temples. From it Jonah took 
passage for Tarshish when he was trying to flee from 
the presence of the Lord. "But Jonah rose up to flee 
unto Tarshish from the presence of the Lord, and went 
down to Joppa ; and he found a s'hip going to Tarshish : 
so he paid the fare thereof, and went down into it, to go 
with them unto Tarshish from the presence of the Lord." 

Joppa was the home of Dorcas, whom the Apostle 
Peter restored to life, having been summoned, after her 
death, from Lydda, which is nigh to Joppa. 

Here Simon the tanner lived, at Whose house Peter 
tarried for many days. We were shown the traditional 
house, and taken to the flat roof, where 

Peter's Vision. 

Peter at noon saw the vision of the sheet 
let down from heaven, knit at the four corners. While 
Peter was attempting to interpret the vision, three mes- 
sengers, sent by Cornelius the centurion from Csesarea, 



196 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



arrived. They explained that the captain of the Italian 
band 'had also seen a vision. The outcome of this inter- 
view was that Peter went to Csesarea, and Cornelius and 
all the other Gentile converts were baptized. 

Joppa has a population of more than twenty-five thou- 
sand inhabitants. The old walls have been removed, and 
new suburbs, with excellent houses and splendid gardens, 
are springing up on all sides. The present importance 
of Joppa arises from the great number of pilgrims that 
pass through every year on 'their way to Jerusalem. The 
city is built upon a fine elevation, which gives it an attrac- 
tive appearance from the sea, though the streets are nar- 
row and far from cleanly, and the inhabitants are by no 
means prepossessing to the visitor. 
Adieu to At the appointed hour we stepped from the 
Palestine. quay to the row-boats, which tossed like 
corks upon the choppy sea of the inhospitable harbor till 
we embarked, and were once more at home on the Grosser 
Kurfuerst. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



Alexandria to Cairo. 

AT 4 : 30 that afternoon we weighed anchor and put 
out to sea, expecting to arrive at Alexandria the 
next day about noon. 

On the morning of the 21st of April I went on deck 
at seven, to find that we had sailed by the entrance to the 
Suez Canal between midnight and day. We were, how- 
ever, too far from land to see the outline of the coast, 
even if we had passed in the daytime. We could see 
the low, sandy shore, and from the 'houses we judged 
that the country was thickly settled. One city could be 
seen, which had several thousand inhabitants. We sailed 
swiftly, and dropped anchor in the west harbor at Alex- 
andria at 10: 30 a. m. 

We had early lunch, and the passengers were landed 
in small row-boats. At 4 : 30 the two special trains for 
Cairo were filled and on their way up 'the Nile. Mr. 
McLaurin and I remained in Alexandria till the next 
morning. In this way we got to see something of this 
historic city. This was our first opportunity to see any- 
thing of Egyptian life. Alexandria is a beautiful city, 
with elegant, clean streets. It numbers among its inhabi- 
tants many Europeans, and its stores would do credit 
to any American city. 

Alexandria was founded in the year 332 B. C. by 
Alexander the Great, whose name it bears. It has a 
second city population of four hundred thousand, and 
in Africa. [ s fo e S e COn 'd largest city in Africa. It was 
the Greek capital of Egypt. 



198 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



The city stands on the west side of the Delta of the 
Nile, about twelve miles from the mouth of the left branch 
of the river. It was built upon a stretch of land lying 
between the Mediterranean and Lake Mareotis. An arti- 
ficial dyke, known as the "Heptastadia," or seven-furlong 
mole, connects it with the small island of Pharos. 

On the east end of this island Sostratos erected the 
famous lighthouse, which was one of 'the seven wonders 
of the world. It stood five hundred and ninety feet in 
height, and conferred the name "pharos" upon all light- 
houses afterwards constructed. It was destroyed by an 
earthquake in the fourteenth century, and since the fif- 
teenth century the site has been occupied by a military 
stronghold, "Fort du Phare." 

Nine years after founding the city, Alexander died at 
Babylon, and his remains were taken to Alexandria in 
a golden casket, upon a splendid car, and placed in a tem- 
ple dedicated to his memory. 

This city boasts of one of the finest harbors in the 
world — indeed, it was possessed of two, known as Port 
Est and Port Ouest. The port is visited every year by 
an average of twenty-five hundred freighting steamers, 
more than half of which fly the English Jack. During 
its entire history it has been, the principal port through 
which commerce between Egypt and the rest of the world 
was carried on. The chief exports are cotton, grain, 
cotton seed, beans, rice, sugar, onions, dates. 

The principal object of interest in Alexandria is Pom- 
pey's Pillar. This monument stands on the site of the 
ancient Serapeum, or Temple of Serapis. It is of red 
granite from Assuan, in Upper Egypt. The height of the 
column is eighty-nine feet. The round, slightly tapering 
shaft, exclusive of its foundation and Corinthian capital, 
is a monolith sixty-nine feet high. Its diameter at the 



ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO. 



base is nine feet, while it is eight at the top. The pillar 
was erected as a landmark to sailors, and afterwards was 
surmounted by a statue of the Emperor Diocletian. The 
name of Pompey's Pillar is given to it because it is sup- 
posed to occupy the site of the tomb of Pompey the Great. 

There are two of the famous obelisks that will always 
be associated with Alexandria. They are called Cleopa- 
tra's Needles, because they were transported from Heli- 
opolis to Alexandria and set up there for her glory. One 
of these the Khedive presented to the United States, and 
the other he gave to the good Queen Victoria. The 
former stands on a commanding site in Central Park, 
New York; the latter on the Thames Embankment, just 
above the Waterloo Bridge, on the left bank of the 
Thames, in London. 

But great as Alexandria was in other respects, its chief 
glory was its institutions of learning. From the time 
Centre of of Ptolemy Soter there was a splendid col- 
Learning. j e g e there. Through these schools the city 
became the most renowned seat of learning in all the 
branches of science and literature, and the learned flocked 
thither from all the countries of the world. Among her 
instructors and pupils she had the honor of enrolling the 
illustrious names of Apollonius, Aristarchus, Aristo- 
phanes, Athanasius, Callimachus, Clement, Euclid, Ori- 
gen, and a host of others that have influenced the world. 

What is of still greater interest to the student of bibli- 
cal history is that it was at Alexandria, and for the use 
of its University, that the celebrated Greek 
F of s^pu^ " translation of the Old Testament Scriptures 
was made, which is known as the Septua- 
gint Version, or the translation by the committee of sev- 
enty. Its schools of learning, first pagan, then Jewish 
and lastly Christian, maintained their reputation till the 



20o CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



city was taken by Khalif Omar. Her conquerors were 
astonished at 'the greatness and splendor of their prize. 

We spent the night at the Grand Abbat Hotel, where 
we were cared for in the best possible manner. The next 
morning we were up at five, and moving out from the 
station toward Cairo by seven. 

The distance between the two cities is one hundred and 
twenty-nine miles. A more enjoyable ride I never had 
than that one up through the Delta. It was an unbroken 
land of plenty all the way. I never saw such productive 
soil. There is nothing like it in the world. Everywhere 
I was reminded of the Scripture statement that during 
the seven years of plenty the earth brought forth by hand- 
fuls. We first crossed the Rosetta, and then the Dami- 
etta branch of the Nile, before reaching Cairo. The 
abundant yields of wheat, barley, oats, clover, beans, rice, 
corn, sugar cane, sorghum, cotton, oranges, figs, bananas, 
apricots, peaches, lemons, dates — all bore eloquent testi- 
mony to the phenomenal f ertility of the soil. 

The land is well tilled, but their farming implements 
are of the most primitive sort. The ancient one-handled 
plow, .seen throughout Syria and Palestine, is universally 
used in Egypt. The water-buffaloes are, for the most 
part, employed in drawing the plows. 

All the land is irrigated by means of steam pumps, 
water-wheels, sweeps or chadoufs, inclined hand pumps 
and Archimedean cylinders. The water is 
lifted from canals and wells all over the 
Delta. Hundreds of these institutions we saw in opera- 
tion on the way to the metropolis. 

One of the staple productions of the Delta is rice, the 
culture of which is most interesting and extensive. The 
fellahin were planting the rice in the mud and water, and 
trampling and harrowing it in with the buffaloes, while 



ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO. 201 



they were wading in the mud, sometimes up to their 
knees. The barley and wheat fields were ripening for 
the sickle ; and it is the literal sickle by which the grain 
is harvested. 

The cotton is planted once in two years. In August 
of the second year the cotton is pruned for the maturing 
of a second crop. The rows are about eighteen inches 
wide, and the stalks from ten to twelve indies apart in 
the row. The plant grows to a height of seven feet, 
but it does not branch out as our cotton in the American 
Southland does. The bolls are much smaller than ours, 
having only three pods, instead of four and five, as with 
us. The staple is not so white, but yellowish, resembling 
what is known as "Nankeen" cotton. The seed is not 
so large, but of the same shape as the American species. 
All over the country are ginneries, and cotton-seed oil 
mills are seen at every important town. The boll weevil 
has not made his appearance in Egypt. 

Egypt has never failed in history, except by miracle, 
in the time of Joseph, to produce a crop, although it sel- 
dom rains. 

The incredible richness of the soil is due to the annual 
overflow of the Nile. This overflow begins by the middle 
of June, and continues till the middle of October, attain- 
ing its maximum height the last of September. The 
lowest water mark is reached in the last of May. The 
main difference between the maximum and minimum at 
Cairo is twenty-five feet. 

The annual overflow of the Nile is caused by the great 
rainfall near the Equator and the melting of the snow 
on the Abyssinian Mountains. The yearly 
Yearly Flood. cr0 p S are assured, because of their perfect 
system of irrigation. The most expert civil engineers are 
employed in the great work of locating the network of 



202 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



canals throughout the arable part of Egypt. Of course, 
it is a desert land beyond the territory inundated by the 
Nile. 

The cultivable land is divided by nature into two parts. 
The one will produce a crop without artificial flooding, 
while the other must be irrigated. As a rule, rice is cul- 
tivated on the former and cotton on the latter. The coun- 
try of Egypt extends from the Mediterranean on the 
north to the first Cataract on the south, and from the 
Arabian Desert on the east to the Libyan Desert on the 
west. The arable territory of Egypt is estimated at about 
thirteen thousand square miles, depending upon the 
height to which Father Nile rises. 

The Nile is one of the three longest rivers in the world, 
measuring four thousand miles in length. It rises three 
degrees south of the Equator, and empties into the Great 
Sources of Sea at 31 ° 36' north latitude. This great 

the Nile. river is formed by the confluence of the 
White and the Blue Niles at the city of Khartoum. 

The White Nile rises in the Great African Lakes, and 
is thrice the size of the Blue Nile, which finds its source 
in the mountains of Abyssinia. 

The White Nile is so called from the clearness of its 
waters, while the Blue takes its name from the dark ap- 
pearance of its muddy waters, bearing their burden of rich 
soil, washed down from the mountain sides. 

It will thus be seen that Egypt owes its unparalleled 
fertility to the latter, while the system of irrigation is 
dependent upon the more abundant supply of water from 
the former. 

The Nile runs in a single channel for a distance of 
thirteen hundred and fifty miles, from the junction of the 
two Niles at Khartoum to the point twelve miles north of 
Cairo. There the Nile divides its waters into the Dami- 



ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO. 203 



etta and Rosetta branches, the one running to the north- 
east and the other in a northwesterly direction. 

Nearly the entire length of the Nile is navigable, it 
having only two great cataracts to interrupt navigation 
from its sources to its mouths. At no place is the river 
very wide, measuring as it does only eleven hundred yards 
at each of its three widest points, near Khartoum, Minyeh 
and Cairo* ; though the White Nile is considerably broader 
throughout a great part of its course south of Khartoum. 

The breadth of the Nile Valley is from six to ten 
miles in Nubia, and from fifteen to thirty-five in Egypt. 
The alluvial deposit of the Delta averages from thirty-five 
to fifty feet, the average deposit within the past three 
thousand years being six inches to the century. 

There are two great dams, called barrages, at Assuan, 
and just below where the Nile separates into the Damietta 
and Rosetta branches. The purpose of those 
barrages is to conserve and control the 
waters of the river for the great irrigation enterprises. 
The flow of the waters is guaged by a perfect system of 
iron sluice gates. The breast of the dam at Assuan is 
one mile and a quarter long, one hundred feet high and 
eighty-eight feet thick at the base. The water in the 
dam is sixty-five feet deep. The dam is built of solid 
granite masonry. There were ten thousand men em- 
ployed in the construction of this dam, which occupied 
nearly five years for its completion. The cost was above 
ten millions, but it is estimated that the gain to Egypt, 
through the irrigation of lands reclaimed from the desert, 
will annually equal the cost of the building of the dam. 

From time immemorial Egypt has been divided into 
two unequal parts, known as Upper and Lower Egypt. 
The terms "Upper" and "Lower" have reference to the 
direction of the current of the river, hence Upper Egypt 



204 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 

lies south of Cairo, while the Delta is embraced in Lower 
Egypt. The dividing line between the two sections runs 
a little to the south of Cairo. 

The Nile is one of the very few great rivers on the 
globe flowing north. Its channel is deep, as is shown by 
the high mud banks at low-water mark, these being 
twenty-five feet in Upper Egypt and fourteen feet at 
Cairo. 

Egypt is called the "Gift of the Nile," and it is true 
that no other country has been so influenced by a river 
as Egypt by her great river. This unusual dependence 
of Egypt upon the Nile is due to the fact that practically 
no rain falls, and also that 'the dry winds from the desert 
readily absorb whatever of moisture there is in the Nile 
Valley. 

The annual inundation of the River of Egypt was the 
occasion of the ancient people of Northeastern Africa 
studying the science of river engineering and land sur- 
veying. The necessity for controlling and utilizing the 
water forced them to consider such problems and to solve 
them. 

The system of astrology also had its beginning in that 
same country. The Egyptians learned to observe the 
same features in the face of the heavens about the time 
that the waters began to rise and when they began to 
recede. This came about in the most natural way. And 
as astrology is the mother of astronomy, this latter per- 
fected science may be regarded as owing a great deal to 
this fertile district. 

The yearly flood blotted out all lines that marked the 
boundaries between neighboring estates, so that it became 
necessary for a record of land controlled by each pro- 
prietor to be kept. It would be difficult to exaggerate the 



ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO. 205 



influence of the periodic tides of the Nile upon the estab- 
lishment of social and political economy. 

This river was also the great highway by which the 
people travelled and transported their belongings from 
place to place within their own borders. Also, when the 
time came for the building of their great temples and 
monuments, the Nile offered the only possible channel by 
which materials from Upper and Lower Egypt could 
have been carried for those structures, that have out- 
lived so many centuries. Within the historic period no 
noticeable change has taken place in the Nile. 

One thing in connection with the whole subject of 
the Nile and its influence upon the world that interested 
me specially was the "Nilometer." This 
consists of a graduated stone pillar, set in 
the water of the river, as a guage to its height. It has 
been used from the earliest periods of human history. 
There is one of those invaluable instruments in the great 
Museum in Cairo. It is of a single piece, and bears upon 
its sides the marks that are noted in Egyptian characters. 
At Assuan and Cairo they are still in use. 

The Nilometer controls the price of all products that 
spring from the soil — indeed, it regulates the price of 
everything that is bought and sold in Egypt, and that, too, 
without a competitor. The reason of this is that the 
height to which % the water rises will determine the area 
covered and enriched by the Nile. If the waters rose 
higher than usual at a certain date, ic meant that the har- 
vest would be greater, and as there is an unvarying rela- 
tion between supply and demand, the prices would be 
correspondingly low. This principle controlled their in- 
ternal commerce before Abraham visited that land, and 
it still remains, and will always continue to decide the 
prices of every marketable product. 



206 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



Father Nile is the dictator, and the Nilometer is his 
faithful servant to register his plans and communicate 
them from day to day. It would astonish any observer 
to see how great an influence the Nilometer exerts over 
the European and Asiatic markets, because the fertile soil 
of the Delta is the source from which millions of pounds 
of produce are drawn by all Asia and Europe every year. 

On the little island of Rhoda, just above the city of 
Cairo, right near the spot where the baby Moses was 
found among the flags, 'there stands the government Nilo- 
meter. It consists of a well with a marble shaft set in 
the centre of it. Here, on this shaft, the work of register- 
ing is inerrantly done. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 
The Great Pyramid and the Sphinx. 

THE greatest monument in the land of Egypt is the 
Pyramid of Cheops, at Gizeh, or the Great Pyramid. 
Cairo is situated on the right or east bank of the Nile. 
We crossed the river on the Great Bridge on our way 
to Gizeh, eight miles to the southwest. The avenue led 
between two rows of acacia trees that lined each side 
of an artificial embankment. On the drive we met a 
dozen trains of camels, laden with rich clover from the 
productive fields. 

All along the road the fellahin were offering delicious 
strawberries for sale. The little baskets were woven out 
of the meadow grasses. We halted at a well for a drink 
of water, where I bought some of the berries. For per- 
fection of flavor I do not think those Egyptian straw- 
berries could be surpassed in all the world. 

As the carriage moved along, the Great Pyramid held 
us as with an irresistible charm. The majesty of it was 
enough to overawe the thoughtful. And yet its propor- 
tions are so perfect, its symmetry is so fine, as not to 
shock you in the least. The great structure must be 
studied in order to be appreciated, even when one is on 
the ground. 

The Great Pyramid is built upon a foundation Which is 
a perfect square, with seven hundred and sixty-eight feet 
to the side. The perpendicular height is 
four hundred and eightyntwo feet; the 
angle made by the slope with the base is 51 ° 50', and the 



208 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



length of the side from the base to the apex is six hundred 
and ten feet. 

The pyramid of Cheops is built upon a plateau of hard 
sandstone. The materials of which it is constructed are 
sandstone, limestone and granite. The Great Pyramid 
covers an area of nearly thirteen acres ; about two million 
three hundred thousand separate blocks of stone, aver- 
aging forty cubic feet, were required for its construction, 
and one hundred thousand men were employed in its erec- 
tion. Twenty years was the time that it took to place 
this monument where it now stands. The pyramid 
measures over three million two hundred and fifty thou- 
sand cubic yards. 

A road of polished stone was constructed for the trans- 
portation of the rock from the Mokattam Quarry, east of 
the Nile. This road was sixty feet wide, and in places 
its surface was forty-eight feet above the ground over 
which it passed. Ten years were taken for the building 
of the road. 

Near the foot of the great structure is the ticket office, 
Where you purchase the privilege of going to the top. 
There I stood playing with a cream-colored baby camel 
till my turn came to be served. There were not over 
thirty that cared to make the journey. I secured two 
muscular, agile Bedouin Arabs to aid me in making the 
ascent. 

When the pyramid was built it was polished from the 
top downward. Thus it stood till the vandal Arabians 
disintegrated and carried off the outer layer. This left 
a recess to each layer, all around the pyramid, which 
serves as a step for the climber. But as some of the 
blocks are as much as six feet thick, the climb is by no 
means an easy one. 



THE GREAT PYRAMID. 



209 



The Great Pyramid faces the cardinal points of the 
compass. 

We ascended by the northeast corner, and made the 
descent by the southwest. Sometimes my assistants were 
climbing the pulling, then they were lifting and pushing, 
Great pyramid anc [ a g. a i n they were supporting me, to 
guard against falling backwards. The incline is so steep 
that great care must be taken in going up and coming 
down. A misstep, slip or loss of balance might prove 
very disastrous — even fatal. The Bedouins are the best 
possible assistants, for they are held strictly responsible 
by the government for any accident to the visitor. These 
barefooted, stalwart 'denizens of the desert, with white 
turban, gown and sash, are as fearless and active as 
mountain goats. So, after a hard climb, I gained the 
apex, with a skinned elbow and bruised knee. But I 
forgot the struggle and the slight wounds when I stood 
upright upon the summit and looked at the great picture 
spread out before me. What a picture of life and death 
contrasted ! There, to the southwest, as far as the eye 
could hold up, the great Libyan Desert lay extended 
before my vision. Here I met with a genuine surprise: 
I had imagined that a desert consisted of a 
vast area of level sand ; but quite the reverse 
is true. The surface is very rugged and uneven, being 
diversified with perpendicular cliffs of sandstone and 
thousands of sand hills, built about the great rocks of the 
desert. In that dreary waste no animal or vegetable life 
can exist. After seeing the surface of the desert I could 
appreciate how much greater the danger would be to any 
one at its mercy. 

In sharp contrast with this picture of death was the 
vision of life that greeted me as I looked away in the 
opposite direction. In the southeast the great river looked 



2io CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



like a silver rope, as it lay in the middle of the valley, 
now crooked, now straight, as if it had been carelessly 
let drop by the hand of some Hercules. Very far up the 
valley, as it stretched toward the south, there were abun- 
dant signs of life all along the river. 

Then, as I turned toward the east and north, I saw 
the "Diamond" in the handle of the Delta Fan. What 
a magnificent gem it is, as you look at the greatest of the 
cities of Egypt from the top of Cheops ! Then, beyond 
Cairo, the Nile, the network of irrigating canals and the 
diversified crops on the alluvial plain, present another 
graphic scene of teeming life as it is found only in Egypt. 

One more look toward the south to the ancient capital 
of Egypt, along the line of the pyramids, leading from 
Gizeh to Memphis, through the old cemetery, a distance 
of fourteen miles. But while the desert is a terrific picture 
of desolation and death, the purest breath is that which 
comes from the lifeless sands of Libya. To this breeze 
from the southwest is due in large measure the absence 
of malaria in the Delta. I shall never forget that glorious 
panorama from the finest view-point in all the land of 

Egypt- 

On the way down, the wind from the desert carried of? 
my derby, which sailed out toward the west, and landed 
on the sand one hundred yards from the Great Pyramid. 
As I saw a youthful Bedouin gliding toward my hat, I 
called to a fellow-pilgrim to rescue and keep it for me, 
which he did, without "backsheesh." 

I was one of a small half dozen who went inside the 
Great Pyramid. The entrance is at the north side, and 

Heart of the passage is only three and one-half feet 
pyramid. high and four feet wide. A good part of the 
way I had to crawl and climb, with my taper to give 
light. The temperature of the interior is yg° Fahren- 



THE GREAT PYRAMID. 



heit. The entrance is on the thirteenth tier, and forty- 
eight feet from the ground. The direction of the shaft 
is downward at an angle of nearly twenty-seven degrees 
for a distance of sixty feet. Beyond that point the shaft 
ascends, through the Great Hall, one hundred and fifty- 
five feet in length and twenty-eight feet in height. Here 
the fitting of the huge blocks is so perfectly done that 
you could not insert the point of a cambric needle between 
the joints. This is not a matter of guesswork, but of 
actual experiment. 

Just before reaching the Great Hall I followed the 
horizontal tunnel that led to the "Queen's Chamber." 
This passage is twenty feet long and three feet nine 
inches high. I felt well repaid when I stood in the cham- 
ber by the sarcophagus of the Queen of Cheops. 

The dimensions of the Queen's Chamber are: seven- 
teen feet wide by nineteen feet long by twenty feet high. 
I crawled back to the main passage and struggled up to 
the "King's Chamber." This is the most interesting of 
all the internal features. It is seventeen feet wide, thirty- 
five long and nineteen high. The entire room is lined 
with granite blocks, some of which are nineteen feet in 
length. There is nothing in this chamber but the empty 
granite sarcophagus of the king. I was astonished to 
find how the voice rang in that chamber, in the heart 
of the pyramid. The echo is almost as perfect as in the 
baptistery beside the Duomo, in Pisa. 

With my Bedouin attendant, I made the descent, partly, 
by sliding down the steep incline on the polished granite 
and limestone. I never did appreciate a breath of fresh 
air in the pure sunlight more than when I came out from 
the Great Pyramid. 

It will be seen that the pyramid is essentially a tomb. 
Those chambers and passages were built with the pyra- 



212 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



mid. The sarcophagi were placed in their respective 
chambers, and then the embalmed bodies of the dead were 
taken through the long, narrow shafts and placed in the 
huge stone coffins. At the elbow, the great shaft, three 
hundred and twenty feet long, above described, was her- 
metically closed with highly polished granite blocks, the 
object being to prevent the royal tombs from being dese- 
crated. But the Arabs cut a tunnel across, through the 
softer limestone, to the ascending shaft. 

From the pyramid of Cheops I took my first camel 
ride to the Sphinx, lying not over four hundred yards 
to the southeast. My camel's name was McKinley. 

The riding of the camel is a most thrilling experience. 
The tall, awkward-looking beast is made to kneel or lie 
First camel down for you to mount. You may know 

Ride - that the camel does not lie upon his side 

as the horse or cow does, but folds his long legs and 
tucks his large, spongy feet underneath his body. The 
riding-camel is supplied with a deep saddle. You mount 
into that saddle and hold tightly to the pummel. Then 
the real sensation begins. Like the cow, the camel first 
rises on his hind legs, and then the fore part follows. 
After you are settled in the saddle the process of unset- 
tling begins. With the first movement of the camel you 
are thrown forward so violently and so far that you think 
you must fall — but you do not. Then he begins to rise 
on his fore legs, and you are thrown backward as far 
as you had been thrown forward. Then, after oscillating 
for a little, you prepare for the voyage on the "ship of the 
desert." Now! There is a forward movement to the 
right, then a shuffling motion in the diagonally opposite 
direction. You seem to yourself to be describing a series 
of X's till the end of your journey is reached. Then 
there is more of the thrilling experience. Again he must 



THE GREAT PYRAMID 



213 



kneel or lie down for you to dismount. This he proceeds 
to accomplish by an opposite method. Like the cow, he 
drops to his knees first, and afterwards the hinderpart 
descends. All the experiences of mounting must be re- 
peated in dismounting, except that they, too, are in the 
opposite direction. I advise any one to take one camel 
ride if the opportunity ever presents itself. It may be 
that one such escapade will suffice, though I took a second. 

Second only in interest and antiquity to the pyramids, 
among the ancient monuments of Egypt, is the great 
Sphinx. It was carved out of the natural 
rock. It has the body of a lion and the head 
of a man. The Sphinx is lying down, and looking toward 
the east. Its proportions are colossal. The length is one 
hundred and seventy-two feet ; the height from the pave- 
ment to the top of the head, sixty-six feet ; the face, thirty 
feet long by fourteen wide ; the mouth, seven feet seven 
inches ; the nose, five feet seven inches ; and the ear, four 
feet six inches. A six-foot man, standing on the apex 
of the ear, cannot reach to the top of the head. The 
Sphinx has always represented mystery. 

There was much uncertainty as to the time and pur- 
pose of its construction, as well as to the question by 
whom it was built. 

From inscriptions recently deciphered on the walls of 
the Temple of the Sphinx the mystery seems to have 
been solved. Leading scientists have been led to con- 
clude that the Sphinx is a gigantic image of Ra-Har- 
machis, the god of the morning and the conqueror of 
darkness. Hence, it faces the east. The temple near by 
was erected for the worship of Harmachis. 

Ever since it was cut from the rock-bed the Sphinx 
has lain in the same position, unmoved by the great 
vicissitudes through which the country has passed. It has 



2i 4 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



suffered from the inevitable influence of atmospheric 
changes, and from the effect of the desert sand, driven 
by the winds, slowly cutting away its features. But its 
disintegration is due in greater measure to vandalism 
than to anything else, for the Mamelukes used its face 
as a target in their artillery practice ! Under the control 
of the British, the nefarious business of the treasure- 
seeker and vandal has been decidedly checked. All of 
these ancient marks of human art and skill are guarded 
and defended against further inroads, while the work of 
systematic excavation is being encouraged and aided in 
every way. 

At a distance of less than two hundred feet to the 
southeast of the Sphinx are the splendid ruins of the 
Temple of Temple of the Sphinx. It is built of red 

sphinx. granite and Egyptian alabaster. Only a 
part of the Tuins have been rescued from the encroaching 
sands of the Libyan Desert. One chamber and the pave- 
ments were constructed entirely of alabaster, as were 
some of the walls. Some of the fine monolithic granite 
pillars are still in place, supporting the immense blocks 
of granite used in the structure. The granite was so 
highly polished that you would think it had come from 
the hand of a modern skilled artist. 

To show something of the magnificent scale of the tem- 
ple, it is only necessary to mention that there are two 
halls, the one measuring seventy-nine feet in length and 
twenty-three feet in width, and the other fifty-eight feet 
long by twenty-nine feet wide. 

The wonder is that many of those polished granite 
blocks retain the original sharpness of their corners, and 
show practically no signs of wearing away. No doubt 
this is due largely to the fact that for many centuries 
the ruins were buried beneath the sand; for it is only 



THE GREAT PYRAMID. 



215 



fifty years since the- Temple of the Sphinx was discovered 
and the work of excavation was begun. 

After another delightful ride on the fine camel, "Mc- 
Kinley," I joined the last of the party and returned to the 
modern capital of Egypt for lunch and for mail. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



Heliopolis and Memphis. 

AFTER lunch we took carriages for the wonderful 
drive of ten miles to the most important of all the 
ancient cities of Egypt. "Heliopolis" is but the Greek 
translation of the Hebrew name Bethshemesh, and the 
Egyptian, On. It is called the "City of the 

City of On. _ ,, ' . , 1 r , 

bun, because there the great temple for the 
worship of the sun was erected. 

On the way, just before we reached Heliopolis, the car- 
riages halted, and we had a stroll through the beautiful 
garden in which are the tree and well of the Virgin. The 
tree stands on the traditional spot where stood the tree 
under whose shadow the holy family rested in their flight 
into Egypt. The water of the well from which they 
drank is excellent for drinking. I quite enjoyed a cup of 
this water, as it poured from the earthenware buckets on 
the water-wheel. The wheel was turned by a fine, large 
ox, blindfolded to prevent dizziness. The well is used for 
irrigating the garden and the field near by. A short drive 
farther, and we came to the site of the great university 
city of the time of Joseph. 

The only remains of Heliopolis are the fragments of 
the walls of the city, the meagre ruins of the temple, once 
so magnificent, and the obelisk. 

This obelisk is the oldest known to the world, and is 
the only one now standing in Lower Egypt. It is a red 
Most Ancient granite monolith, sixty-six feet high. A 
obelisk. companion of this shaft now stands in the 



HELIOPOLIS AND MEMPHIS. 217 



American metropolis. It was brought on a specially con- 
structed ship, and set up in Central Park during the 
administration of President Rutherford B. Hayes. The 
surface of the ground has been so raised by the annual 
deposit of the Nile mud that a considerable portion of the 
great shaft was buried beneath it. This has been exca- 
vated to the pedestal, and a square wall has been built 
around it, at a distance of some three feet from its four 
sides. I went down inside the wall, and found that the 
top of the pedestal was six feet below the surface of the 
land about it. 

Heliopolis was the place where Joseph married Ase- 
nath, the daughter of Potipherah, the priest of On. There 
is a captivating little romance preserved in the tradition 
of the people, to the effect that the two royal characters 
met at this obelisk when Joseph offered Asenath his heart 
and hand, and was made happy by her acceptance of his 
offer. 

While in the land of Egypt I learned something that 
interested me very greatly about the obelisks and the 
pyramids. 

The obelisk represented, to the sun-worshipper, a ray 
of light from the god of the day. And as the Egyptians 
regarded the sun as the source of light and life, the obe- 
lisk pictured to them light, life and immortality. On the 
other hand, the pyramid represented shadow, darkness, 
death. The peculiar pyramidal form suggested the set- 
tling down into the earth of the life that had sprung 
from it through the power of the sun, reminding us of 
the Scripture passages, "Dust thou art, and unto dust 
shalt thou return," and "The dust shall return to the earth 
as it was." The pyramid, being a mausoleum, was always 
placed in the necropolis. 

Again, the obelisks were all on the east, or sunrise, or 



218 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



morning, or life side of the great river, and you look in 
vain for one on the west side. The pyramids were all 
on the west, or sunset, or evening, or death side of the 
river, and in vain you search for one of these on the east 
side. This statement applies not only to Lower, but to 
Upper Egypt as well. So, throughout, all the obelisks 
were on the right side of the Nile, while all of the seventy 
pyramids were on the left. What an influence this great 
fact must have exerted upon the Egyptian mind during 
all of those centuries when the Nile Valley held within 
her grasp the wisdom of the world ! 

The ancient Egyptians were a very religious people. 
Herodotus declared that it was as easy to find an object 
of worship in Egypt as a man. One of their theories of 
the sun was that he 'was a powerful hero, born every 
morning of the goddess of the sky, and waging ceaseless 
warfare with the powers of darkness. Another concep- 
tion was that the sun was a hawk, with brilliant plumage, 
flying across the firmament, and chasing away every un- 
friendly cloud. The sun was also regarded as bearing the 
form of the scarabseus or beetle, darting from east to west 
daily, bringing life and joy to the world. These theories 
explain the universal presence of the hawk in their hiero- 
glyphic records on the monuments and temples, and the 
images of the scarab, in gold and precious stones, worn 
as bracelets and necklaces by the mummies in the cities 
of the dead. 

I shall never forget a masterpiece, a creed in marble, 
that I saw in the Vatican Museum. The finished product 
was called "The Nile." It represented a man in the vigor 
of his mature years, reclining upon his left elbow, holding 
a handful of wheat in his right hand, while clusters of 
grapes were at his left shoulder. All over and about the 
strong man were many children, who looked to him for 



HELIOPOLIS AND MEMPHIS. 219 



their support. This embodied the Egyptian conception of 
"Father Nile," surrounded by his dependent children, 
every form of animal and vegetable life in the Nile 
Valley. Judged from a pagan standpoint, it is not 
surprising that the Egyptians should have worshipped 
the Sun, the source of life and light; and the Nile, by 
which they were watered, fed and clothed. 

Leaving the royal city, Heliopolis, where Moses was 
trained in all the learning of the Egyptians, we returned 
to Cairo. We passed the Palais Taufic, or the palace 
of the present Khedive, the Mokattam Hills, and through 
a corner of the land of Goshen. Here in sight of the 
"Barrage du Nil," the riches of earth's harvests were 
everywhere in evidence. 

Returning from Heliopolis to Cairo, we saw the skies 
grow dark, while the air became quite heavy. I thought 
that a storm was brewing, and made inquiry 
of the driver. He laughed, and told me 
that it never rained in that part of the world, but that 
what I saw was a sand storm from the Libyan Desert. 
The winds had lifted and carried a great cloud of sand 
and dust into the air till the face of the sun was entirely 
hidden. The small particles of sand and dust filled the 
atmosphere near the surface of the earth, so that we found 
breathing heavy and difficult for a while. 

The Great Desert has been behaving after that fashion 
from the creation, and the gradual elevation of the Delta 
Battle of * s due to this agency as well as to the Nile 
Elements. deposit. The effect is imperceptible, but 
the same forces at work for ages produce a telling result. 
The tendency of the desert is to encroach steadily, and 
the effort of the Nile is to reclaim his lost territory when 
he annually lifts himself up. Thus the battle has been 



220 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



ever waged between these two great poweis, the Nile 
Valley being the battle-ground. 

The holy Sabbath dawned bright and beautiful. The 
sultry, dust-laden atmosphere of the day before had given 
place to a delightful clear air and sky. Mr. McLaurin 
and I spent the morning in our room reading again the 
fascinating story of Joseph. At ten o'clock we walked 
to the American United Presbyterian mission, and heard 
an admirable sermon from one of our own number, Dr. 
Watkinson, of England. His theme was "Self Denial," 
and the discourse was one of great power. 

After dinner we resumed our reading, and continued 
through the fourteenth chapter of Exodus, where we 
found Moses and the children of Israel on the eastern 
shore of the Red Sea, safe and sound, while the hostile 
Egyptians were buried in a watery grave. The history 
of God's chosen people during their four hundred and 
thirty years' sojourn in Egypt was never before so real, 
vivid and impressive. That was a great day we had 
studying this ancient history of the Israelites upon this 
vantage ground. It was like reading the discourses of 
our Lord on the shore of Galilee and the brow of Olivet. 
At six in the afternoon we again attended worship at the 
mission, and heard a good sermon from Dr. McMillan, 
of Philadelphia, on "Practical Christian Living." 

This mission, founded and supported by the United 
Presbyterian Church of America, has been most richly 
Egyptian blessed from the first. They now have four 

Missions. Presbyteries located along the Nile, form- 
ing the Synod of Egypt. 

Monday morning, April 25th, at 8 : 30, we were in car- 
riages and on our way to the boat landing, where the 
Memphis steamer lay waiting to take us up the river on 
the Memphis-Sakkara trip. The distance from Cairo to 



HELIOPOLIS AND MEMPHIS. 221 



Bedrashen is eighteen miles. No trip could have been 
more refreshing than this fine sail up the Nile. 

On the way we passed the Isle of Rhoda on the left 
hand. There is the famous Nilometer, and the traditional 
spot where the infant Moses was found by 
Basket. tne daughter of Pharaoh in a little basket- 

boat among the bulrushes. 

The excursion, fishing and freighting sailships were 
an interesting study. The style of rigging, as well as the 
shapes of 'the hulls, were isuch as I have seen nowhere 
else. The fishing fleet afforded us a very attractive pic- 
ture, presenting the appearance of a flock of white-winged 
sea gulls, skimming over the surface of the water. As 
we sailed against the rapid current, the Mokattam Hills 
were on our left, while the long line of the pyramids, 
standing upon the edge of the desert, stretched for four- 
teen miles, parallel to the river, on our right. 

The boat's crew gave a* free entertainment (backsheesh 
understood and solicited) on the main deck, both going up 
and down the river. The band consisted of a "tomtom," 
which is made of a hollow, terra-cotta cylinder, flared at 
one end. Over the wider end a piece of rawhide is tightly 
stretched. The musician sits flat on the floor, and thrums 
on the drum end with his fingers. The whole number of 
deck hands keep time to this instrument by clapping their 
hands and dancing. Of course, they are all without shoes 
— indeed, the wardrobe of the average Egyptian could not 
be called a lavish affair. For an entertainment, unique 
in every particular, I commend that given by the crew 
of the Nile Navigation Company. 

At eleven o'clock we moored at the Bedrashen landing, 
and enjoyed our delightful lunch, while the donkeys were 
being made ready for us on the shore. After lunch we 
landed, and our journey across the country began. We 



222 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



passed through the mud-hut village of Bedrashen on the 
way to the site of Egypt's first capital. 

Old Capital. p & V , * 

Inere are lew vestiges of the great Mem- 
phis, but undoubtedly we were riding over the richest of 
treasures to 'the archaeologist. As the work of excavation 
proceeds these treasures will be revealed, as has been the 
case in every other important ruin. The study of the 
great subject of Egyptology would be enough to consume 
the whole time of the ablest and most enthusiastic stu- 
dents of that wonderful realm of the long ago. 

On our ride we soon came to the first of the prostrate 
statues of Rameses II. There, under the graceful, stately 
date palms, the red granite colossus of the 

Rameses II. « i «• »tm 1 

once proud ruler lies. 1 he statue measured 
thirty-one and one-half feet in height, and was excavated 
within a few feet of where it was when we saw it. Only 
a little distance from this is another and larger statue of 
the same king, who was the Pharaoh that oppressed the 
children of Israel. This is of limestone, and is also lying 
prone upon the ground. This colossus, when erect, stood 
forty-two feet high. These colossi stood in the heart of 
the ancient city of Memphis. 

In passing out from Memphis toward the edge of the 
desert, the path led through a glorious grove of date 
palms. The date palm is the most important of the fruit 
trees of Egypt. There are twenty-seven different species 
of date produced in that land. The date palms were in 
full blossom when we were there the last week of April. 
The fruit ripens the latter part of August and first of 
September. 

Our real desert pilgrimage began at the skirt of the 
palms, just south of the ruins of the temple, erected for 
the worship of Ptah. The trip was in every way a novel 
one. Each pilgrim was mounted upon his donkey. The 



HELIOPOLIS AND MEMPHIS. 223 



saddles were fairly good. You were expected to do the 
guiding, while your muleteer did the driving. The instru- 
ment of persuasion carried in the hand of the Egyptian 
is a sharpened stick, about three feet long. Sometimes 
they use this as a whip, and again as a goad. The truth 
is, they employ one method till it becomes ineff ective, and 
then resort to the other. I am sorry to say that at times 
they combine the stimuli, usually with marked success. 
The argument of last resort, with the camel, is croton oil, 
rubbed on the neck and flanks. 

Our objective point was the necropolis of Sakkara. In 
reaching this spot it was necessary for us to traverse a 
cemetery of wide desert space. I was glad of the oppor- 
Memphis. tunity, as it afforded the privilege of seeing 
something of the real waste that we had beheld only at 
a distance, or at its edge. Sakkara is a corruption of the 
Egyptian Sokar, the god of the dead of Memphis. Sak- 
kara was the cemetery of Memphis, and was five miles in 
length, while the pyramids stretch all the way to Ghizeh, 
fourteen miles distant. 

The Step Pyramid announces the presence of the place 
we are seeking. This pyramid, as its name indicates, was 
built with six distinct broad recesses or 

Step Pyramid. 

steps. These recesses are about seven feet 
in width. The first one is thirty-five feet from the foun- 
dation, the second seventy-five, the third one hundred and 
fifteen, the fourth one hundred and forty-eight, the fifth 
one hundred and seventy, and the sixth one hundred and 
ninety-six. The Step Pyramid is one of the very oldest 
historic monuments in Egypt, it being the tomb of King 
Zoses, of the third dynasty. 

Near the great Step Pyramid we visited two tombs of 
the fifth dynasty: that of Ptahhotep, one of the chief 
officers of state, and that of Ti, the royal architect and 



224 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



builder of the pyramids of the kings. Here the highest 
triumphs of Egyptian art are to be seen in the mural-relief 
decorations. These reliefs represent religious and state 
functions of the highest order. Much of the sculpture is 
finely and delicately done. Those two elaborate tombs 
were richly worth the visit, as we saw there the greatest 
achievements of the sculptors of Egypt in her palmiest 
days. 

From there we rode to the celebrated tombs of the 
sacred bulls. These were hewn out of the hard limestone 
Tombs of roc k underneath the Egyptian Serapeum. 

Apis Bulls. The whole length of the great halls is three 
hundred and eighty yards. The height is seventeen and 
one-half feet, and the width ten feet. On each side of 
the halls are the chambers in which the sarcophagi of the 
Apis bulls were placed. 

Apis was the bull sacred to the god Ptah, the ruins of 
whose temple in Memphis is referred to above. The 
sacred animal, after death, was embalmed like a human 
being. The body was then placed in a granite sarco- 
phagus in one of the chambers under the Serapeum. In 
each chamber one sarcophagus was placed, and in twenty- 
four of those chambers there are those mammoth stone 
coffins, averaging seven feet wide by eleven feet high, by 
thirteen feet long, and weighing sixty-five tons each. The 
sarcophagus was hewn out of a single block of red 
granite. 

Those Apis tombs were discovered fifty-two years ago. 
They had been sealed for thirty-eight centuries, and yet 
everything remained as it was the day the body of the 
embalmed animal was interred. Even the finger marks 
were still on the last stone sealing the chamber, and the 
prints of the bare feet of the Egyptians, in the sand were 
undisturbed. 



HELIOPOLIS AND MEMPHIS. 225 



These discoveries seem almost incredible, but the facts 
are there to speak for themselves. The temperature of 
the vaults is seventy-nine degrees Fahrenheit. Of course, 
it is as dark as midnight in the interior, and we were 
lighted throughout with candles. The mummied bodies 
have all been removed, and most of them were placed in 
the Cairo Museum. The Apis tombs were elaborately 
inscribed. What an undertaking it was to cut into the 
solid rock, and form those extensive halls and chambers, 
to say nothing of hewing and transporting from Upper 
Egypt those immense sarcophagi ! 

In all Egypt there is nothing of greater interest than 
the tombs of the sacred bulls, because it was the place 
where the objects of their worship were entombed. Also, 
as the finest exhibit of their art and industry, these tombs 
are second to no other discoveries in importance. 

From this great necropolis we returned across the 
desert sands, and through the palm groves and wheat and 
bean fields to the boat landing, and embarked for Cairo. 
The ride on the little beasts was a jolly one. 

On the way back we halted at the threshing floor of a 
fellah. I mounted the threshing-sled by his side for the 
novel experience of seeing how it was done. This thresh- 
ing machine is a kind of cart on rollers, the rollers con- 
sisting of wooden cylinders armed with iron discs. These 
broad beans form a staple article of diet for the tillers 
of the soil. 

It was a funny sight that we had 01 the donkeys taking 
their sun and sand baths as soon as they had gotten rid 
of their riders and saddles. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



Egypt's Capital and History. 

WE loosed our hawsers at 4 : 30, and in one hour 
and a half were at the dock at the Nile Bridge, at 
Cairo. Thence we drove to the hotel, and rested and wrote 
up our journals till time for dinner. The costumes of the 
waiters at the "Angleterre" were exceedingly picturesque 
and attractive. The men would not average more than 
five feet six in height. They wore the fez and different 
colored silk gowns, and moved about with an ease and 
grace that could not have been surpassed. This is one 
of the tourist hotels, and is open only during the winter 
season. On account of our coming, they were kept run- 
ning two weeks beyond their usual time for closing. x\fter 
dinner we strolled out to see the city under the bright 
moon at first quarter, and to purchase some characteristic 
views of Egypt. 

The next morning, in good time, we were roused from 
our slumbers, for we had to visit the Museum of Anti- 
quities before noon. Among the objects of 

Cairo Museum. . . . . L , , . r 

chief interest there we saw the mummies 01 
the Pharaohs, the principal ones of these being that of 
Rameses II., the "new king over Egypt, which knew not 
Joseph," and that of the Pharaoh of the Exodus, recently 
discovered, whose remains have never been unveiled. 

In the Cairo Museum we saw also the skeletons of the 
sacred bulls, and mummies of crocodiles, dogs, cats, 
snakes, monkeys, frogs and gazelles. Some of the croco- 
dile mummies were as much as eighteen feet long. There, 



EGYPT'S CAPITAL AND HISTORY. 227 



in one case, I saw the mummied bodies of a little girl and 
her pet gazelle. What a sweet story of childhood it told ! 
Still another case was strikingly pathetic : in a casket, the 
royal nurse was sleeping, with her little baby lying at 
her feet ! 

I observed one significant fact about nearly all the 
cases : that each casket contained the scarab or beetle, 
which was their symbol of the creator and the resurrec- 
tion. Most of them contained jewelry, fish, date seed, and 
such other things as represented food, upon which the 
spirit might be refreshed on its periodic returns to look 
after the welfare of the body. I was greatly interested in 
the funeral boats, chairs and other furniture employed in 
connection with the burial of the dead. 

Here I saw the ancient Nilometer used by the Pharaohs 
thousands of years ago. The model of Pharaoh's chariot 
was there, the original having been taken to the Museum 
of Antiquities in Florence. The royal crowns, rings, 
necklaces, bracelets and other articles of jewelry were dis- 
played in the cabinets. I was astonished to see the fine 
character of gold chains and enamelling. 

It was a great surprise to see how perfectly the wood 
and the decorations painted on the wood were preserved. 
There were wooden statues carved out of a single piece, 
and likenesses, carved and painted, on the wooden 
mummy cases. There were the coins, the implements of 
warfare, from the graceful bow with dart and quiver to 
the almost formless stone arrows and knives found in the 
implement mines. 

I left the Museum with the impression that it was one 
of the best features of the cruise. While there is some- 
thing very gruesome about all of those mummies and 
funeral concomitants, it is a great blessing to have them, 
as they constitute the history, written in no other form, 



228 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



of that wonderful country and people of the hoary past. 
It was a rare privilege to see it all. 

Cairo is a city of six hundred thousand inhabitants, 
and is built upon the east bank of the great river, in 
30 6' north latitude. It is the most popu- 

Population. , . , . r . . , . 

lous city on the African continent, and sit- 
uated as it is, it is the favorite resort of tourists and 
health-seekers from all parts of the world. The hotels of 
Cairo could not be surpassed in any city. Those occupied 
by the cruisers were Shepheard's, Savoy, Continental, 
Eden Palace, Ghezireh Palace and DAmgleterre. 

Among 'the most interesting places visited in Cairo 
were the Monastery of the Howling Dervishes, the Ala- 
baster Mosque, the tombs of the Mamelukes and the Arab 
quarters. The Alabaster or Citadel Mosque is built en- 
tirely of Egyptian Alabaster, except the four huge square 
pillars that support the dome and the limestone columns 
that stand in the centre of the structure. It is the finest 
of all the Mohammedan mosques, and is fashioned after 
the St. Sophia, in Constantinople. From the court-yard 
we had our first sight of the great pyramid, towering as 
the monarch of the desert. From the southwest corner 
we had a magnificent view of the city and the surrounding 
country. Just below us was the Mosque of Sultan 
Hasan; to the north and west were the Windmill Flills 
and the green, fertile valley through which the Nile was 
majestically flowing. 

It was from that wall that Emin Bey, upon his horse, 
leaped to the ground, fifty feet below, rather than be 
slain with the one hundred and sixty of his family who 
had been invited to be present on that occasion, and were 
cruelly massacred. The print of the horseshoe on the 
renovated wall marks the point from which the fatal leap 
was taken. Within the same enclosure we visited the 



EGYPT'S CAPITAL AND HISTORY. 229 



tombs of the Mamelukes, where we saw the tomb of Emin 
Bey. Cairo is a beautiful City, whose main thoroughfares 
are broad and clean, whose stores and bazaars are second 
only to those of Damascus and Constantinople, and whose 
public gardens exhibit a wealth of the most luxuriant 
specimens of tropical flowers and ornamental foliage 
plants. 

The native name of Egypt was Kerne, represented in 
the hieroglyphic records by the character known as the 
crockodile tail. This character means black, 
both in the ancient Egyptian and Coptic lan- 
guages. Egypt was called the black country, not because 
of the color of the skin of the inhabitants, for that was 
red, but on account of the color of the soil, the Nile cover- 
ing the valley with a black mud, and thereby distinguish- 
ing the fertile fields from the surrounding deserts.' 

The Hebrew name for Egypt was Mizraim, preserved 
in the modern Arabic name for Cairo, El Masr. The 
cuneiform inscriptions in Syria and Assyria show that 
Masr was the name by which the ancient people of Asia 
called Egypt. The dual form of Mizraim was used to 
describe the whole country of Egypt as divided into two 
parts, Upper and Lower Egypt. This division was not 
simply geographical or political, but historical, as is abun- 
dantly manifested in the language, customs and worship 
of the two peoples. The immensely fertile soil, the ease 
of life under a sky always gay, and especially the protec- 
tion afforded by the geographical position of the country, 
were natural advantages, which made the Egyptians the 
first people on earth with a history. 

The Egyptians, like all other ancient peoples, assumed 
that before the human dynasties spoken of in the annals 
began, there had been a government by the gods. The 
name Egypt is derived from the term Aigyptos, employed 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



by Homer to designate the country and the river that 
watered it. The ancient inhabitants of Egypt were the 
children of a union between the aborigines and the de- 
scendants of Ham, the son of Noah. The Hamites emi- 
grated from the valley of the Euphrates, and crossing the 
Red Sea, pushed their way across the Arabian Desert to 
the Nile, where they settled and intermarried with the 
children of the soil. 

The Copts and Fellahin are the direct descendants of 
the ancient Egyptians. The Copts, for the most part, are 
the artisans, while the Fellahin are the farmers of the 
country. 

The prevailing features of the Egyptians are heavy eye- 
lashes, almond-shaped eyes, straight, smooth eyebrows, 
Racial wide mouth, thick lips, high cheek-bones, 

Features. retreating forehead and broad, flat nose. 
As a rule, the Egyptians are an industrious, patient, peace- 
loving race. 

The name Copt is a corruption of the Greek term 
Aigyptos. The modes of living among the Fellahin are 
of the simplest order. The other elements of the present 
population of Egypt are Bedouins, or wandering Arabs, 
Arabian dwellers in towns, Berbers, or Nubians, Soudan 
negroes, Turks, Armenians, Jews, Gypsies and Europeans. 
The total population of Egypt is about ten millions. 

The average house of the Egyptian is a very humble 
structure of mud and straw, usually thatched with millet 
or sorghum. The people live in settlements, villages and 
small towns all over the Nile Valley. 

There are what might be called three seasons : the win- 
ter, from November to April ; the summer, April to 
August; the autumn, August to November. 

The mean temperature of Cairo is as follows : For the 
winter, fifty-six degrees ; spring, seventy-eight ; summer, 



EGYPT'S CAPITAL AND HISTORY. 231 



eighty-three; and autumn, sixty-six. The 
minimum temperature is reached just before 
sunrise, and the maximum from two to three in the after- 
noon. Owing to the extreme dryness of the climate, the 
heat is not so oppressive in the summer-time as the figures 
would indicate. 

The Copts are what are known as Monophysite Chris- 
tians, because they regard the Messiah as possessing only 
a divine nature, believing that the human nature was 
absorbed in the divine. Almost all other elements of the 
population are attached to the Mohammedan religion. 

Some of the customs of the Mohammedans were found 
very interesting. When a child is seven days old the 
customs in family celebrates its birth by a festival in 

Egypt. the home, when a name is given to the 
young citizen. At the age of forty days the child is 
treated to a bath. If a boy, forty bowls of water are 
poured over the body of the infant ; if a girl, one bowl 
less. 

Girls are married at the age of twelve or thirteen years. 
The match is made by a third party, and the bridegroom- 
elect has to pay a certain price, which is the bridal portion. 
This completes the marriage contract. Before the nup- 
tials are consummated the bride is honored by a proces- 
sion to the bridal bath. The bride is gaily dressed, and 
mounted upon a camel in gala trappings. The camel is 
led by an attendant, preceded by a band of musicians, with 
hautbois and drums. These are followed by several of the 
married friends and relatives of the bride, walking in 
pairs, and after these follow a number of young girls. 
The bride is entirely concealed from view by the cash- 
mere shawl in which she is wrapped from head to foot. 
The procession is completed by another band of musicians, 
following in the rear. After this elaborate ceremony is 



232 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



over, the bride is conducted to the home of her husband. 
I saw one of those bridal processions on the way from 
Cairo to Alexandria. 

The burial customs of the Moslems are not less inter- 
esting than those connected with marriage. If death 
occurs in the morning, the interment is made before the 
setting of the sun ; but if in the evening, the burial does 
not take place till the next day. There are professional 
mourning women, who come to weep and wail with the 
family of the deceased on every occasion of death in the 
household. The funeral procession is led by half a dozen 
or more poor blind men, who chant the creed of the Mos- 
lems. The company first visit the mosque, where services 
for the dead are conducted. Then, after the body has 
been placed in front of the tomb of a saint, the procession 
is continued to the cemetery. The body is so placed in 
the tomb as that the face is turned toward Mecca. In the 
case of the rich, a saddle-horse and buffalo are led in the 
procession. The buffalo is slaughtered at the tomb, and 
its flesh is distributed among the poor. Another thing 
you notice, in the cemeteries, is that the men are buried 
on one side, while the other is reserved for the women. 

Egypt is divided into fourteen provinces, or "mudi- 
riyeh." The ruler of each province is called a "Mudir." 

The Mudir has associated with him in gov- 
v ' ernmen't a Vice-Mudir, a chief clerk, a tax 
gatherer, an accountant, a supreme judge, a police super- 
intendent, a civil engineer, and the chief physician of the 
province. 

Egypt is still nominally subject to Turkey, to which it 
pays an annual tribute of seven hundred and fifty thou- 
sand pounds, but since 1873 the Khedive has been an 
irresponsible sovereign. The power in Egypt that really 
controls is that which rules throughout the United King- 




J 



EGYPT'S CAPITAL AXD HISTORY. 233 



ciom. A knowledge of this fact makes the tourist feel 
quite at home in the Delta. 

During all of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries 
many efforts were systematically made to interpret the 
pictorial records, known as hieroglyphic writings, on the 
venerable monuments throughout the land of Egypt, but 
with meagre success. The real key for the deciphering 
of those mysterious writings was given in the wonderful 
Rosetta Stone. This stone was found in Fort St. Julien, 
at Rosetta, situated at the mouth of the Rosetta branch 
of the Nile, in the year 1799. This tablet I saw in the 
British Museum. It consists of a dark basalt rock, bear- 
ing three inscriptions : the first is in the ancient Egyptian, 
written in hieroglyphics ; the second is in the language 
of the people of a later time ; and the third is in Greek. 
All three inscriptions are a record of the same decree of 
Key to tne Egyptian priests, written two centuries 

Records. before Christ. The discovery of the Ro- 
setta Stone was of incalculable value, as it opened the 
library of the most ancient of human annals to the mind 
of the world. 

In the Scriptures, Egypt holds a place second only to 
that of Palestine. With Abraham, the mention of Egypt 
in the Bible begins, and is, as always, minutely accurate. 
The plenty in Egypt, at that time of famine, was the at- 
traction, for the overflow of the Nile has always blessed 
that land. The next mention of Egypt is in the history 
of Joseph. The Midianites brought "spicery, balm and 
myrrh," articles necessary for embalming. Joseph was 
sold to Potiphar, the Captain of the Guard, which had 
its headquarters in a famous fortress, known to the Ro- 
mans as the "White Castle/'' at Memphis. The very 
prison, where Joseph was confined, is copied upon an ex- 
isting mosaic, found in a Roman house at Preneste. By 
his marriage with Asenath. the daughter of a priest in 



234 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the great university temple of the sun, at On, he was 
incorporated into the priesthood, and therefore into the 
highest class of the land. The land of Goshen, where 
Israel in Joseph settled his father and his brethren, 
Egypt. was admirably adapted for the purpose. 
Goshen was famous for its fertility ; and being especially 
fitted for tillage, the Israelites there w T ere providentially 
led to change from a pastoral to an agricultural people. 

In direct contact with Egyptian pomp and splendor, 
at a period when the nation was at its height, the Israel 
ites lived unmolested for two hundred years. Then op- 
pression of the Israelites began. They were set to 
building, and beautifying, cities for Pharaoh. And the 
Egyptians made the lives of the Hebrews bitter with 
hard bondage, in mortar and in brick, and in all manner 
of service in the field. But "at evening time it shall be 
light." To the weary Israelites day was about to dawn; 
for of Amram and Jochebed, Moses, their future deliv- 
erer, was born. He was instructed in all the learning of 
the Egyptians. But his mother was his first teacher, and 
from her he received his religion. 

When Moses was eighty years old, Jehovah called him 
to be the deliverer, leader and lawgiver of his people Is- 
rael. He returned from Midian to Egypt, and entered 
upon his great mission. Pharaoh hardened his heart and 
refused to let Israel go. Then followed the ten great 
plagues, which were directed against the idolatry of 
Egypt, and finally issued in the Exodus. 
Thus the children of Israel, who numbered 
three-score and ten, when they came into Egypt, marched 
out 430 years later, under the leadership of Moses, about 
three million strong. The history of God's chosen people 
in the Delta of the Nile, is an unbroken record of Jeho- 
vah's marvelous protection and care. 



EGYPT'S CAPITAL AND HISTORY. 235 



Christianity in Egypt dates, according to tradition, 
from Mark, the evangelist, who is said to have founded 
Religion the Church at Alexandria. In the second 

of Christ. century, Alexandria was the seat of a theo- 
logical school, where the great Origen taught. This in- 
stitution flourished for two centuries, and trained some 
of the moist distinguished scholars of the Greek Church. 
The Christian religion seems never to have leavened the 
whole mass of Egypt's population. In the 7th century, 
the Arabs swept in triumph over Egypt, and, at the point 
of the sword forced the creed of Mohammed upon the 
nation. Yet a considerable number of the Egyptian Chris- 
tians remained faithful, and their descendants constitute 
the present Coptic Church. As, in ability and training, 
the Copts are superior to the Arabs, they hold most of 
the positions offered in the civil service of Egypt. In No- 
vember, 1854, the United Presbyterians of Amercia inau- 
gurated a work among the degenerate Christians at 
Alexandria and Cairo. From the inception of the Mis- 
sion, the purpose has not been resuscitation, but regenera- 
tion, among the Copts. 

On the morning of the 25th of April, we found that 
Naples 'had quarantined against Alexandria, on account 
Departure of °f the Bubonic Plague : so by noon the fol- 

cruise. lowing day, we were preparing to leave 
Cairo, for our good ship at Alexandria. On the way, 
we saw a marriage procession, in which the bride was 
carried in a decorated palanquin, borne between two 
camels, preceded and followed by the customary festive 
attendants. All the way, we saw the fine cattle, horses, 
camels and donkeys, for which Egpyt has an unrivaled 
reputation. On arrival at Alexandria, we left the cars 
and embarked, without a moment's delay. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



Voyage to Naples. 

THERE were in the Alexandrian harber three Aus- 
trian men-of-war. The boys merrily waved us bon 
voyage, as we lifted anchor and steamed out of port. We 
were glad that we had been permitted to visit that most 
ancient country, but were also thankful to turn our faces 
toward Europe again. It was a delight to meet all on 
board once more ; for the cruise had been divided and 
scattered, from the time of our landing at Beyrout. I 
was made happy by receiving another letter on board 
from the home folks, even if I had to pay two piastres 
as postage due. The pilgrims were all tired and hungry ; 
so after a good dinner, most of us made haste to retire 
for the night. 

On April the 27th, I rose early and spent an hour, be- 
fore breakfast, reading and writing. The most of the 
day was occupied in planning for the tour of the Con- 
tinent and the British Islands. My purpose was to travel 
about two months in Europe, embarking for New York 
the last of June. That day, there were a number of 
"meetings" on board, but I was too busily and profitably 
engaged to attend one of them. I sought bed soon after 
supper, as I needed rest, after the days of great fatigue 
in Egypt, and in view of the sight-seeing that lay before 
us, within the next few days. The Mediterranean was a 
little rough all night, and continued so throughout the day 
following. On account of the troubled sea, there were 
more people feeling "uncertain," than there had been 



VOYAGE TO NAPLES. 237 



since the second and third days out from New York. 
So many amusing things occurred during the day, that no 
one could complain of anything akin to monotony aboard. 
To see the old and young, the strong and the less vigor- 
ous, come to the table, and then, after looking pale, and 
growing paler for awhile, suddenly rise, without speaking 
to any one, and walk out of the dining-room, was indeed 
diverting, to a degree. 

It had been announced that about eleven o'clock that 
night we would pass through the famous straits of Mes- 
sina, where Scylla and Charybdis have always been the 
terror of the sailor, who dared to make the passage. The 
island of Sicily lay to the south on our left, while historic 
Scyiia and Italy was on our right to the north. On the 
Charybdis. Sicily side, we saw the large, well-lighted 
city, Messina, and on the point of the rock on our port 
side, was a brilliant lighthouse, that flashed its broad line 
of white light across the narrow channel. The strait is 
only a few hundred feet wide, with the steep hills on each 
shore rising abruptly, making the scene intensely inter- 
esting and imposing, in the bright moonlight. The 
steamer in her course through the strait described the 
letter "S," in sharp outline. We first sailed in very close 
to the Sicily rocks, and then almost as near to the "toe 
of the boot." After passing out, the signal lights were 
given to the stations on each side, for there was a great 
flash-light on the mainland, as well as on the island. I 
greatly enjoyed the fine frolics of the porpoises in the 
moonlight, as they raced at the prow of the s'hip. It was 
thrilling in the extreme, to stand in the bow of the ship, 
and watch the great leviathan carefully following her 
sinuous course, through that most inhospitable of the 
waters of the Great Sea. How real and vivid did the 
mental and moral picture of Scylla and Charybdis appear, 



238 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



while we were actually making the passage of the straits ! 
The eff ect is something like shooting the Lachine Rapids : 
You hold your breath as you are sailing through, but you 
breathe easy after the danger is past. It was something 
after midnight, when I hurried down out of the bow, to 
my cabin, and sought rest in the land of slumber. 

The next 'day dawned bright and clear, and we found, 
upon going on deck, that we were nearing the beautiful 
Bay of Naples. I passed the early morning hours in 
doing some reading and writing, that could not wait. 
About jten o'clock, we passed the fascinating little rock 
Enchanting isie. Island of Capri. The pass, there, is quite 
narrow, with the mainland on the north and Capri on 
the south. On each side, the shore is very precipitous. 
The mountains on the north afford a grand picture, while 
Capri is altogether unique, in its abruptness and rugged- 
ness. It is of limestone, and rises perpendicularly out of 
the water to a height of several hundred feet. There is 
a lighthouse on each end of the fairy island. The natural 
disintegration of the limestone has formed many remark- 
able caverns, the principal ones being known as the Blue, 
W'hite, and Green Grottoes. These are entered by row- 
boats, the entrance being so low, that the visitor can only 
make the passage by lying flat in the boat, and that, only 
when the sea is quiet. When the entrance has been 
gained, the coloring is indescribably lovely. The trip to 
Capri is one of the attractive excursions, of one day, from 
Naples. A good contingent from the cruise took advan- 
tage of the opportunity to visit the enchanting isle. The 
anchor-place at Naples is twenty miles from Capri, so 
we were a little more than one hour from our anchorage 
when we passed Capri. Soon after entering the bay, the 
great Vesuvius towered into view! The cone of this 
mountain of fire is a model of symmetry. The summit 



VOYAGE TO NAPLES. 



239 



rises 4,197 feet above the Bay. From the crater, an im- 
mense volume of smoke and steam is constantly rising. 
A great river of lava is seen, stretching down the valley 
between Vesuvius and Monte Somma. The color of the 
lava river is greyish-brown, while that a few hundred feet 
from the summit is white in appearance, from the sea. 
The doomed The last fierce outburst was in the year 

cities. 1900. The ill-fated cities of Pompeii and 
Herculaneum lay at the base of the mountain, -the one to 
the south, the other to the southwest. There is something 
awful in the sight of the smoking mountain, particularly 
in view of the fact that the two historic cities, above re- 
ferred to, were buried from forty to fifty feet under fhe 
ashes and lava, nineteen centuries ago. 

We were very fortunate in entering the harbor just in 
time to see the naval escort of thirteen battle ships, of 

Guest of President Loubet, of France. Just as the 
Honor President's ship loosed from her moorings, 
with Loubet and the King of Italy on board, the flagship 
fired the first gun of the royal salute. Then there were 
twenty-one guns from each of the thirteen men-of-war, 
firing in all directions. The sight and sound were vividly 
suggestive of a great naval battle, as the entire fleet was 
enveloped in smoke. By the time the smoke began to 
clear away, the response of the Italian fleet opened. The 
movements of the great sea-fighters, as they took their 
position in line, were orderly and majestic. It was a great 
experience, for I had never seen a gun fired from a man- 
of-war before. One of our battleships, the "Kentucky," 
lay anchored in the harbor. She was clad in a robe of 
white, and gaily decorated for the occasion, in honor of 
the other two fleets. She dipped her flag in recognition 
of the Americans, as her band played "America." 

Right near us was the "Erin," the splendid steam yacht 



CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



of Sir Thomas Lipton, with the "Shamrock" floating from 
her mainmast. The generous sportsman came aboard the 
Kiirfuerst, to exchange greetings with the Americans. 
As Naples had quarantined against Alexandria, we were 
held under quarantine regulations for several hours, Avhile 
we passed the official examination, and our soiled linen 
was taken to the quarantine station and fumigated. After 
all of this was over, we were allowed to land, by five 
o'clock. After dinner, some of us went over to see the 
city, and the illuminations. The decorations were very 
elaborate, on the occasion of the visit of the President of 
France. I have never seen so beautiful a bay as that of 
Naples. It has so many features to make it attractive. 
The general contour of the bay, the fine opening to the 
south, its lovely surface, reflecting the soft Italian sky, 
like a mirror of burnished silver, the delightful city of 
Neapolis, crowned with the Castle of Saint Elmo, and 
the awful, smoking furnace of Vesuvius — all combine to 
make an exquisite picture. At sunset, we were favored 
with another naval display, which we welcomed most 
heartily. At the lowering of the flags, used in the fes- 
tivities connected with Loubet's visit, the whole Italian 
fleet engaged in most vigorous cannonading. The rever- 
berations, from the placid bosom of the bay, to the steam- 
crowned summit of Vesuvius, were a perfect delight. But 
one of the very finest sights I ever witnessed, was the 
one I beheld about one hour after the sunset gun was 
fired: Vesuvius, with all his majesty, apparelled in a robe 
of April foliage, with valleys of lava marking the folds 
of his garments, and crowned with a glorious cap of white 
cloud, was directly east of us; the setting sun spread a 
subdued light over the waters and land, east of Saint 
Elmo, and shed a mellow, purplish afterglow upon the 
mountains, behind which he was sinking to rest. It was 



VOYAGE TO NAPLES. 



241 



then that a surprise came. The moon was at the full. 
Just after the departure of 'the king of the day, the queen 
of the night rose clear, to the south of Mount Vesuvius, 
and flooded the Bay with her silvery light. The picture 
was complete. The sweet azure sky, influenced by both 
the gold and silver lights, made possible an effect that 
could hardly be surpassed, and never described. The 
memory of that view will linger with me through life. 

We had our first glimpse of Italian life under most fav- 
orable auspices. It was a gala season, and the illumina- 

inGaia tions at the Palazzo Reale and the Munici- 

Attire pi W ere simply gorgeous. All along the 
principal thoroughfares, the decorations were profuse, and 
the pyrotechnic display was lavish. There "were many 
thousands of people, of all ages and ranks, streaming in 
all directions. The street cars and cabs were doing a 
thriving business. After a long, entertaining tramp of 
three hours, Mr. Coulter and I returned to the ship for 
a good night's rest. The next day dawned most auspi- 
ciously, and the Bay of Naples was as beautiful, under 
the new conditions, as it had been on the previous after- 
noon and evening. As soon as breakfast was over, the 
Rome division were taken ashore, to find carriages for 
the morning's drive through Naples. The forenoon was 
spent in visiting the Aquarium and the Museum. The 
chief attraction at the Aquarium was the octopus. It 
was the privilege of a lifetime. I have been informed that 
those are the only specimens to be seen in any aquarium 
in the world. I have yet to see another creature quite so 
horrible and forbidding, in appearance, as that strange 
pirate of the lower strata of the tropical seas. The elec- 
tric eel was there to "shock" every one, who was bold 
enough to give him a trial. I was rash enough to take 
him up in my hands, and I can imagine that I still feel 



242 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the vigorous, electric force of this natural galvanic bat- 
tery. There were the finest specimens of the sea-horse, 
the crab, the lobster, and the entire family of shell fish. 
From the most highly organized, to the lowest forms, of 
sea-animal life — all were there to be seen. It was a great 
opportunity, for there is no other aquarium that will com- 
pare with that of Naples. 

From the Aquarium, we drove to the great Museum. 
Among the objects of chief interest there, were the re- 
sults of the discoveries and excavations at Pompeii and 
Herculaneum. The former city was destroyed in the year 
79, A. D., by being buried forty feet deep under ashes, 
pumice stone, and hot water, from the crat'er of Monte 
Somma ; the latter was overwhelmed by a great volume of 
black lava from Monte Vesuvio. The Museum contains 
many hundreds of specimens of statuary, mural decora- 
tions, cooking utensils, other industrial implements, armor, 
and some fine examples of jewelry of that ancient period. 
The wooden articles were, in some instances, well pre- 
served. In the collections, there were very many of their 
coins. The bronze specimens could be located by the 
peculiar effects of the eruptions from the two volcanoes. 
Those of Pompeii showed a greenish- white corrosion; 
those from Herculaneum were much darker, almost black, 
from the action of the hot sulphur, from Vesuvius. Many 
subjects of the statuary and paintings, in the other halls 
and galleries, were splendidly conceived and executed. 1 
thought the tapestry and ivory carvings were among the 
most interesting of the great exhibit. There were many 
artists there, copying the best works ; and there, too, was 
a gallery for the display and sale of such copies. My 
only regret was that the time was so limited for seeing so 
much. At the door, we took carriages for the Porta 
Marina, where we took the tender for the Kurfuerst. 



VOYAGE TO NAPLES. 



243 



After lunch, we made ready for our trip to the Eternal 
City. Our contingent required two sections, of sixteen 
"carros" each. We were astonished at, and charmed with, 
the wonderful fertility of the soil of southern Italy, and 
the splendid system of cultivation. Practically every 
square yard of available soil is planted and cultivated, 
and the yield is almost fabulous. The potatoes, tomatoes, 
strawberries, cabbages, beans, flax, clover, orchards and 
vineyards, were spread out, for many unbroken leagues. 
The vines trellissed upon the green trees, stretching from 
one to another, over thousands of acres of plain, valley, 
and mountain side, presented to me a new feature of 
grape-culture. Then the blue Apennine Mountains, under 
the afternoon and evening sky, were a dream of grandeur. 
The highest of the range were gowned in a dazzling 
fabric of snow. So, all the afternoon, we were enter- 
tained and enchanted by an uninterrupted panorama of 
beauty, till the sun began to sink, and the shadows fell 
over the land, whose glories he had made visible during 
the day. Then again, we were made happy by the rising 
of the moon, as she entered upon her nocturnal vigil. She 
was in her glory, and the sky wa's ideal. I would not be 
vain enough to attempt to paint the scene, as the silver 
planet rose and looked from behind the mountains, over 
which we had been climbing. We were a tired company, 
and after our "Kurfuerst lunch," without a motion, we 
all took a nap, till we drew near to the city of Rome. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 



Rome. 

/^UR first introduction to Rome's ancient greatness was 
a glimpse of the grey ruins of the aqueduct and city 
wall. On arrival at Rome we were promptly directed to 
the carriage that was ready to take us to the Marini 
Hotel. My first impression of Rome was a most favor- 
able one. I reached my room a little before midnight. I 
was assigned to a room all to myself, and was comfort- 
ably quartered. 

The next day was Sabbath, May the first. After early 
sabbath in breakfast, I went with Mr. Coulter and his 
Rome daughter to St. Peter's. On the way, we 
walked without a guide. Our first view of the "Yellow 
Tiber" was from the "Umberto Ponte," as w r e crossed 
toward the new Palace of Justice. Thence we walked 
down the right bank of the Tiber, passing the Mausoleum 
of Hadrian, or Castello San Angelo, till we entered the 
Via Nuova, which led us up to the largest church in the 
world. I was wonder-struck as I approached the Colon- 
nade, which serves as an introduction to the great San 
Pietro. There are three rows of columns, built on cir- 
cular lines, on each side of the approach — each leading to 
St. Peter's — the one on the right, and the other on the 
left. In the centre of the circle stands one of the great 
obelisks, from Heliopolis, Egypt. This, like all its com- 
panions, is a monolithic shaft. On each side of the obe- 
lisk, there is a fountain, forty-six feet in height. Thence 
we ascended the long flight of stone steps, leading up to 
the doors of the Mecca of the Roman Catholic world. We 



ROME. 



245 



were in time for the celebration of high mass, by the 
College of Cardinals. There was an elaborateness of de- 
tail, in the functions of the celebrants, that we had never 
before witnessed. After the service, we spent some time 
in walking around in the immense structure, with its seven 
altars. The vastness of the dome fairly staggers you. 
Papal The Tombs of the Popes, down to the late 

Tombs. L eo XIII., are very full of interest to the 
student of history. To the devout Catholic, the Tomb of 
St. Peter is a most holy place. There the lamps never 
go out, and there the marble statue of Sextus IV. ever 
kneels before the shrine of St. Peter. There too, is the 
bronze statue of St. Peter, the toes of whose right foot 
have been worn away by the kisses of the faithful. That 
part of the foot has been renewed, and has worn away a 
second time, till a second renewal will soon become a 
necessity. This bears eloquent testimony to the power of 
a religious sentiment. It will make men do what the com- 
bined armies of the world could never compel them to do. 

To me the most wonderful attractions, about St. Peter's, 
The Great were the Mosaics, that are the admiration of 
Mosaics every visitor. The coloring, and the me- 
chanical fitting of the tiny bits of marble, in those mas- 
terpieces, are so perfectly done, that the observer will 
not infrequently fail to discover that the work has not 
been done with brush or pencil. Among the best of 
these pictures, are, the "Transfiguration," the "Baptism 
of Jesus," the "Death of Ananias and Sapphira," and the 
"Last Communion of St. Jerome." In the Baptism of 
Jesus, the shading is so perfect that the feet of the Master 
show distinctly, under the water, as He stands to receive 
baptism at the hands of the faithful forerunner. By 
twelve o'clock, we were on our way back to the Marini. 

As I stood on the Ponte San Angelo and looked down 



246 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



at the swift current, I thought the descriptive term, 
"tawny," as applied to the Tiber, exceedingly appropriate. 
The color is always yellowish, on account of the light soil 
that is mingled with the waters, as they wash the south- 
western slopes of the Apennines. After lunch, I went out 
to find the Presbyterian church, where Dr. 

Missions. „ , , , 

Gray was to deliver a lecture on St. Paul 
in Rome." That was a masterful discourse, and proved 
very profitable to all who heard it. From there, we went 
to the Methodist Episcopal church, where a congress of 
all the Sabbath-schools, in Rome, was to be held. The 
entire service was in the Italian tongue, which is liquid 
and musical. It is inspiring to observe that the Sabbath- 
school is accomplishing the same results for the peoples 
who speak other languages, that it is for the millions in 
the home-land. Leaving this church, we walked down 
"Via XX. Setembre," to the Quirinal Palace Gardens. 
In this beautiful park, we sat and rested, enjoying the 
splendid grounds, the fine equestrian statue in bronze, and 
the people of the city, as they came and went. I was 
charmed with the little Italian children that I saw there. 
The most attractive babies and white-aproned nurses, that 
I saw outside of America, were in the lovely city of Rome. 
In the centre of the Piazza del Quirinale, stands a foun- 
tain with an antique basin. There I was delighted with 
the colossal statues of the Horse Tamers, one of which 
is Alexander taming Bucephalus. These splendid tri- 
umphs in marble were executed by Phidias and Praxiteles, 
respectively. 

Thence we turned our steps toward the hotel, and un- 
expectedly stumbled upon the most beautiful of all the 
200 fountains of the city. Any one, who has seen Rome, 
could readily tell what fountain I had reference to. Trevi 
Fountain lies in a natural basin, and is supplied by a large 



ROME. 



247 



aqueduct. It has the roar of a cataract, as the water 
rushes from the many orifices, leaping from one rock ter- 
race to another, till it rests in the semi-circular basin at 
your feet. The limestone is artistically carved, so as to 
represent the natural rock. So well has the artist done 
his work, that it requires more than a passing glance to 
detect that it is artificial. The chiseling is exquisite. 
There are fig trees, lilies, ivy, rhododendra and grapes, 
still to be seen in this materpiece. Out of the wall from 
which the water is gushing, Neptune is seen riding in his 
shell-car, drawn by two magnificent sea-horses, driven by 
as many tritons. Above the fountain stand four fine 
statues, representing the four seasons of the year. Under 
the rocks, sheltered from the rushing tide, were the most 
bewitching, irresisitible, maiden hair ferns, some of which 
I plucked to send home, in a letter to be written that 
night. The sweet picture of the Trevi Fountain will re- 
main with me, for a long time to come. There is a tradi- 
tion that if the visitor returns to this fountain, the night 
before departing from the city, and throws a coin into 
the cascade, he will be sure to return to Rome some day. 
I did not cast the coin, but I did visit Trevi Fountain be- 
fore breakfast, the morning we left for Naples. I re- 
turned to my hotel in time for supper, after which I en- 
joyed writing a long letter home. 

Monday we were up at the call of the porter for early 
breakfast, to be ready for the all-day drive and sight-see- 
ing. At the appointed hour, we started for the Pincian 
Gardens. There we enjoyed the most -delightful views 
to be had from the east side of the Tiber. The drive 
The water through the garden was delicious. There 
clock. we found a water clock, the first one, in 
operation, I had ever seen. As its name signifies, this 
clock is run by water-power, the mechanism being simple 
and perfect. This clock never needs winding. Upon the 



248 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 

pond underneath, was a mother swan, with her five babies, 
clad in down. It was a sweet picture that they gave us, 
as we paused for a few moments, while the kodak fiends 
got in some of their work. The finest prospect is had 
from the terrace overlooking the Piazza del Popolo. From 
there we saw St. Peter's, the Vatican, the Pantheon, the 
Capitol and the Palazzo Regio. On leaving the Collis 
Hortorum, we drove to Sebasti & Reali's bank, where we 
received letters from home. After we had finished read- 
ing our letters, we were driven to the Museum of Statu- 
ary, behind St. Peter's. There we had the privilege of 
seeing some of the masterpieces of the sculptor's art. 

The sculptor's Among the finest were Apollo Belvedere, 
Model. anc i the Torso Belvedere Hercules, which 
has always been the model for the masculine form in 
sculpture. This famous Torso was the favorite study of 
Michael Angelo. 

There, too, are the original statues of Venus and Min- 
erva, models of perfection in feminine beauty. The Glad- 
iator in the act of "scraping" his limbs, after the contest, 
the busts of Julius and Augustus Caesar, the boxers, and 
II Nil, or Father Nile, are classics in the realm of art. 
In the Hall of Animals, there were some splendid tri- 
umphs, among which was "Lupa et Gemini" or "The 
Wolf and the Twins." All too soon, we were called from 
this feast to another. 

We went next to the Vatican Museum. Within the 
gateway were stationed the Swiss Guards of the Pope, 
whose fantastic uniform was designed by Michael An- 
gelo. Our guide facetiously remarked that Michael An- 
gelo was a fine sculptor and painter, but a very poor 
tailor ! We ascended the Scala Regia, leading up to the 

where Popes Sistine Chapel, where the Popes are elected 
are Made. by the College of Cardinals. The end of 



ROME. 



249 



this Chapel, opposite the altar, is entirely covered by the 
creations of Angelo, "The Last Judgment." Seven 
years of the great artist's life were given to this picture. 
It was unveiled on Christmas Day. The walls and ceil- 
ing of this building are occupied by the wonderful works 
of the same genius. Among those that would first at- 
tract you is the creation of Eve, where Adam sleeps, and 
wakes to find Eve, his help-meet, from God's gracious 

Raphael's hand. From there, we went into the hall, 
Triumphs, where we saw the three greatest works of 
Raphael : "The Transfiguration," "The Madonna," and 
"The Last Communion of St. Jerome." We left the Vati- 
can, regretting that we could not spend as many weeks as 
we had hours, at both Museums. Thence we were driven 
across the Tiber to the hotels, Where we were refreshed 
with a delightful lunch. After lunch we drove to the 
"Forum of Trajan," the "Great Forum of Rome," the 
"Colosseum," the "Pantheon,' 7 and "St. Peter's." At the 
Great Forum, we saw the Rostrum, from which the silver- 
tongued prince of orators, Cicero, hurled his invincible 

where the power against Cataline and his f ellow con- 
PeopieMeet. spirato'rs. In that very place, the head of 
the orator was afterwards hung, and the most shameless 
abuse was heaped upon the memory of the great man, by 
a wicked and depraved empress. There we saw the spot 
where Caesar was stabbed by Brutus, while exclaiming, 
"Et Tu Brute," and covering his head with his toga, that 
he might not look upon the murderous deed! In the 
same place, the famous speech of Marcus Antonius was 
delivered, at Caesar's funeral. On that historic plot of 
ground were the Temple of Jupiter, the Temple of Vesta, 
the Temple of Julius Caesar, the Tomb of Romulus, and 
the Great Rostrum. One would need months in which 
to study these classic ruins, buried under the debris of 



250 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



centuries. The work of systematic excavation is going 
on to-day. When we were there, the excavating force 
were unearthing human skeletons, in fifty different places. 
In niches in the walls, we saw many of these skeletons 
intact. From the Forum, we could see the old Senate 
Chamber, the Arch of Titus, and the Palace of the 
Caesars. 

On the way to the Colosseum, we passed through the 
Arch of Titus. To the south of the Colosseum, we were 
taken under the Arch of Constantine the Great. We 
found the Colosseum the greatest of all the ruins — in- 
deed, it is the greatest in the world. It was built in the 
year 80, A. D., by Vespasian, and was capable of seating 
100,000 people. There the most brutal sports were wit- 
nessed ; and there many hundreds of Christians lost their 
lives. "Christianos ad Leones," was the bloodthirsty cry 
They Kept the °f tne persecutors of the followers of Christ, 
Faith. as the Martyr Christians, men and women, 
were hurried from the cells, to feed the hungry lions ! 
Here we were shown the dens where the wild beasts were 
kept for three days without food, before the contest ; and 
the dungeons, from which the Christians were brought, 
that they mig'ht die for their faith. In those contests, 
there were three classes of people, in the arena with the 
ferocious animals : The gladiators, the condemned male- 
factors, and the Christians. The gladiators, upon enter- 
ing the arena, faced the emperor with these words, "We, 
w'ho are about to die, salute thee !" This marvelous pile, 
we left for the Pantheon, one of the oldest, and the best 
preserved of all the ancient structures of Rome. 

The Pantheon was built by Marcus Agrippa, in the year 
27, B. C. It was dedicated to all the gods, hence the 
name "Pantheon." The great portico is supported by 
twenty-four grey and red granite columns, three rows 



ROME. 



deep, with eight in a row. The double bronze doors re- 
quire six men to open and shut them. The interior is 
142 feet in diameter, and 142 in height. The roof is dome- 
shaped, and of stone, with a circular opening at the apex 
of the cone, 27 feet in diameter. This opening is the only 
source from which the building receives light. The Pan- 
theon is now used as a church. The tombs of Victor 
Emmanuel, the First, and the late King Humbert, are on 
the right. On the left, is the tomb of Raphael. The Pan- 
theon is destined to be the Westminster Abbey of Italy. 
In an adjoining convent, Galileo was tried on June 22, 
1633, for insisting that the earth moved around the sun. 

From the Pantheon, we drove to St. Peter's and spent 
the rest of the day in studying the architecture, and the 
principal works of art found in the great sanctuary. One 
great work in marble, "Vanity and Modesty," capivated 
everyone. The figures were chiseled from Pentelic 
marble. So perfectly was the ideal of the sculptor real- 
ized, that tradition informs us of a young Italian's com- 
mitting suicide, on account of having fallen in love with 
the lifelike statue of Modesty. Behind the High Altar 
is the bronze chair of St. Peter, borne up by Augustine, 
Ambrose, Chrysostom and Athanasius. It was made from 
the bronze fastenings taken from the Colosseum. It was 
constructed by Bernini, at a cost of $120,000. Near the 
central door is a porphyry slab, upon which the emperors 
were crowned. The floor is of variegated marble. The 
length of St. Peter's is 615 feet, height of the dome to 

The world's ^e t0 P °^ t: ^ e cross > on the Canopy of the 
Great St. Peter's Tomb, is 448 feet, height of the 

cathedral. n , ave) f eet> w idth of nave, 435 feet, and 
width of aisles, 33 feet. The frieze around the Cupola 
bears the following inscription in mosaic : "Tu es Petrus, 
et super hanc petram aedificabo ecclesiam meam, et tibi 



252 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



dabo claves regni caelorum." Under the dome is the 
venerable 'head and face of St. Peter, also done in mosaic. 
Owing to the immense proportions of St. Peter's, the ob- 
jects within the area lose much of their effect, suffering 
as they do from contrast. The dome of St. Peter's has 
always been considered one of the sublimest efforts of 
architecture. "The Cupola is glorious. Viewed in its de- 
sign, in its altitude, in its decorations, as a whole, or in 
part, it enchants the eye, it satisfies the taste, it expands 
the soul." 

The interior of the church is imposing, less so from the 
grand, colossal dimensions, than from the harmony and 
proportion of the lines. 

Tired out with the hard day's work, we went to our 
hotels, passing, on the way, the Houses of Parliament, 
and the Spiral Column of Marcus Aurelius, surmounted 
by a bronze statue of St. Paul. This column stands in 
the Colonna Piazza, the centre of modern Rome. After 
dinner, we went out to do a little shopping,, at Merola's 
and other places. 

Rome is a most beautiful city. It is a model of cleanli- 
ness, and is the best watered city in the world. There 
was a great satisfaction in being at liberty to drink of 
the fountains all over the city, knowing that the waters 
were pure and wholesome. When the "Mistress of the 
World" was in her prime, it required fourteen aqueducts 
to supply the city with water. Many of those aqueducts 
brought the water from long distances — one, the Anio 
Novus, conveying the water 62 miles, 48 miles of which 
were underground. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



Rome. 

'npUESDAY was optional day, and we planned our 
* own independent itinerary. First, we went to the 
bank, on Piazza di Spagna, for our mail, and were richly 
rewarded by more letters from home. Thence we went 
shopping at an art store; and at nine o'clock, to Cook's 
Tourist Office, to arrange for our tickets, as far as Lon- 
don. This done, we hired a carriage and guide, and were 
off for a fine morning's work. We drove first to the 
Capitoline Museum, to see the "Dying Gladiator," the 
"Marble Faun," and the "Dying Gaul." Many other 
noted works, we saw there, but these three were the ob- 
jects of chief interest. 

At the head of the stone steps, leading to the Piazza, 
were the statues of Castor and Pollux. There, too, is 
the first mile-stone of the old Appian Way. On this spot 
the Temple of Jupitor Capitolinus stood, and in the gar- 
den is the famous Tarpeian Rock, from which criminals 
were hurled to death. 

On your left, as you ascend, is the wolf -kennel, in the 
The wolf traditional place where Romulus and Remus 

Kennei. were nourished by the wolf. These wolves 
are kept at the expense of the city, just as the bears are 
in the Grotto at Bern, Switzerland. 

From the Capitoline Hill, we drove toward the Tiberine 
Island, passing the "hired house" of the Apostle Paul. 
On the island, in the mid-Tiber, there are the ruins of the 
Temple of yEsculapius. At present, the southern point 
is occupied by the city morgue. There are the ruins of 



254 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the old Bridge, built by Augustus Caesar. The island is 
connected with the mainland, by bridges, on each side. 

Near the east bank of the river, we saw the well-pre- 
served "Temple of Vesta/' the "Temple of Fortune," and 
the house of Rienzi, the last of the Tribunes. 

Thence we drove to St. Paul's Gate, passing the ancient 
quay of Rome. Just outside the city wall we halted at 
the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, built of stone brought from 
Egypt, to commemorate the victories he had won on 
African soil. We drove along the left bank of the Tiber, 

_ u _ . . till we came to St. Paul's Church. There 

The Tombs of 

Paul and the bodies of Paul and Timothy were buried, 

Timothy. tradition tells us? that n€ar S t p au l' Sj 

at the Church of the "Three Fountains," the Chief 
Apostle was beheaded. 

Here we were shown the miraculous crucifix, in the 
Chapel of St. Bridget. She was once praying before this 
shrine, when, it is said, Christ descended from the cross, 
and embraced her ! Among the many objects of great in- 
terest, were the Alabaster Pillars, supporting the Canopy 
over the Tomb of St. Paul. These were imported from 
Egypt. This canopy is in part covered with pure gold. 
Mosaics of The mosaics of the Popes are well worth 
Popes. seeing. The pictures of all the chief Pre- 
lates, from St. Peter to Leo the XIII., are there. There 
is also a niche for the portrait of the present Pope, Pius 
X. This mosaic is in process of execution at the present 
time. 

From St. Paul's, we drove across the Campagna di 
Roma, to the Catacombs of St. Calixtus. 

The Catacombs. Wg paid the entrance f eCj an d were CQn _ 

ducted, by a genial friar, down into the underground 
necropolis. There are many sections of the Catacombs — 
in all, hundreds of miles of tunneling, through the Tufa 
rock, having been explored under the Campagna. 



ROME. 



255 



Formerly the Popes' remains were interred in those Cata- 
combs ; but they have all been removed to St. Peter's. 
Hundreds of thousands of bodies were buried there, but 
most of them have been removed. Occasionally, you will 
see a skeleton, or a mummy. In those Catacombs, the 
Christians took refuge, in times of persecution — often 
meeting there for the worship of Christ, together, in 
safety. 

Thence we drove to the old Appian Way, leading from 
TheAppian the Appian Gate of Rome to the ancient 

way. city f Capua. This was the most import- 
ant of the Roman roads, when Rome controlled the world. 
The "Via Appia" was built by Appius Claudius, from 
whom it took its name. On the Appian Way is the 
Church of "Domine, Quo Vadis." There we saw a part 
of the pavement of the famous old Road. It composes a 
part of the floor of the church. On this spot, tradition 
says, St. Peter met with the Lord, whose footprints are 
here shown, and propounded the question, "Master, 
whither goest Thou?" This tradition gave the church 
the name by which it is still known. 

Farther along the Appian Way, under a tall cypress, 
we saw the Tomb of Scipio Africanus. Still farther, and 
we came to the celebrated baths of Caracalla Antoninus. 
Sixteen hundred persons could bathe at once in that mar- 
velous structure. There were cold, tepid, and hot baths, 
as in modern bath houses. 

We drove through the Appian Gate, into the city, pass- 
ing over the "Circus Maxentius," where the races and 
games used to take place, while the emperor sat on the 
balcony of his palace, and witnessed the progress of the 
entertainments. Thence we crossed the Tiber by the 
bridge nearest the south wall, driving to the Janiculum 
Hill, where the Temple of Janus once stood. On the 



256 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



temple site, stands the fine equestrian statue of Garibaldi. 
There were Caesar's famous gardens. From there, we 
enjoyed a superb view of the city and the Campagna di 
Roma, lying about it. The grounds are beautifully kept, 
and about the statue, the elite gather in their carriages, 
by appointment, in the summer afternoons, to visit with 
one another, instead of calling at the residences in the city. 

Stretching in the distance, from northwest to south- 
east, are the Apennine Mountains, forming a noble back- 
ground for the great City of Romulus. A little way 
down from the summit of Moras Janiculus, is the lovely 
Pauline Fountain, as it bursts from an underground aque- 
duct, supplied by a spring more than thirty miles distant. 
It breaks into roaring cascades, and falls into a great 
reservoir, from which it is conveyed to the turbines, below, 
where it furnishes the power for the corn mills, foundries, 
and other kinds of machinery. Thence it is carried to 
supply several of the city fountains, before it falls into 
the Tiber, and begins its course to the sea. 

A little further down, we passed the traditional site 
Martyrdom of where Peter was crucified, with his head 

Peter. downward. The beautiful Church of "St. 
Peter's on the Mountain" is built on the exact site. I 
shall always remember the lovely serpentine drive up that 
hill. The grade was excellent, and the trees on each side 
of the road, with the rustic rock wall, lent greatly to the 
attractiveness of the panorama of delight. We recrossed 
the river on St. Bartholomew's Bridge, and were soon at 
the Marini — in time for late lunch. 

After lunch, we did some shopping, and took the tram 
for the Basilica of San Giovani Laterano. Our chief 
The Santa reason for visiting this great church, was, 
Scaia. that in one of the chapels was the "Santa 



ROME. 



257 



Seala," or Pilate's Stair-case. The Santa Scala consists 
of twenty-eight marble steps. The stair-case was brought 
by the Empress, St. Helen, from the palace of Pilate, in 
Jerusalem, in the year 326, A. D. The tradition is that 
on these very steps, Jesus began the Via Crucis. Many 
hundreds of devotees daily ascend upon their knees, as an 
act of worship. The old marble steps were worn so nearly 
through, that it long ago became necessary to cover them 
with wood, for their protection. 

From St. John Lateran, we went to San Pietro in Vin- 
coli, not far from the Colosseum. There we saw one of 
Angejo's the two greatest products of the skill of 
Greatest work. Michael Angelo. "Moses" sits in a great 
marble chair, holding, in his right hand, the two tables 
of the law. It is a great triumph of the sculptor's art. 
The other great statue referred to, is "David," which we 
saw in the Tribune of David, in Florence. There young 
David stands, with his sling in his right hand, and a 
smooth stone in his left. Which was the finer, I was un- 
able to say. The one was perfect of the aged lawgiver, 
and the other was as perfect of the youthful deliverer, of 
the Children of Israel. 

In this church, in a bronze chest behind the main altar, 
I saw the Jerusalem and Rome, chains with which Peter 
was bound. These were miraculously joined together, so 
the devout monk, Fra Rafael, told me! Fra Rafael was 
very kind and courteous to me, in unlocking the door and 
the chest, that I might see the chains. 

We returned past the Colosseum, and through the ar- 
cade, to our hotel, for dinner. After a brief outing, visit- 
ing the beautiful stores, I returned to my room, wrote a 
letter, and retired for the night. 

I was deeply impressed, as well as delighted, with the 
city of Rome. When it was founded, no one knows, for 



258 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



its foundation is lost in a labyrinth of mythology. Hence 
it is called the "Eternal City." It has a population of 
500,000, and is rapidly growing. Its inhabitants once 
numbered more than a million. Rome was built upon 
seven hills : The Capitoline, Palatine, Esquiline, Viminal, 
Aventine, Quirinal, and Caelian. Rome is a walled city. 
The walls are constructed of brick and stone, and are 
fifty feet in height. On the left bank, the wall measures 
ten miles, that on the right bank, nearly four, making in 
all nearly fourteen miles. There are twelve gates in the 
walls of modern Rome. 

Rome has a classic atmosphere, which can be equalled 
by only one other city in the world. It has been more 
closely interwoven with the civilization of the human race, 
than any other city. In some single point, other cities 
may excel it. It has no Golgotha, and it has no Acropolis ; 
but all the threads of ancient history converge in Rome, 
and from Rome, all the threads of modern history diverge. 

The City on the Tiber has, from the first, been insepar- 
ably identified with the Christian Church. The consid- 
eration of the relation of Christianity to the Roman Em- 
pire, would embrace the following epochs : When Chris- 
Reiigionsin tianity was brought into conflict with the 

Rome. old religion of the Romans, and was grad- 
ually converting the Roman world to the faith; that 
period during which Christianity became the state and of- 
ficial religion of the empire, from the time of Constantine, 
extending over five hundred years ; and that long period, 
known as the Middle or Dark Ages. 

The religion of the ancient Romans originated in the 
worship, by each family, of its own household, and deities, 
in whom the souls of their ancestors were supposed to be 
enshrined. The principal household divinity was the god- 
dess Vesta ; who was regarded as defending the hearth- 



ROME. 



259 



stone; so that not only were there several temples erected 
in different parts of the city for her worship, but each 
family had its peculiar shrine, at which divine honors 
were paid to her. 

The name of the Apostle Paul is intimately connected 
with the history of Christianity in Rome. The Epistle to 
the Romans gives evidence that he was familiar with the 
condition of the Church at that place. This Church had 
doubtless been founded, at an early date, by some of the 
converts, on the day of Pentecost, styled in the Acts of 
the Apostles as "Strangers of Rome." For two whole 
years, Paul remained in Rome, under a Roman guard, in 
his own "hired house." During his residence in that city, 
no less than six of the Epistles, that bear his name, were 
written : Galatians, Ephesians, Philippians, Colossians, 
Second Timothy, and Philemon. 

The Romans did not persecute the early Christians for 
their faith in Christ. The cruel sufferings, which they en- 
dured at Rome under Nero, were due to an effort, on the 
part of that wicked tyrant, to render the Jews odious, by 
making one of the Jewish sects responsible for the burn- 
ing of the city, of which crime Nero, alone, was guilty. 

There are no reliable records of the exact length of 
Paul's life. We know that during this persecution, about 
the year 66, A. D., Paul suffered martyrdom, by being be- 
headed at the famous "Three Fountains," outside the 
city walls. We were shown this place, and also the hired 
house, where the great Apostle dwelt. 

In taking leave of Rome, I was led to consider our 
chief indebtedness to the ancient peoples of the world : To 
the Egyptians and Phoenicians, we are indebted for the 
science, and art, of letters ; to the Arabians, for the char- 
acters employed in our ordinary arithmetical calculations ; 
the Greeks gave us the highest forms of culture and art ; 



260 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the Romans brought jurisprudence, and the principles of 
government to a high state of perfection ; and to the He- 
brews, the chosen people of God, we owe a debt of 
everlasting gratitude, for the pure and holy religion of 
Jehovah ; for unto the Jew were committed the oracles 
of God. And the Messiah, whom we worship, was born 
of that honored, royal race. 



CHAPTER XXX. 



Pompeii. 

ARLY on the morning of May the fourth, we rose 

' and completed our preparations for the return to 
Naples. About nine o'clock, we left Rome, on the second 
section of cars, for the beautiful city of Naples. 

When you have enjoyed a visit to that favored place, 
you do not wonder 'that the Romans had in constant use 
this proverb: "See Naples and die!" For it is not only 
the metropolis, but the most attractive city of the great 
country of Italy. To the ancient Italians, a visit to the 
new city by the sea was the very goal of their ambition. 

From Rome to Naples, we enjoyed another delightful 
ride. The mountains, fields and gardens, revealed to us 
beauties that they had withheld from us as we journeyed 
to Rome, under the lights and shadows of the after part 
of the day. I could not decide which I enjoyed the more, 
as the two trips were counterparts, and together made a 
complete whole. It was a great privilege to see that won- 
derful, historic country in the sweet springtime, when the 
infinite variety in the green foliage imparts such an in- 
describable charm to the landscape. The flax, with its 
lithe form, draped in emerald, and bonneted with azure, 
I shall always remember with pleasure. The thatched 
houses and quaint, fantastic costumes of the peasantry in- 
terested me very much. We had an excellent lunch on 
the way, arriving at Naples at two-thirty in the afternoon. 

From Naples, we went to Pompeii, fifteen miles dis- 
tant, without a change of cars. There we saw the most 
The Hushed city, remarkable sights in the excavations that 
have been made, and are still in progress. This ancient, 



262 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



rich and profligate city numbered more than 400,000. In 
its life, the entire civilization of the Romans was re- 
flected, for Pompeii was the legitimate product of the 
age. Within its walls, it held specimens of every gift 
which luxury and power could afford. In it, a perfect 
model of the great Roman Empire was seen. 

On the afternoon of the twenty-third of November, 79, 
A. D., Pompeii was destroyed by an outburst of mud, 
water, ashes, pumice stone and fire, from Monte Somma. 
with Pick and Under this terrific torrent, the city was 
shovel. buried many feet, and hermetically sealed 
for many centuries. About two-thirds of the doomed city 
has been excavated, and the work was being vigorously 
pushed when we were there. 

Every hour new discoveries were being made — new se- 
crets were being revealed. As already intimated, thou- 
sands of specimens, the fruits of excavation, have been 
placed in the Museum at Naples, ranging from splendid 
statuary, in marble and bronze, to the coins and jewelry, 
used by the rich in the most prosperous days of Pompeii. 

The work of the excavators unearthed magnificent pub- 
lic and private edifices. The Forum, the Basilica, the 
Temple of Jupiter, the Arch of Nero, the Street of the 
Tombs, the Temple of Apollo, the Forum Baths, the 
Temple of Fortune, The Tragic Theatre, the Temple of 
^Esculapius, the Comic Theatre, the Temple of Isis, the 
Amphitheatre — all public buildings — bear eloquent testi- 
mony to the splendor and magnificence of the old aris- 
tocratic city. 

The various temples show something of the character 
of their religion. It did not consist alone in the worship 
of the Roman deities, but also an important per cent, of 
the people were devotees of the gods of the Egyptians. 

Among the most important private buildings that we 



POMPEII. 



263 



saw were the Casa della Margherita Regina, the House 
of Sallust, the Villa of Diomede, and the House of the 
Labyrinth. In those fine dwellings, there were some ex- 
cellent mural paintings, and mosaics in the floors and pave- 
ments. Among those works of decorative art, were Cupid 
Scenes, Boys Making Wreaths, Chariot-Racing, Open-air 
Festivals, Vintage, Wine-Testing, Triumph of Bacchus, 
Hercules and Mercury, Mars and Venus, Diana and Ac- 
taeon, Ariadne and Theseus, and Hero and Leander. 

I was shown one dog kennel, or casa del canile. On 
many of the thresholds were the fine outline of Bruin, 
in mosaic, and on others, the warning, "Cave Canem," or 
beware of the dog, inlaid in marble. 

Some of the most recent excavations are Casa della 
Caccia, Casa di Ercole, and the House of Triptolemus. 
But the most interesting of the recently discovered places 
is the House of the Vettii. Here you have the best ex- 
ample of the great wealth and luxury of the city, yet un- 
earthed. In this house are some fine frescoes and carvings. 
Among the best of those are the fight between Pan and 
Cupid, the Infant Hercules strangling Snakes, the Slaugh- 
ter of Python, the Sacrilege of Agamemnon, Cupids at 
Work and Play, and Winged Maidens gathering Flowers. 
In the kitchens, we saw the stoves and cooking utensils, 
arranged, just as they had been placed, on that fateful 
day ! The furniture of the Tricliniums, or dining-rooms, 
was found undisturbed, as it was left on the afternoon of 
the fearful cataclysm ! 

In those homes and temples, many hundreds of human 
bodies have been found — some standing, some sitting, 
some eating and drinking, some at work, some at play. 
In one of the temples, two hundred bodies were excavated, 
the inference being, that they had fled thither, seeking 
the protection of the divinities, in the hour of their dire 
distress ! 



264 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



In the Museum, I saw the bread, pies, cakes, walnuts, 
chestnuts, and other nuts, and fruits, taken from the pan- 
tries of the houses that I have been describing. There, 
too, 1 saw the paints, table cutlery, cooking utensils, bits 
of clothing, wood-work, bronze work, petrified trees, jars, 
vases,, chariot, carriage and cartwheels, with the iron 
tires still on them, the bodies of men, women and children. 
All of this was intensely, awfully, interesting, but depress- 
ing in the extreme to the spirits ! One object there ap- 
pealed specially to me. It was the skeleton of a dog, 
caught in the awful attitude of the death agony. This I 
mention because it tells the dreadful story of agony and 
death, visited upon that wicked city, on that occasion ! 

The streets were paved with large blocks of stone. 
There were also large stepping stones, where the streets 
and sidewalks intersected. In the streets, deep ruts were 
cut by the wheels of the carts, carriages and wagons. On 
Cemetery street, there were many splendid ruins of cre- 
matories, tomb stones and sarcophagi. All of this exhib- 
ited a high degree of civilization and culture. Their wine- 
cellars showed that the people lived as only the rich 
could live. 

That was an eventful day. Such an afternoon I had 
never spent. We seemed to be almost profaning a city, 
made sacred by the visitation of an awful calamity ! We 
The silence were walking among the ashes of the dead ! 

of Centuries. "We were deciphering the history of the de- 
stroyed city, by interpreting the meagre traces which 
the deluge of fire and steam had left ! 

That man would be devoid of sentiment, and human 
sensibilities, who could look upon those sights unmoved, 
or without, in imagination, living over the scenes of the 
day of horror, when the proud city perished from the face 
of the earth! 



VESUVIUS. 



265 



Thursday morning, May the fifth, we were up early 
again, and, betimes, were in the tender, going ashore in a 
drenching rain. The artillery of heaven flashed, volleyed 
and thundered, as we were landing at the quay. 

At length, we were seated in carriages, and off for the 
Vesuvius station, at the foot of the mountain, five miles 
away. There we took the trolley to the end of the cog 

The Great roa d ; and thence were pushed up by an ad- 
voicano. ditional car with the proper attachments for 
the ratchet and pinion system. From there we took the 
funicular section, where we were drawn up by cable, at 
an angle of about fifteen degrees. When we left the 
station at the top, we had a hard, steep climb to the sum- 
mit of the cone. All the way up from the first station, 
on each side of the track, there were great fields of red, 
and greyish-black, lava. The last period of great activity 
was in the year 1900. 

As we slowly climbed the great mountain, the prospect 
became increasingly grand. To see the Bay of Naples 
at its best, one must ascend the mountain side. Never 
have I seen the coloring in the sea so exquisite. After the 
storm-clouds had rolled away, the atmosphere was left 
clear and pure. The perfect reflections of the bright blue 
sky, and the emerald green of the grass and trees on the 
mountain-sides, mingled to produce the most indescrib- 
ably beautiful tints in the waters of the unrivaled Bay. 
It was a rich treat to enjoy such a lovely scene. 

The government makes it obligatory, upon the visitor, 
to secure the service of a licensed guide. The steam was 
issuing through a thousand fissures in the volcanic cone. 
The wind was in a contrary direction, and we were almost 
suffocated by the sulphur-laden cloud of smoke and steam 
that enveloped us. 

On account of the violent storm that had raged during 



266 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



the early morning, the volcano was very unusually active 
— in the language of my guide, "very activa" — that day. 
As we went up the mountain, knee-deep through the 
cinders and scoriae, the detonations became more frequent 
and terrible. With each explosion, the situation looked 
more and more threatening. Accompanying each report, 
thousands of tons of molten lava would be thrown up, 
which would fall all about us with an unearthly hissing I 
As the lumps of red-hot lava fell with a dull thud, I 
hastened with Italian coins, to bury them in the soft 
scoriae with my walking stick. These I wanted for sou- 
venirs. There, I succeeded in burning up my tamarisk 
that I had cut on the banks of the Jordan, to bring to 
a ciimb to America. I persisted in going to the very 
the Crater. r j m G f the crater. My guide was terrified, 
but I urged him to remain about the summit, for three 
hours or more. At first, I could see nothing of the fire, 
for the steam that was blowing so thick, and enshrouding 
us all the time. Three times I went up to the mouth of 
the crater, and looked in, while the explosions were in- 
creasing in frequency and intensity. 

The third time, I climbed to a higher point. I lay 
stretched at full length, and crawled to the very rim of the 
crater. From that place I could look down into the fearful 
caldron below. The edge was so hot that I could not hold 
my hand upon it. I broke a piece of sulphur deposit from 
that place, and wrapped it in a piece of paper till it cooled. 

As I looked upon the red-hot mass, I was thrilled with 
horror! There are no words in the human vocabulary 
a Type of to adequately describe the terrible scene f 
inferno. There was a moment of quiet, and then I 
heard a fearful explosion, and felt the mountain quake 
and tremble. At the next instant, I saw a vast column 
of molten lava rise into the air for hundreds of feet. I 



VESUVIUS. 



267 



watched it, as ft ascended, and followed it till it began 
to fall. Much of it fell back into the crater, but as the 
wind was blowing in our direction, much" of it rained all 
around us, with an awful sound. It fell about us as the 
missiles of death ! My guide and I ran for our lives, and 
in spite of that, a huge lump of lava fell only a yard or 
two from my feet. After that eruption, I wanted nothing 
more. I could not get down from that cone one moment 
too soon. 

The memory of the sights of that day will be vivid 
to me, as long as I live. That night, as we were going 
from the wharf to the Grosser Kurfnerst, the bright light 
on the cloud of steam and smoke, at each eruption, showed 
their force and frequency. That pyrotechnic display was 
awfully glorious. I would not take anything for the ex- 
periences of that day, but those experiences I would not 
care to repeat. 

That night, at twelve o'clock, there was a terrific ex- 
a violent plosion, followed by a violent eruption, when 
upheavei. thirty feet of the rim of the crater, where I 
had stood, and from which I had broken the trophy of 
sulphur deposit, less than nine hours before, fell into the 
jaws of the mighty volcano! 

I sought my berth with a heart full of ineffable grati- 
tude to God for His gracious, His divine protection from 
the awful danger of which I had not, till then, been fully 
appreciative. 

At twelve noon, on Friday, May the sixth, our good 
ship lifted anchor and turned her prow toward southern 
France. 

Saturday morning, we encountered a storm. The waves 
dashed over the forecastle, and the wind whistled through 
the rigging, so that our progress was somewhat retarded. 



268 CRUISE TO THE ORIENT. 



About eight o'clock we passed the Island of Elba on the 
fight, and Corsica, with its snow-clad mountains, on the 
left. We were then in full view of the great Alps. From 
mat time on, we had one grand panorama of the glorious 
mountains, wrapped in a thick blanket of the eternal 
snow. 

At three p. m., just three hours late, we dropped anchor 
Goodbye to i n the snug, picturesque harbor of Ville- 
Piigrims. franche, where we bade farewall to our fel- 
low pilgrims to the Holy Land. 

Aften an enchanting drive, over the entire length of the 
The Comiche Upper and Lower Corniche Road — the finest 
Road. j n a \\ the W orld — our party of the "Daunt- 
less Four" returned to the historic City of Nice, and 
yielded to the attractions of "Nature's sweet restorer, 
balmy sleep." There we rested through the Sabbath Day, 
before beginning the two months tour through Western 
Continental Europe, and Great Britain and Ireland. 

In closing this series of letters, I am profoundly im- 
pressed with the fact that it is but a record of the good- 
ness and mercy of God, from the time of my leaving 
home, till I said goodbye to my companions, who had 
shared with me the unique experiences of the cruise to 
the Orient. "Surely the Lord is good to all, and His 
tender mercies are over all His works." "The Angel of 
the Lord encampeth round about them that fear Him, and 
delivereth them." 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Abana River, 99 

Acre, Plain of, 109 

Alexandria, 197 

Algiers, 51 

G-eronimo, 53 

Government, 57 

Nationalities, 56 

Anti-Lebanon, 99 

Appian Way, 253,255 

Athens, 67 

Ancient, 68, 72 

Mars Hill, 72, 75 

Modern, 73 

Ruins, 68 

Baalbek, 95 

Bazaars, 104 

Beeroth, 133 

Bethany, . 170 

Bethel, 131 

Bether, 192 

Bethlehem, . .. 191 

Church of Nativity,.... 190 

Bethsaida, 114 

Bethsaida Julias, 115 

Bethshemesh, 193 

Beyrout, 95, 107 

Black Sea, 85 

Bosporus, 84 

Brook Cherith, 137 

Brook Kishon, 109 

Bukaa Valley, 98 

Cairo, 228 

Museum of Antiquities,. 226 
Cana of Gililee, 110, 118 



PAGE 

Calvary, 179 

Cape Bon, 58 

Cape Farina, 57 

Capernaum, 114 

Capri, 238 

Carmel, 109 

Cayster Valley, 86 

Chorazin, 114 

Citta Vecchia, 60 

Cleopatra's iNeedles, 199 

Coele- Syria, 95 

Constantinople, 77 

Galata, 78 

Pera, 78 

Scutari, 78 

Stambul, 7 o 

Cyprus, 93 

Damascus, 101 

Dardanelles, 85 

Dead Sea, 143 

Dervishes, 101 

Desertas, 42 

Djamur, 5o 

Dothan, 123 

Ebal and Gerizim, 127 

Egypt, 203 

Government, 232 

Inhabitants, 230 

Israel, In 234 

Missions, 220, 235 

Name of, 229 

Seasons, 230 

Ekron, 193 

Elisha's Fountain, 139 



270 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Endor, 121 

Engannim, 123 

Ephesus, 86 

Esdraelon, 110 

Europa Point, 48 

Field of Boaz, 189 

Ford of Jordan, 145 

Franciscan Monks, 41 

Funchal, 34 

Galateas, 57 

Galilee, Ill 

Gethsemane, . . . . , 174 

Gezer, 193 

Gibeah, 134 

Gibraltar, 46 

Gideon s Fountcn, 122 

Gilboa, 122 

Gilgal, 141 

Golden H>rn, 81 

Good Samaritan Inn, .... 136 

Grosser Kurfuerst, 17, 20 

Ship's Log, 21 

Supplies, 22 

Watches, 27 

Haifa, 109 

Harosheth, 109 

Hattin, Ill, 116 

Heliopolis, 216 

Herculaneum, 239, 242 

Hermon, 98 

Jacob's Vvell, 128 

Jericho — 

Ancient, 13d 

Herod's, 137 

Modern, 140 

Jerusalem, 151 



Altar, Burnt Offering, . 164 



PAGE. 

Jerusalem — 

Gates, 153 

Hills, 155 

History, 152 

Holy Sepulchre, 180 

Pools and Cisterns, .... 161 

Walls, 153 

Jezreel, 122 

Joppa, 195 

Jordan River, 147 

Joseph's Tomb, 128 

Lebanon Range, 94 

Cedars of, 98 

Lebonah, 12s> 

Lydda, 194 

Madeira, 31 

Magdala, 114 

Malta, 59 

Marathon, 76 

Marmora, 7 1 

Memphis, 222 

Messina, Straits of, 237 

Mizpeh, 134 

Moslem Cr3ed, 30 

Women, 43 

Worship, 55 

Naboth Vineyard, 122 

Nain, 121 

Naples, 241, 261 

Bay of, 240 

Nazareth, 110, 118 

New York Harbor, 17 

Niagara, 11 

Nile, 203 

Delta, 200 

Overflow, 201 

In Marble, 218 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Nile— Sources, 202 

Nilometer, 205, 227 

Nob, 134 

Obelisks, Zl6, 217 

Olives, Mount of, 172 

Olympus, Range, 93 

Patmos, 91 

Pharos, 198 

Pillars of Hercules, ... .45, 47 

Piraeus, 67 

Pizgah, 136 

Plain of Sharon, 194 

Polycarp, 89 

Pompeii, 242, 261 

Pompey's Pillar, 19b 

Porto Santo, 43 

Pyramids, 207, 223 

Cheops, 207 

Step, 223 

Rachel's Tomb, 188 

Ramah, 133 

Rameses, 222, 226 

Rephaim, 188 

Rhoda, 206, 221 

Rhodes, 91 

Rome, 252, 257 

Catacombs, 254 

Colosseum, 250 

Great Forum, 249 

Museums — 

Capitoline, 253 

Statuary, 248 

Vatican, 248 

Pantheon, 250 

Pilate's Stair-Case, 256 

St. Paul's, 254 

St. Peter's, 244, 251 



271 

PAGE 

Rome — 

Sistine Chapel, 248 

Rosetta Stone, 233 

St. Paul's Bay, 65 

Sahara Desert, 209 

Sakkara, 223 

Samaria, 124 

Samaritan Synagogue,.... 126 

Shechem, 126 

Shiloh, 129 

Shunem, 120 

Sinjil, 130 

Smyrna, 90 

Sodom and Gomorrah,. . . . 143 

Spain, 48 

Sphinx, 2-13 

Temple of, 214 

Sweet Waters of Europe,. . 81 

Syehar, 128 

Syrian Religions and Mis- 
sions, 93 

Tabor, 119 

Taurus Range, 92 

Tiberias, 115 

Tombs of Apis Bulls, 224 

Tyre and Sidon, 95 

Vale 01 Siddim, ...... 143, 149 

Valetta, 62 

Valley of Aijalon 194 

Valley of Roses, 192 

Valley of Sorek, 193 

Vesuvius, 238, 265 

Water Clock, 247 

Waters of Merom, 147 

Wilderness of Judea, .... 136 

World's S. S. Convention,. 182 



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